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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

Chap._______ Copyright No._ j 

i 

Shelf_*_X:t : 

-— ! 


UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 




















T H E 

CORNICE WORK 
MANUAL 


AN EXPOSITION OF CORNICE WORK IN ALL ITS 

BRANCHES 


Compiled from Files of THE AMERICAN ARTISAN 

— By — 

SIDNEY P. JOHNSTON. 

»I ■■' ’ v ’ v - 

— For — 

AEE IN ANY WAY INTERESTED IN THE PRACTICAL 

WORKING OF SHEET METAL. 


1900 

The American Artisan Press, 
69 Dearborn Street, 
Chicago. 






TWO COPIES received. 

Library cr'C 6 Rgret% 

, Office o i tI b« 

FEB 1 - 1900 • 

Register of Copyrlgfef* 




Entered according to Act of Congress in 
the year 1900, by 

DANIEL STERN, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, 
at Washington, D. C. 



S&GONB 03PY, 



h b- r X-. \ ^ DC7 


l 



PREFACE. 


Modern architecture has witnessed no change mo're important than 
the general substitution of metal for wood in building construction. 
The worker in wood is less in evidence than formerly in the erection of 
residences and stores, while his brother worker in sheet metals is find¬ 
ing his field constantly widening. As evidence of this I need only cite 
the steady growth of the sheet metal cornice trade which less than two 
score years ago was of very insignificant proportions, but is to-day one 
of the most important of the building trades. 

This branch of work presents exceptional chances to the clever 
mechanic, as there is a general demand for workmen in this line in all 
sections of the country, and the industry is one capable of wide 
development, there being many places where the practical sheet metal 
cornice worker can establish a business of considerable dimensions with 
less capital and labor of introduction than is necessary in most other lines. 

At the same time the work is of a character demanding a thorough 
technical acquaintance with its various details, an ability to draw the 
various complicated patterns that are necessary, and a familiarity with 
the cost of doing a given work that will enable the cornice worker to 
make an estimate fully covering all constructional details. 

It is passing strange that a field in which there is so keen a demand 
for practical information should have been so systematically neglected 
by technical writers. The only work treating of the subject that has 
ever appeared, to the best of my knowledge, was issued nearly a score 
of years ago before the rise of the present demand for bizarre and 



PREFACE. 


grotesque designs which although familiar to the trade to-day are 
entirely alien to the run of patterns prevalent in the early eighties. 

That there is a field for a book of the character of this one is amply 
proven by the many calls that have been made by practical sheet metal 
workers for a book giving a systematic and progressive course of 
instruction in the subject. I have striven to the best of my ability to 
produce a work of practical value on this subject, that would furnish 
answers to the multifarious questions arising in the daily work of 
cornice workers. 

It is my modest hope that this book may cover its chosen field in 
a creditable manner, and prove an acceptable workshop companion for 
mechanics whose needs in this line have been up to the present strangely 
neglected by technical writers. 

The Compiler. 

Chicago, III., Jan. 1900. 


CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

CHAPTER I. 

The Cutter’s Bench . i 

. CHAPTER II. 

Cutters’ Tooes. 3 

CHAPTER III. 

Drawing Tools and Angles. 7 

CHAPTER IV. 

The Entablature. 10 

CHAPTER V. 

The Reading op Drawings. 13 

CHAPTER VI. 

The Measuring of Cornices. 17 

CHAPTER VII. 

Estimating .. 20 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Right Angle Miter Pattern. 23 

CHAPTER IX. 

Bracket Patterns. 28 

CHAPTER X. 

Patterns for Panel Sections. 33 

CHAPTER XI. 

Right-Angle Return Miter Patterns. 35 

CHAPTER XII. 

Patterns of a Pediment and Their Development. 39 















contents. 


pa6 E- 


4 

CHAPTER XIII. 

The Patterns for a Segmental Section of a Pediment .... 44 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Details and Patterns for a Finial. 5 l 

CHAPTER XV. 

Bracings and Fastenings of Cornices to Buildings. 56 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Staging and Scaffolding for Cornice Work. 64 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Ornament Stamping Machine. 69 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

The Management of Ropes and Hoisting Tackle. 73 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Plan and Details of a Gable and Horizontal Cornice. ... 83 

CHAPTER XX. 

Details of Slating and Slaters’ Tools. 105 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Details for Horizontal and Raking Miter Patterns. 113 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Development of Details and Patterns of the Turrets. ... 135 









CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


1 


I. 

THE CUTTERS BEHCH- 

The present development of the cornice trade and particular^ its tre¬ 
mendous increase, in volume of business and work done, the variety of de¬ 
signs which the present rage for bizarre and grotesque designs has brought 
out, most of them being out of the usual run as found in some of the so- 
called pattern books now on the market; the entire absence of a system¬ 
atic and progressive course of instruction on this subject, embracing at once 
all the different parts and branches of the cornice business, each one in de- 



Fig.l 


ail, such as estimating, laying out or, as commonly designated in the shop, 
as cutting, complete table of weights, cost of material and time required 
in getting out work, descriptions of the various kinds of machinery used in 
cornice shops, their manipulation to the best advantage; the description 
and manner of working circular work, the best method and different ways 
of getting out work and its putting up on buildings, staging, scaffolding, 
and the economical handling of men on outside work—in fact on most of 
these subjects there being none, or at least very little reliable information, 
the following series of articles having been prepared to meet this want. 

One of the first requisite appliances or tools needed in every comice 
shop is a drawing table or cutter’s bench. The size and general arrange¬ 
ment of the same I leave to the judgment and taste of the person using 
it. As the location and amount of space in different shops to be devoted 
to the location of the cutter’s bench varies and sometimes other considera¬ 
tions have to be taken into account, this would render it out of the ques¬ 
tion to make the size of the table by a fixed rule to meet all cases, but a 
good point to follow is to have it as large as possible. The most con¬ 
venient size for work is 50 inches wide by 12 to 15 feet long. 
The wood to make same is of white pine, 1 inch stuff being the thickness 
of material usually employed, but a table of 1£ or 1J inch would be far 
preferable by reason of greater strength and greater amount of material for 
dressing the surface when it becomes rough from the use of prick punch. 
Fig. 1 shows the general manner of construction of a board as de. 







2 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 




scribed in the foregoing. The boards of which the table is made ought not 
to exceed 8 inches in width, glued together and cleated, as Fig. 1 shows on 





















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


3 


the bottom, or the same may be mortised and shaped as in Fig. 5 . In some 
cases the boards are grooved underneath, lengthwise, as Fig. 6 shows. It is 
understood, of course, that the size and ends are to be parallel to each op¬ 
posite edge. A stiff band of iron is sometimes fastened to the outer edge 
to keep the same true and free from wear. 



The standard as Fig. 2 gives is the most convenient shape in use. This 
is also made of pine wood. The Figures 3 and 4 gives the details of its 
construction. Make the head piece 2 inches thick by 5 inches deep, the 
legs out of 1^ inch thick and 5 inch wide stuff; when complete about 16 
inches apart at the bottom. The cleats, as shown on the side of legs of 
standards, are to be fastened with screws, while the shorter ones are more 
tised, as the drawing shows. The height of the standards, of which there 
are two, may be regulated to suit the convenience of the person using the 
table, the usual height being from 36 to 42 inches. 


II. 


GUTTER’S TOOLiS. 

The most important mechanic in cornice shops generally is the cutter, 
on whom not only the work of drawing, cutting and getting out all patterns 
used for correct fitting and putting work together in the shop depends, but 
also, particularly in smaller shops, the duties of foreman both inside the 
shop, where the work is erected and made ready, and on the outside the 
superintending, the putting up of work and general management of the work¬ 
ingmen. The figuring and estimating in most shops is also done by him. 
In larger establishments his duties, of course, more strictly conform to 
what the name cutter in a cornice shop implies, namely, the getting out and 
cutting of patterns from scale drawings, sketches and details, etc., as furn¬ 
ished by architects, to full-size patterns or templates as the work on hand 






















4 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


demands. If the cutter, besides the ability to do the work implied in the 
foregoing, has also a good knowledge of the principles of designing which 
enter into the general construction of cornice work, he will find it of great 
assistance and value as an aid in the getting up of substitute drawings or in 
altering architects’ drawings, as it often happens that changes are demanded 



sometimes necessitating a partial or even a wholly new design of the work 
in hand. Bear this in mind, that in no branch is it so often the case that 
it is more expedient to sacrifice utility to beauty or vice versa , than in the 
cutter’s branch. 

In the following I will give a list of tools which are generally found 
most useful for a cutter’s outfit. This does not imply that each and every 
one of the different tools is indispensable. The amount and quality of tools 
one has or uses is largely a matter of individual choice, some cutters in the 
larger establishments having even a larger number of tools than here enu¬ 
merated. I would add that they are all of the best quality, finish and make. 
The best course to follow is: When procuring tools, no matter how few, get 
them of a good grade, as a good tool is the cheapest in the long run and is 
always a more satisfactory implement to work with than an inferior and 
poorly made one. It is understood that this list is merely to indicate what 
is most desirable to have at the beginning; when one becomes more pro¬ 
ficient and expert, fewer tools than here given will nerhaps amply suffice. 












































































































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


5 


CORNICE CUTTERS’ TOOLS. 

Tee Squares, 2, 4 and 6 feet long one each, one steel or wooden straight 
edge, one 3 foot Rule. 

One 2 foot Rule. 

Scale Rules, i, 3-16, A, J, i, J and 1 in. 

One Steel Square, nickel pfatcd. 

Protractor Scale, horn or brass. 

One Perspective Lineal, one bevel angle. 

One Set Beam Compasses. 

One Set Trammel Points with pencil attachment. 

Rubber Erasers. 

j Doz. Med. Hard Lead Pencils. 

J “ Red Marking Crayons. 

} “ Blue 

One Doz. Thumb Tacks. 

One Set Dividers. 

Beam Compasses with needle points, inking pen and lengthening bar. 
Inking Pens. 

One Set of Angles. 

Several Marking Curves. 

Roll of Manilla Drawing Paper. 

TOOLS FOR MARKING ON IRON. 

Two Angles, one 30 and 60 degrees, one of 45 degrees. 

Several Good Marking Awls. 

Prick Punches. 

Weights for weighing down patterns on table. 

Small Mallet or Hammer for tapping prick punch. 

One Pair Straight-Handled Shears, large. 

small, commonly called platers’ shears. 

“ “ Circular Shears. 

“ “ Hawk’s Bill Shears. 

“ “ Shears, called roofers’ shears. 

One Standard Wire Gauge. 

The above list embraces as complete an assortment of tools as the 
cutter will probably ever be called on to use in any case in practice. The 
following gives a more detailed description of the most used and important 
tools. 

Tee squares should be perfectly true and straight every way; the head 
on the smaller ones it would be well to have fixed stationary, but for the 
larger sizes a partial swivel head is desirable. The choice of material is 
merely a question of how much a person cares to expend for one, the kinds 
made of beech or maple wood being the cheaper grades; higher priced 
squares are made of different kinds of wood glued together—mahogany, 
hard rubber, steel, etc. Fig. 7 gives a tee square with a partial swiveled 
head. 

A steel straight edge is the preferable one for use in marking lines on 


6 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


iron, but its use for drawing lines on paper is rather heavy, so that a wooden 
straight edge would be the most convenient kind for this purpose. Absolute 
correctness in every way is the quality demanded in this tool. 

Almost every mechanic has a 2 and also a 3-foot rule. These need no 
particular description. 






Scale rules are divided into the various subdivisions of feet most com¬ 
monly used by architects on drawings. The scales are marked on the vari¬ 
ous surfaces of the rule as Fig. 8 shows. Fig. 8 gives a very convenient 
tool of this kind for ready use. It is divided into J, ^ and 1 inch to the 
foot. Other styles may be selected, of which there are a great variety, to 
suit the fancy or taste of the purchaser. 

The common 2 foot square is also a tool found in any mechanic’s kit, 
the nickel-plated square being the neatest and also the most durable kind, 









































































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


1 


A very handy tool for the cutter’s use is a square made of wood, about the 
size of an ordinary steel square; its lightness and ease of handling make it 
a great favorite with many cutters. 

Protractor scales, sometimes called degree scales, are made of horn, 
brass, German silver, etc. This tool is used to find the various degrees of 
circles, angles for drawing polygons, etc. Fig. 9 shows a protractor scale 
made of metal. The circle divided into 360 degrees, these divided into 
minutes, and these again divided into seconds are shown on some of these 
scales, that is on some of the more expensive kinds. The protractor shown 
*n Fig. 9 being a semicircle shows 180 degrees. The finer or more minute 
subdivisions rarely being used by a cutter, a kind as shown by Fig. 9 will 
answer all practical purposes. 

A pair of dividers made of wood, with the end of one leg arranged to 
hold a pencil or crayon point, wfil be found to be a very convenient tool, 
particularly for large work. 

The perspective lineal is a very useful tool, especially when new de¬ 
signs are prepared, as sometimes perspective drawings are made to show 
a view of the work when finished. 

The ordinary bevel can be bought in any hardware store. 

The Figures 10 and 11 give a pair of beam compasses. On large work, 
curves, circles, etc., for precise and accurate work they are the best. Inking 
and pencil point attachments are provided with this tool, it is very light and 
easily handled, but is almost too delicate to be used on rough work, such as 
marking on iron, etc. 

The heavier and stronger tool usually used for the last purpose named 
are the trammels; the kind with a lead pencil attachment is a very handy 

tool. 


III. 

DHAUJUHO TOOLiS AND AMGLiHS. 

Among the most delicate and at the same time most used drawing 
tools are the set of dividers and compasses, as shown by Figs. 20, 21, 22 
and 23. These tools should be of the best quality one is able to procure. 
A good tool of this kind always gives the best satisfaction and will, with 
care, last a lifetime. Drawing curves, or sweeps, such as come most handy 
for drawing ovals, parabolic and irregular curves, are also very desirable. 
Angles as shown by Figs. 12, 13, 14 and 15, in Article II, are the most 
commonly used. These are made of beech, pear, maple wood, hard rub¬ 
ber, metal and amber, the latter material being especially clean, strong 



8 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


and transparent. Fig. 15, Article II, gives an equilateral triangle, a handy 
aad much-used angle. The respective degrees of the different sides of all 
the angles are given in the drawings. Some of the most useful angles in 
a cornice shop drawing room are the angles shown in Fig. 17, Article II. 
They form respectively the angles of the most used geometrical figures in 
cornice work, such as 

Pentagon, or 5 sided polygon. 

Hexagon, “ 6 

Octagon, “ 8 

Decagon, “ 10 “ 

The various angles and degrees that the sides of these polygons have 
to each other are fully shown in drawing Fig. 17, Article II. Fig. 18, Arti¬ 
cle II, shows a quarter of an octagon inscribed in a circle and gives the 
method to obtain the degrees of the angles as shown by Fig. 17. A more 
detailed description will be given further on. Fig. 19, Article II, gives a pretty 
shape for a weight to hold paper patterns down on the iron while pricking 



FIG. 20 FIG. 21 FIG. 22 


points through the paper pattern on to the iron. A tin or iron body in the 
shape of a frustum of a cone is made, as drawing shows, double seam on 
bottom. Fill the body full of sand: then put on cover, to which a. ring has 
been fastened, as Fig. 19 shows. The top may either be burred and sol¬ 
dered onto the body, or it may be burred and seamed onto the tody as 
suits the maker. Several of these weights are used. 

Good lead pencils, of a medium grade of hardness, and rubber erasers 
are indispensable as a matter of course. 

Red, blue and black marking crayons are used by many cutters; when 
on complicated work, a great many different sets of lines are used. To fa¬ 
cilitate the ready finding of some particular set of lines, they sometimes touch 
Up the desired lines with the crayons, to color as suits their fancy. 








CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


9 


Thumb tacks which have their pins screwed into the head, are the 
best; smooth, rounding heads are better than the sharp-cornered, project¬ 
ing heads. 

The different styles and kinds of shears as given in the list of tools are 
generally used for this work. Prices and full descriptions can be found in 
almost all catalogues of tinners’ tool supply houses. A pair of 6 -inch and 
also a pair of 12-inch wing dividers are useful. A standard wire gauge, of 
any style or pattern, is indispensable. 

The foregoing is, in brief, a condensed description of the tools that 
are most used for the purposes indicated. Those who want a more elaborate 
treatise on the various kinds of drawing tools I would refer to the numer¬ 
ous books, pamphlets and essays published on this subject; as I regard it 
out of the province of these papers to give any more space than what is ab¬ 
solutely necessary for the practical understanding of the various tools and 
their use as far as is required in the cornice shop. 

The following table gives some of the properties of the first twelve 
regular polygons on a plane surface: 

Take.the Fig. 18, Article II; the circumferential straight lines which 
make two sides or one-quarter of a regular octagon or eight-sided polygon. 
Now from point C, or center, the line that cuts through the point where the 
two circumferential straight lines meet, thus divide the quarter into 
eights or into two isosceles triangles. Assuming the point C as center, or 
apex, the lines diverge from each other at an angle of 45° in an octagonal 
figure; in a hexagonal angle, 60°, etc., as the table fully gives. The 
foregoing is the central figure. The polygon angle is formed by the junc¬ 
tion of any two circumferential lines of any regular polygon. The respective 
degrees are given in column three. Taking either end of the 



FIG. 23 


circumferential lines of any regular polygon where it forms 
8 , junction with either one of the lines leading from its extreme ends to the 

































10 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


center of the regular polygon of which the circumferential line is a denomi¬ 
native part, the following angles will occur as set forth in the table, column 
four, and we will call them the degrees of the base angles. The Figures 17 
and 18, Article II, fully show how these tables are applied. The areas of 
all the regular polygons are figured by triangulation. 


Names of 
Polygon. 

x\ UMBEIl 

OF 

Sides. 

Central 

Angle. 

Polygon 

Angle. 

Base 

Angles. 

Triangle. 

3 

120° 

60° 

30° 

Square. 

4 

90° 

90° 

45° 

Pentagon . 

5 

72° 

108° 

54° 

Hexagon. 

6 

' 60° 

120° 

00° 

Heptagon. 

7 

51° 43' 

128° 17' 

04 2-7° 

Octagon. 

8 

45° 

135° 

67 1-2° 

Nonagon . 

9 

40° 

140° 

70° 

Decagon.. 

10 

36° 

144° 

72° 

Undecagon. 

11 

32° 13' 

147° 47' 

73 7-1° 

Dodecagon. 

12 

30° 

150° 

75°1 


Probably one of the most bandy angles to the cutter is the Tret angle, 
Fig. 15, Article II. With it any angle that is a multiple of 15° can be 
plotted or measured in connection with the tee square. It has, as the name 
implies, four angles, 90°, 60°, 75°, and 135°. By reversing, the an¬ 
gles 30° x 60°, 45° x 45° and 15° x 75° may be drawn. With it an 
easy division of the circle into 24 equal parts can be made. This 
angle can be used conveniently in the three different systems of insometrical 
drawing in which the. axial horizontals are represented respectively at 0° 
and 00° and 80° and 30° and at 15° and 45°. This result has hitherto been 
accomplished only by the use of special axonometrical triangles. 


1Y. 

THE ENTABLATURE. 

In this paper I give, Fig. 24, the entablature, or, as generally termed 
among architectural workers and the building trades, the cornice. Strictly 
speaking the upper division of the entablature is the cornice proper, em¬ 
bracing all the different parts from the crown molding to the dentil mold¬ 
ing. The second division, or frieze, embraces from the dentil molding to 
the foot molding, or third division, the architrave. In the trade, at the 
present time, the entire structure described above is termed the cornice. 
























CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


11 


The drawing, Fig. 24, as given, is somewhat of a variation from a pure 
classical design to conform to the styles prevailing at the present day, A 






























































































12 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


strictly correct proportioned design as laid down by the well-known laws 
and rules of the old schools I deem as rather too severe and plain to satisfy 
the taste of the present time. A description of the different parts that con¬ 
stitute a complete cornice is given as follows: 

The crown molding, letter C, is the top front projecting part of the 
cornice; the facia, F, is also embraced in the crown molding. Directly 
underneath the facia, which is a flat band or member of the cornice, a hori¬ 
zontal member, the ceiling, or bottom of the cornice, occurs. This is called 
the planceer. In well-made cornices the face of the facia band is projected 
somewhat lower than the horizontal surface of the planceer, thus forming 
a drip, letters P and d, to prevent the water dropping on other parts of 
the cornice. Letters B M, M C, M M, D B and D M are termed the bed 
moldings, embracing the different moldings, as the bed, modillion and 
dentil moldings, and also the modillion and dentil courses, these latter two 
being the flat part, M C and D B, and these form the flat surfaces to which 
the modillion brackets, or ornaments, and also the dentil blocks, are fas¬ 
tened. The head molds or blocks of the modillion brackets finish up 
against the bed mold proper, B M, and also up against the planceer under 
the crown molding. 

The modillion bracket has this distinguishing feature from the regular 
bracket that it has its greatest length horizontally, while the regular brack¬ 
et has it from top to bottom. In the Fig. 24 no modillion brackets are 
shown, to avoid confusion and overloading this design, but I will give this 
matter ample consideration farther on. Dentil blocks are generally made 
as the drawings demand which the cornice maker works from. In Fig. 24 
the dentil mold is of a larger size than is strictly proportionate in the severe 
classical form, but is here simply given as a modification. 

The frieze or panel section of the cornice is the one on which generally 
the most ornamentation is put, every architect having his own favorite de¬ 
signs, hence the great variety met with in cornice work. Fig. 24 gives 
a paneled frieze back. The panel is sunk from the stile so that it lies 
flat to the wall line at P A. The lower part or architrave, commonly 
called foot mold, string mold, etc., needs no very detailed description. 
It will be seen that in the lower end of same a drip is formed by the way 
the design shows, and also a flange which projects into the brickwork. 

The projection of a bracket, letters B B, is shown by dotted lines. 
Also by letters T T, H B; a truss, or end block, and also a head block and 
stop block are shown, the head block and truss forming the end finish of a 
cornice. In future papers these details will be more fully dealt with. 

The base of truss extends,as will be observed,some distance below the drip 
of the foot molding, showing six different kinds of curves. It would be a very 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


13 


profitable exercise for the student to take this drawing and draw to differ¬ 
ent scales, say ^ in., ^ in., or 1 inch to the foot. After it has been gone 
over two or ihree times in this way a good understanding of the names 
and positions of all the different parts of a cornice will have been obtained. 
The student may also change the design to suit his fancy. This gives ex¬ 
cellent practice, and as a consequent result, greater proficiency. A good 
rule to follow is to make all drawings precisely, and whatever scale is used 
make all the work strictly conform to the same. The term lintel cor¬ 
nice is generally apphed to a cornice over the first story, such as store 
front openings, etc. Hip, gable and ridge moldings are used on the parts 
of buildings as their names imply. Pediments are of various forms, an¬ 
gular, broken, segmental, etc., and are used to cap windows and doors, and 
also in designs of cornices. 

Of miters, which means a joining of two parts at any angle, there are 
a number, such as square, butt, gable, raking, inside and outside miters; 
also angle miters of various degrees and directions. Numerous examples 
will be introduced in the problems as we proceed. 

As the cutting and laying out of patterns for cornice work is based on 
geometry, and particularly on the branch designated descriptive geometry, 
I will, from time to time, as occasion demands, give the principles of this 
branch, as the problem under consideration requires. It would be well 
for the beginner to procure a work on plane geometry, as the terms, names, 
and in fact, the entire vocabulary used to designate the elementary figures 
and definitions as used in the first steps, tending to a clear understanding 
of the principles of pattern cutting, are contained therein. The price of 
such a book is merely nominal. 


V. 


TfiB HEADING OF DHflWlflGS. 

In this article I give the drawings of a complete cornice of a 24' 
front, as in Fig. 25. Fig. 27 gives the profile or end elevation of 
same. Fig. 28 gives a section through A. A. of Fig. 25. Fig. 29 gives a 
drawing of the finial on top of the pediment. 

We will first discuss the matter of reading these drawings, so that 
when the figuring is to be done, every detail is fully understood. The 
front elevation is drawn to the scale of 3-16" to the foot, meaning that 
every item and detail is drawn to that scale in every particular, in this fig- 



14 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


nre, No. 25. This view represents how the cornice looks from the front 
only, and gives the position of every member of the entire structure, from 
that point of view. From this view we see that there are in the cornice 
section proper four outside and two inside miters, embracing the deck 
mold, deck, crown molding, fascia, and also the planceer. The dentil 
course and also the panel of the frieze section are straight from end to 
end, that is, there are no miters or outward projections in the main body 



of this part. In the foot molding there are four projecting members, making 
eight outside, and six inside miters for this section. Four corbel blocks 
are shown under the four projecting parts of the foot mold. Fourteen 
brackets are shown; six of these are projected outward three inches more 
than the others, four on each side or end. By referring to Fig. 27, their 
Relative positions to each other are shown at A. A'. 
































































































































































































































































































































Cornice work manual 


i5 


The panel section has sunk frieze pieces or panels. The center pieces 
of same are of crimped iron, or as some term them, washboard panels. 

The pediment or crowning structure of the cornice gives every de¬ 
tail plainly from the base of same to the paneled face and the curved 
molding, also the position of the finial and the ornaments on top. 

The Fig. 27 gives the projection of Fig. 25, showing the relative posi¬ 
tions of all the parts of the cornice, looking afc same from one end, or the 
end elevation, also called profile of the cornice; B and A. A', are brackets; 
C are dental blocks; from D to E, is the cornice proper, embracing crown 



molding, fascia and bed molding; F is dentil course. Below the above, H 
is the sunk frieze panel; K. and K.' show the positions of both the straight 
and projecting parts of the foot mold; X. X' the dotted line, gives the pro¬ 
file of the ends of the cornice. 

























16 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


Fig. 28 gives a sectional view of pediment cut at A. A'. in Fig. 25. 
The dotted lines give end elevations of same. 

Fig. 29 gives a detail drawing of finial, drawn to the scale of to 
the foot. 




Fig. 28 


It may be well here to remark that the six brackets in the center of 
the cornice are in profile, as the line A' gives the lower section of same 
conforming to the line A, as is fully shown. Fig. 28 gives the plan of 
cornice: A gives the extreme outer edge of the crown molding, B is the 
edge of the extreme outer edge of foot molding, D is outside line of build¬ 
ing wall and C is the inner one, that is the line farthest away from the 
cornice; letters C show the correct positions of all the brackets, S S' shows 
the ends of cornice extending back to the inside face of wall, X X ; shows 
position of base of pediment. 

The front and plan are 8-16" to the foot scale, Figs. 25 and 26. The 
side elevation is J" to the foot, Fig. 27. 

The foregoing gives all that is necessary for a clear understanding of 
the plans, or as commonly termed, the reading of the plans and drawings. 





















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


17 


r» 

* 

VI. 

TfiE JVLEASllpIpG Op COppICES. 

After one is able to read a set of drawings so that every part and detail 
is fully understood in regard to its proper position and its relation to all 
the other parts of the entire structure, various sizes and measures of all the 
parts can then be ascertained for the purpose of the preliminary estimating 
in any of the following ways. 

I will first give a snap method as used by some, for rough calculations; 
(see Figs. 25 and 27, Article V, giving the front and profile of the cornice 
under consideration): First get the entire length of front including the end 
turns and all of the miters of the cornice. Commence at the extreme end of 
the crowr. molding as at 1 to 2 of Fig. 26, Article V; this distance measures 
3 ' 6", from 2 to 3 =7' 9", from 3 to 4 including the 4 miters 11", from 4 
to 5 = 7 7 9", from 5 to 6 — O' 6". Total of the entire extreme edge of 
the crown molding is 33' 6". The length of the foot molding is 30', 
including all the miters and turns occurring in the same. 

The length of the panel section, dentil course, etc., is 26' long, including 
the two turns for the ends, as line L, 7 and 8 of Fig. 26, Article V, shows. 
The Fig. 27, Article V, gives for stretch out of crown molding of the center 
projection from 1 to 5 6' 3^", and for the end sections of same each 5' 
9J". For the center course from 5 to 6 stretch-out is 2' 3", for stretch-out 
of foot molding 20" on an average. It will require 6 square ft. of iron 
for each bracket; as there are 14 brackets, it will take 84 square ft. of iron 
for them. We will take the average for the crown molding as 6' for 
stretch-out, which makes 33' 6 ' X 6' = 201 square ft, of iron for same. 
The stretch-out for the panel, dentil or center course being 2' 3" x 26' = 
58 square ft. and 6 square ft. for this portion. The foot molding has a 
stretch-out of 20" x 30' = 50 square ft. for same. The strip from 7 to 
8 and C to D is to be covered also; the same is 24' by 1'. The entire total 
for cornice so far is as follows: 


For brackets.84 sq. ft. 

For crown molding.201 sq. ft. 

For panel course.58^ sq. ft. 

For foot molding.50 sq. ft. 

For strip over walls. 24 sq. ft. 

t 


Total 


417J sq. ft. 









18 


cornice Wore Manual 


The surface of the pediment is 2' in width and 9 ; in length; 5' is the 
height; this gives 2' x 9 = 18 x 5 = 90 sq. ft.; the top of the pediment is 
11' x 2' = 22 sq. ft. 22 + 90 = 112 sq. ft. of iron for entire pediment. 
This makes the entire total of the surface by the method used 112 -f 417 = 
529 sq. ft. of iron for the cornice. This in brief is about as near as the aver¬ 
age cornice maker comes to the actual amount of material really used. 
Although I may say that in the amount as given above if say about 10 sq. ft. 
are added to the same for waste in the cutting, or the entire total is taken 
at 539 sq. ft. a rather high margin for safety is taken; that is, in my estima¬ 
tion, the figures as given call for somewhat more material than will 
actually be used for the entire structure. And as a consequence no fear 
need be entertained that the estimate is too low in this respect. 

In establishments where a great amount of this work is done and 
has been done, if any data is kept for this purpose of work that has 
been gotten out, it becomes an easy matter to get very nearly correct 
estimates of almost any kind of designs that come near to work that has 
already been done in the shop. This in particular applies to larger 
shops. In smaller shops where perhaps each and every cornice differs 
radically in its most important parts from any other cornice previously done 
in the shop the greatest care and accuracy are required to get the correct 
amount of material used on the work one is figuring on in order to be able to 
compete with other shops and so as not to be too high nor too low in one’s 
estimate. Of course, the more a person does of this work the more profi¬ 
cient he becomes. A good plan for the student would be to get a set of 
different designs, and study this branch and practice until he becomes 
thoroughly familiar with every detail of it. 

The best way for absolute correctness is of course to take a design of 
any cornice; as for instance the design submitted in Fig. 25, Article Y 
First get the general dimension as to its length, height, projection and 
other details in connection therewith. The height of cornice or its depth 
is 5', its projection out from the face of the wall is 31 in. and the turns at 
ends extend back from face of wall 12, in. as plan Fig. 26, Article V shows. 
The pediment is 4 ft. 8in. high from its base to top of its deck, its extrem e 
length horizontally at base is 8' 9", and at the extreme points of its curved 
deck it is 9 ft. 9 in; its deck is 2 ft. wide. Now go over carefully each detail 
note them down, as the number of brackets, dentil blocks, details of the sunj^ 
panels, how many projections or miters there are in the foot-molding and 
also in the crown molding; note down the number and style of the orna¬ 
ments on brackets. Follow the same general course in regard to the 
details of the pediment; note each peculiarity of the different members and 
measure them correctly as to their girth and length, as the drawings fully 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


id 


show. In fact, get the correct measure of every detail of the entire work, 
and if done so and the total is footed correctly, the result as a consequence 
is that no possible mistake can be made in the estimate of material used. 

The above is the safe way, although somewhat more tedious than by a snap 
method. 

- \ 

The following tables are useful in figuring, estimating, etc. In the 
table of weights given for copper, allowance must be made for the varia¬ 
tion in the ( weights of different brands of copper. The table as given 
is correct enough to approximate the weight of any certain’gauge that is 
likely to be used in calculation. A good plan is to get a certain brand, 
ascertain the correct weight, and use the figure as found, if differing from 
tyiose as given in the table. 

COPPER. 

Sizes of sheets generally used: 


14" x 48" 30" x 60" 48" X 72" 


B. W. G. 

Per Sq Ft. 

B. W. G. 

Per Sq. Ft. 

B. W. G. 

s 

Per Sq. Ft. 

No. 10 

100 oz. 

No. 16 

46 oz. 

No. 22 

23 oz. 

“ 11 

90 “ 

“ 17 

42 ” 

“ 23 

20 “ 

“12 

80 ” 

“ 18 

36 “ 

“ 24 

18 “ 

“ 13 

70 ” 

“ 19 

32 “ 

“ 25 

16 “ 

“ 14 

60 “ 

“ 20 

29 “ 

“ 26 

15 “ 

“15 

54 “ 

“ 21 

26 “ 

" 27 

14 “ 


The following gives a list of the sizes of bar iron mostly used for 
braces, stays, lookouts, etc., on cornices: 

BAR IRON. 


Width. 

Tm _ 

Weight Per Lineal 
Foot. 

V 

i" 

Ks" 

3.158 lb. 

w 

3 684 “ 

Vs” 

.421 “ 

ih" 

Vs 

.5 26 “ 

IV' 

3-16" 

.789 “ 

1 x 4 

*4" 

1 052 ” 

1 3 s" 

1 V' 

3 16" 

.868 “ 

3-16" 

.947 “ 

iy 2 " 

1 4" 

1.2 63 “ 

l 3 A" 

J 4" 

1.474 “ 

1U" 

2" 

5-16" 

1.842 “ 

1 4" 

1.684 “ 

2" 

%" 

2 538 “ 

2 V' 

5-16" 

3 e" 

2.631 “ 

3" 

3.789 “ 




























20 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


SHEET ZINC. 

Size of sheets 36"x84". 


Number. 

Thickness. 

Weight Per Square 
Foot. 

5 

0.0039 

0.4117 lb. 

6 

0.0132 

04792 “ 

7 

0.0150 

0.5468 “ 

8 

0.0169 

0 6144 “ 

9 

00187 

0.6820 “ 

10 

0.0224 

0.8172 “ 

11 

0.0261 

0.9534 “ 

12 

0.0298 

1.0875 “ 

13 

0.0336 

1.2227 “ 

14 

0.0373 

1.3579 “ 

15 

0.0410 

1.49 30 “ 

16 

0.0447 

1.6282 ” 

17 

0.0521 

1.8986 “ 

18 

0.0596 

2.1689 “ 

19 

0.0670 

2.4393 “ 

20 

0 0744 

2.7096 “ 


♦ 


VII. 

HSTI^VIflTIflG. 

The correct estimating in the first stages of the work, such as the read¬ 
ing of plans, measuring of the surfaces of work and the estimating of the 
time it may take to do the job on hand, and other incidental items met 
with in the getting out of the same, can only be acquired by cornice men 
after long, careful and close study and observation. The following hints 
will, in a measure, supply what some may lack in these important qualifica¬ 
tions : 

When the amount of iron is determined that it will take to do a cer¬ 
tain job of cornice work, the next question that presents itself is how much 
time and labor will it take to do the work. There are almost as many ways 
employed to arrive at the result sought for as there are ways of doing the 
work itself. Some guess at the time, comparing the work under considera¬ 
tion to that of similar character and design done before. Knowing of 
course the amount of time that it has taken to do the preceding work, a 
nearly correct estimate can be made as to the time it may be required to do 
the work now on hand. The method as described is used in a good many 
shops with sometimes widely differing results as to the actual time re¬ 
quired, sometimes being too low an estimate and quite as often too high 
to be in any way near correct. s 















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


21 


The way that is most prevalent for cornice men to bid on work is by 
lump figures, that is, the plans and specifications of a job are submitted by 
the architect to the cornice maker, and he gives a figure for whatever 
amount he is willing to do the work complete or in a lump. It also some¬ 
times occurs that a bid is asked for a cornice by the foot, or how much per 
running foot for the completed cornice put upon the building. If the result 
has been obtained in a manner as shown by the snap rule, it is only neces¬ 
sary to divide the feet or length of the cornice into the sum as arrived at, 
the result being the cost per single foot. This method, although somewhat 
crude, answers well enough in some cases. 

A different way and more reliable one is to estimate the entire items of 
a cornice separately, such as: 1st, work in the shop on cornice, 2d, transpor¬ 
tation from shop to building where the work is to be put up, and 3d, the 
cost of putting up the work on the building itself. In some large establish¬ 
ments the following plan is used to determine the cost of almost any member 
of a complete cornice. I will take say a bracket, or any member of a cor¬ 
nice for that matter. The first step is to make a drawing of the desired 
shape and cut out a pattern; this part is done by the cutter. When this 
is done the time is carefully noted down which it required to do his part of 
the work; also the general character of the design, size and shape; next, 
one man does the forming, another the joining or soldering together of the 
various parts of the work. When the member is completed, the weight, 
size, general description of the work, and the precise time it has taken each 
man to do his share of the work is put down and on the figures thus 
obtained future calculations are based. The same method is used to obtain 
the price of all the different parts of cornices, thus securing at once for 
all time a safe and reliable guide for future estimates and calculations. 
While the foregoing would hardly be applicable to small shops, still it is to 
be recommended to the careful and prudent workingman to keep a close 
record of all the work he does for future reference. For those that have 
not a great deal of experience in this most important branch of the cornice 
business, the great number of catalogues sent out by wholesale houses who 
sell to the trade, the illustrated price lists, etc., will prove of great value to 
the beginner, insomuch as he will find therein the prices charged to the 
trade for almost every conceivable shape or pattern of cornice work made. 
These lists are subject to the usual trade discount. By taking the 
weight of the material it takes to do a certain piece of work, thus obtaining 
its cost for that item, then deducting the cost of the material used from the 
net list price as sold to the trade he will easily obtain the desired cost of 


‘2‘2 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


the item called labor in the shop. Of course, the wholesale manufacturer 
also has a profit to make on the goods he sells, but which in some cases is 
of such a small margin that only the great amount of the output from his 
large establishment makes it pay. Then the great variety of the very best 
machinery in the business alone tends to add greatly to his profits, which 
in many cases enable him to sell to the trade nearly as cheaply as the small 
shop can produce the goods themselves. In any case it is always safe to 
use the prevailing trade price as cost price, then add a certain per cent for 
profit above the figures thus obtained. 

The items of cartage and of putting up the work are of great impor¬ 
tance, there being no fixed rule by which these matters may be decided at 
all times, every job having its own peculiarities and special condi¬ 
tions. This part in the estimating must, in a measure, be based on previous 
experience and familiarity with this kind of work. 

Some men will put up a common cornice in from 3 to 4 hours while it 
may in other cases take them an entire day to do the job on another build¬ 
ing; it all depending in what shape the work is to be put up, if in sections, 
or put up in one piece, and on other conditions probably unforeseen and 
unavoidable; it is always well to know just what kind of men are used to do 
the work in hand. This branch of the work is as well worthy the careful 
consideration as to its most minute details as almost any part of coxnicc 
work. 

The items of solder, rivets, in the shop and also on the outside, the 
scaffolding, hoisting tackle, etc., must all be figured each in its proper 
place. 

To conclude, the person doing the estimating for work of this kind 
should make himself thoroughly familiar with every detail of the work, care¬ 
fully study the tables of weights of materials and their prices, keep time 
on all work for future reference and obtain all data appertaining to this 
branch that it is possible for him to collect. Whenever a job is done let him 
make a detailed, itemized memoranda of all the different phases of the 
work as to time it required, stock and material, how many men employed 
on each item, etc. Such a record will prove of great value and assistance 
in the ready estimating of work. 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


23 


VIII. 

HlGHT-flfiG^H JKITEn PATTER. 

In the preceding articles are given the necessary first steps, such as 
the reading of plans, correct ways of measuring surfaces, preliminary 
figuring and estimating occurring in cornice work. These details being 
disposed of, the next step in the regular course of the construction of a cor¬ 
nice is cutting the patterns and laying out the entire work as demanded 
by the drawings of any particular job under consideration. This part of 
the work is, as a matter of course, done by the cutter, who in most shops is 
also foreman, who has the general management and control of all the details 
of the practical work. The particular and special qualifications demanded 
in a first-class cutter have been fully covered in Article II, and need no 
further description at this time. 

When a person first takes up the study of the science of pattern cut¬ 
ting, it is of the greatest importance that the correct methods and at the 
same time the right way is taken to acquire the knowlelge sought for. The 
proper course to take is to know the why and wherefore for every step and 
move taken. Study carefully and master every detail that is demanded by 
the drawings submitted, so that when you proceed to lay out the problems 
involved in any particular case you fully understand what is required. 
Guess work will not do in this branch of the work. Accuracy, careful 
study, good judgment and the exercise of a certain amount of good com¬ 
mon sense is demanded for success. Do not attempt to use short cuts 
quick methods and snap-rules before you even understand the first rudiments 
of the correct and proper mode of solving problems. 

It is assumed that the person intending to work out the problems 
which will be given from time to time in this series of articles, has provid¬ 
ed himself with the necessary tools and also with a work on plane geom¬ 
etry, as suggested in Article V. The manner of treatment I intend to 
follow is precisely the same as is used in common every-day shop prac¬ 
tice; that is, just as if I were actually getting out the job under considera¬ 
tion. As the drawings of the cornice given in Article V will answer the 
purpose as well as any other design, I will proceed to tre-it the same in de¬ 
tail. It will be seen that the front elevation and plan are drawn to the 
scale of j|" to *he foot, Figs. 25 and 26. The profile or side elevation, Fig. 
27, is J" to the foot. The first operation is to draw all the different details 


24 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


to full size from the scale. As these are the final data from which all the 
rest of the work is to be done, it follows that they must be correct. The 
first member or part of this cornice that I will discuss at length will be the 
foot molding, letter K, of Fig. 27, Article Y (as it would be impossible to 
give drawings full size here, they are drawn to the scale of 2" to the foot. 



The Fig. 80 gives the profile of the foot molding throughout its entire 
length, as from A to B and so on, including C D E to F. Draw this 
much first, then draw the wall line G to G' to its proper relative position 
as is shown and demanded by the drawings, Figs. 26 and 27 of Article V. 
Next the plan of the 3" projection may be drawn the same as given in 
Fig. 30 and also the complete plan of this part of the foot-molding. The 
Fig. 30 gives the plan of the right hand end of the foot-molding of Figs. 25 
and 26, of Article V. Draw all these parts as described to full size. Also 
note down the full size measurements as are fully given in this part of the 
plan of the foot-molding; as these are the actual sizes of the various parts 
of the molding when done, they give the data from which the lengths of 
the different parts are taken which constitute the foot-molding. This 
leads to observe the particular construction of this molding. Note the ex¬ 
treme ends of the foot-molding; they turn back from the front line of the front 
wall 20" and correspondingly on the extreme outer edge of the foot-mold¬ 
ing 25". This shows that the projection of the foot-molding is 5" hori- 
ontaliy outward from the wall line. Then the foot molding, according 
to the plan Fig. 26 of Article Y, has eight outside and six inside miters; 
the various miters corresponding to the different projections of the wall, as 
the Figs. 25 and 26 of Article V give. This molding being a horizontal 
molding, as a consequence the various miters are horizontal miters. 
This much leads to the two lines showing the junction of the outside mi- 



















































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


25 


ter as line X X' and line S S' of the inside miter of Fig. 30. In pattern 
cutting the cutter seldom has more than two views of a problem to deal 
with at the same time, the principal points of view being a horizontal and 
a vertical one in most of the ordinary cases in the course of the work. In 
this case we have a vertical view of the profile and a horizontal or plan 
view of the miter lines, all in the flat as the Figure 30 gives. From 
this it follows that the intersecting lines from the curve of the profile, 
starting from the numbers 1 to 8 and cutting the miter lines X X' and S S, 
are supposed to drop vertically, just as if the profile were standing up in a 
vertical position from the plan. Or, in other words, if a piece of molding 
as the profile demands, was cut at line X' X" and also cut through at 
the miter line X X' and it had all the points marked on the face of the 
molding at the line X' X", then from these points horizontal lines drawn 
to the cut established by the line X X' they would be precisely the some as 
are drawn in Fig. 30, looking down at them from the top of the molding. 
From this then it follows that when the miter line is to be determined for 
a horizontal molding, the lines must be drawn either from the top or bot¬ 
tom of the profile of that particular molding, if drawn in the flat, and 
never from the sides. In this case they are drawn from the bottom, as Fig. 
30 shows. 

For the curved part of the foot molding divide the same into any con¬ 
venient number of equal parts; in this instance I have divided the same 
into seven, as the points 1 to 8 show. From these points drop lines to the 
miter line X X' and as the 3" projection has the same profile as the rest of 
the molding they may be continued as is fully shown in the drawing. 

Draw the line X' X", as this line gives the full extent of the miter in 
the plan, as from the points X' and X to X'. 

This completes the drawings that are necessary by this method to 
get the data for the required distances, so that the actual patterns of the 
required members of the foot molding can be taken from the same. 

The next step is to get the stretch-out or envelope of the molding. 
Take the distance of the entire profile of Fig. 30, from A, B, C, D, E, to 
F. Make the distance shown between the lines A A' and F F' of Fig. 31. 
Between these lines the different spaces are drawn, each one corresponding 
to the relative positions shown in the profile of Fig. 30. These lines are 
all lettered and numbered in the stretch out, Fig. 30. Draw the line A to 
F perpendicularly to the line A to A' as shown in Fig. 81. The lengths of 
the various lines between line X to X and from X to X of the plan of 
Fig. 30, when drawn or transferred on the stretch-out, give the lengths of 


26 CORNICE WORK MANUAL 




























































































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


27 


all the lines as shown between the lines A' to F" and the miter line Xto 
X' of Fig. 31 and the true outline for any of the right hand parts of the 
outside miters in this foot molding. To get the left hand part, the pattern 
has only to be reversed. In fact the entire miter lines for the foot-mold- 
ing :an be taken from this one alone if the lengths and positions are cor¬ 
rectly placed and the patterns be properly reversed, to suit each particular 
position of the various parts. This applies to both the inside and outside 
miters. The stretch-out of the 3" projection is fully shown in Fig. 81. Add 
the 3" on the corresponding line as distance from point X to X" shows; 
the same is done with all the other lines. The distance between the miter 
lines D and X" gives the shape that the miter lines make the part appear 
that join on to the inside miter-line of the 3'' projecting parts. It is un¬ 
derstood that the actual length of these parts is governed by the length 
demanded for each part, by Fig. 25, Article Y. Fig. 31 merely gives the 
outline of these parts, and not the actual lengths. These can only be 
obtained'Jirom the plan and the front elevation, Figs. 25 and 26, of 
Article V. 

Fig. 82 is here introduced to show how the profile may be either 
placed above or below the miter-line of the plan. The two views of the 
profile also show how some beginners make the mistake in putting the lines 
in the wrong plane from the profile; that is, drawing the lines outward 
from the face of the molding, or horizontally, which is the wrong way in a 
square miter of a horizontal molding, instead of drawing them in a verti¬ 
cal plan, which is the correct way, as set forth in the description of Fig. 
30. The two letters R, R' of Fig. 32, show the positions of the sets of 
lines that are wrong for a horizontal molding. The various hints, rules 
and reasons given for the different steps in the foregoing method, it will be 
well for the beginner to study and master in all their details. These once 
fully understood a long step is taken toward the rapid acquirement of the 
art of pattern-cutting as employed in cornice-cutting. As most rules 
following those given above are wholly or in part based on them, it is 
easily seen how important it is to first master them in the beginning of this 
study. 

As I have given the problems Fisrs. 30 and 31 at full length (or in 
other words), by the long method, in this article, I will give some problems 
of the same character, occurring in the cornice under consideration, by a 
shorter method. 

The dotted projecting parts of the stretch-out of the 3" projections of 
Fig. 31 are not turned up as on the other members of this molding. The 
reason for this will be seen by examining the front elevation and plan, 


28 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


Figs. 25 and 26 of Article V. 

Where these members join against the side of the brackets, no project¬ 
ing parts are met with, as is the case in all the front parts of this cornice 
where the foot molding joins the panel section. The small dots on one of 
the stretch-outs show where to mark the iron with the prick-punch, where 
the same is to be bent in the brake. 

The next point that the cutter must consider is how the various parts of 
the cornice are to be joined and fastened together. Figs. 33 and 34 give two 
ways sometimes used. These joints are between the top of the foot mold¬ 
ing as at A, of Fig. 30, and at the bottom of the panel section. The ways 
that these joints are made in different shops vary greatly, nearly every cut¬ 
ter or foreman having his own notions as how they should be made. Some 
use the style as in Fig. 34, others merely lap them and tack with solder, 
while some rivet and solder them, etc. In brief, whatever mode is used, 
allowance must be made in the laying out of the pattern for the material 
it takes to do the same, 


IX. 

BRACKET PATTERS. 

The eight end brackets and also the six center brackets are next to be 
gotten out. Fig. 27, of Article V, gives the profile of all the brackets 
demanded by the plan, Fig. 26 and Fig. 25 of the front elevation, Article V. 
Fig. 27 is drawn to a scale of three-fourths of an inch to the foot. The first 
step to get the patterns is to draw a correct profile of either side of one of 
the brackets. This operation, in order to be correct in every particular, is 
subject to the following considerations, which must be taken into account 
by the person who is developing the full sized working patterns for the 
brackets. The first of these is that the way the sides are going to fit and 



CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


29 


join to the stretch-out on front part of the bracket, is fully determined on. 
Some cutters allow for laps on the front face or stretch-out, while others 
merely allow for butting the edges. These two ways I regard as not as 
good as allowing for the laps on the side pieces. The laps when thus prop¬ 
erly placed make a neater, easier done and a far stronger job than the 
other ways. The pattern of the side of bracket B, Fig. 35, explains all the 
above as to where the laps are put to join the sides and the fronts of the 
brackets together. Another point to be considered is, how are the brack¬ 
ets to be joined to the planceer, the dentil band, the panel course and to 
the foot molding? As it will take 28 inches for the stretch-out of the 
planceer and dentil band together, it is best to make these two members 
out of one piece of iron as to their girth. The lengths of the different 
pieces are governed by the plan, Fig. 26, Article V, and have to be com¬ 
plied with as demanded. At the point nearest to the wall line of the top 
of the foot molding, as given by Fig. 30 of Article VII, it will be noticed 
that the same stands from the wall line one inch and so does also the' 
bevel panel of the frieze section nearest to the brackets. This shows that 
the back line of the brackets is to be calculated as standing off from the 
wall line one inch. At this edge allow one inch for flange to lay off at 
right angles to meet the panel moldings. At the top of the pattern allow 
one-half inch to lay off against the planceer and the same where the sides 
come against the dentil course. At the bottom of the sides allow one-half 
inch to lay off against the top part of the foot molding. After all the 
foregoing is fully considered and understood in every detail, the pattern 
may be laid out as follows: Draw a full size profile of the bracket, as 
from A of Fig. 27, Article V, to the foot molding. (The figure here given 
is three-fourths inch to the foot.) This has been done in Fig. 35. Then 
draw the top line of bracket which comes up under and against the plan¬ 
ceer. Draw the line that comes against the dentil band at the front and 
bottom of the same. Drop the line as shown for the back of the bracket. 
All this must be according to the profile, Fig. 27 of Article V. Now draw 
the lines showing the different laps, as in Fig. 35. The curved parts are 
to be notched as shown. The entire front lap of B, Fig. 85, must be 
turned inward to meet the face or front of the bracket, while the back 
laps are turned outward from tho bracket. The letters 1 I' I" of B, 
Rig. 35, give the laps which are to be turned inward and the letters 0 0 
indicate those which are to be turned outward. The line A, Fig. 35, 
shows how a side of the bracket appears in a plan of the same, after the 
laps are all bent as described in the foregoing. The stretch-out is given in 
C, Fig. 35. This covers the front from X' to 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, to 7 of B. 


30 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


Corresponding numerals on C show where the same is to be bent and 
formed to the shape required by the profile. It will be noticed that the 
space x to x ot 13 has no corresponding space allowed on the stretch-out. 
This part is intended to be covered bv the ornamental rosettes shown in the 
front elevation Fig. 25, of Article Y. The foregoing describes the «ight end 
brackets fully; for the six center brackets which have a 3" projection far¬ 
ther out at the top than the end brackets, the only alteration necessary is 
shown by the dotted lines of Fig. 27, of Article V. No further description 
is needed for this point. 



The next step is to get out the planceer and the dentil band. Fi :. 
86 gives the shape the same is to be formed to at 1; a J" bend 
downward is shown; at this point the planceer and the fascia band 
are joined in such a manner so as to form a drip. From 1 to 2 gives the 

" I i 

2 Scale % to the foot , ! I 

-—-Tir— tJ 

Fig. 36 

.jy 

width of the planceer for that portion of the cornice where the end 
brackets occur; the dotted line from 1 outward gives what is to be 
added to the center or 3" projecting part. From 2 to 3 forms the 
dentil band with a 1" bend back to meet and lap under the 






















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


31 


panel sections. The lengths of the parts of Fig. 36 are governed by 
the plan of the crown molding of Fig. 25, Article Y. The bed molding 
under the planceer and at the upper end of the face of the dentil band, of 
Fig. 27, of Article Y, will be considered next. The Fig. 37 gives the pro 
file of the above described bed molding from A, X, X', H to B. As this 
gives the profile of all the different members of this molding, it follows 
that the one view and also the one development of the miter pattern will 
answer for all the inside and outside miters. The only operation neces¬ 
sary to make this pattern do for all the different ends, is to reverse the 
same to make it fit to the end it belongs to. This point has been described 
and explained at length in the description of the Figure 30, Article VIII, 
and also in Fig. 31 of this article. The method I have used to develop 
the required pattern in this case is a somewhat shorter one than the one 
used to solve the problem involved in Fig. 30, Article VIII, the main point 


s x a 



of difference being that in this case, Fig. 31, no miter line nor a pbm 
drawing of this miter is used. This method is used by many cutters for the 
development of square horizontal miters. To develop the pattern for this 
miter, draw the line A', B, Fig. 37, parallel at any distance from the line 
H, X' of the profile. Drop lines at right angles from points B and P of 
line B and A as shown. Drop a line from A of line A, X and S to point 
A' of line A' to B. Next divide the curve as shown into as many equal 





























CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


parts as desirable. In this case I have divided the curve into eight equal 
parts, This done, transfer the distances thus obtained on to the stretch¬ 
out. The distance between A to X is equal to the distance between line 
B, A' and noint H. Make all the other distances correspond to tnose given 
between the numerals as shown on the curve X to X'; this distance is 
shown in tbe stretch-out from line H to point X". From X" to B' is also 
equal in the stretch-out to the distance between X' to H and B of the pro¬ 
file. The remaining lines may now be drawn from points X, 1, 2, 3, etc., 
to point X' of the curve of the profile, to where they intersect the lines of 
the spaces as drawn for the length of the stretch-out. Where these in¬ 
tersections occur, as the numerals 1', 2', 8etc., to 7'and H and X" show, 
points are established through which a freehand line is drawn. This line 
is the miter line of the curved part of the molding as demanded for a right 
angled or square horizontal miter for this curve. As the miter under con¬ 
sideration has a square joint, it follows that the miter line is cut at an 
angle of 45° on all flat or horizontal surfaces occurring in the same. As 
the surface of X to A and X' to H of the profile are of this kind, the cor¬ 
responding parts of the stretch-out must be cut at an angle of 45° from the 
point that occurs at the extreme outside junction of tbe horizontal surface 
of this right angle. This is done by the line X" to line B of the stretch-out 
and also at from A' to H.' Any vertical surface from a horizontal one, as 
shown by line H to B of the profile, is also drawn perpendicularly or verti¬ 
cally from the general horizontal position of the stretch-out in the case. This 
is shown by the line from point B' of stretch-out. This line is equal in 


»*1 \ 
DQ \ 


qq 

CO 

CD 


lbs 


SIDE VIEW 




length in the stretch-out to line H B of the profile and ends at the point 
where it joins the 45° miter-line of the horizontal part. The above des¬ 
cription, although giving only the details of one of the simplest of the com¬ 
mon kinds of square horizontal miters, embraces all the principles ever 
made use of in developing even the most complicated miters of this class. 
To master the two methods as given for square miters, means a long step 
forward in the art of cornice pattern cutting. In this pattern I have omitted 
to draw out the laps for joining the miter joints together, leaving this part 
to the judgment of the student. The mode to follow on the miter line from 
A', H', 1 to 7, X" to N and B' is similar to the mode shown for laps in 
Fig. 35. 







CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


83 


} 

X. 

PATTERNS POR PAJStEE SECTIONS. 

The panel section is the next part of the cornice which I will discuss 
It will be seen by referring to Fig. 25 of Article V, that this section has 
all its members in a straight line, that is, none of the members project 
out from the wall line any farther than any other member in this section of 
the cornice. In the elevation they are all of one height, the only difference 
being in the width of the different members as compared with each other. 
As it is not necessary to lay out all the members, they being alike in every 
particular, with the exception of the width of some of the members from 
each other, I leave it to the student to take care of this point himself. 

In this case a different kind of molding than described in former arti¬ 
cles, is presented, namely: A horizontal molding mitering onto, or with, a 
perpendicular one. The moldings involved in this case are of the plainest and 
simplest of this class. The distinguishing difference between a horizontal 
molding mitering with another one of the same kind, such as the foot 
molding and a horizontal molding mitering to a perpendicular molding, is 
that they cut the face of the molding, or in other words cut the same 
with horizontal planes for the horizontal and perpendicular moldings, 
while for horizontal moldings only, they cut the same from the top to the 
bottom, or vertically. All this is plainly shown by the drawings of the two 
styles of moldings in Figs. 80 and 32 of Article VIII, for the horizontal 
molding, and Fig. 40 in this article for the horizontal and perpendicular 
moldings. I will take one of the 2' square members of the panel sections 
of Fig. 25, Article V, and show how to lay out this member, Fig. 38, from 
A to B gives a sectional view. The dotted line from B to C, and from 
E to F is merely given to show the manner in which the laps are made 
with other parts of the structure. In this figure I have also shown the po¬ 
sition of the dentil blocks between A to E. X to X' shows a side view of the 
position of the crimped, or corrugated piece in the center of the panel. Fig. 39 
gives a plan view of the panel only. The two views are drawn to the scale of 1'' 



Fig. 39 

to the foot. These I will call the working drawings. If drawn correctly they 
give all the data from which the entire patterns for all these members may 
be obtained. Fig. 40, A, shows how one corner of the molding appears 







34 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


when done. To obtain the stretch-out for the bottom horizontal part of this 
molding, proceed as follows: Take the Fig. 38, this gives at B, 1"; then 
from this the slanting part, which is 4" to B', from B' to X a back, and 
another J" up, altogether making 6". This gives the entire width of this part 
of the panel molding. To lay out the stretch-out, draw line 1, of B, Fig. 40; 
make line 2 parallel from line 1, but 1" apart from the same; from line 
2 to line 3 is to be 4"; from line 3 to 4 one J", ,and from line 4 to 5 one 
also. This is shown in B, of Fig. 40. To obtain the distance that the 




slanting 4" part is to be cut so as to have the right bevel for the miter re¬ 
quired, extend the line 1, 1-* of A downward, as shown, from point 1*, to 
the extreme outer line, or from 1* to l-*, which gives the true or direct dis¬ 
tance sought. Transfer this distance to B of Fig. 40 from line X, X' out 
to the extreme edge, as shown at X". Connect point X and X" by a line as 
shown; this line is the miter line for the slanting part of the molding. 
The distance from point X" to line 1, 1* is shown and connected by a line 
perpendicular from either one of the lines, 2 or 1, 1*. The distance between 
lines 3 to 4 is connected likewise. Then the distance between lines 4 and 5 
is cut by a line at 45 degrees from one to the other. This is shown in B, 
of Fig. 40. The reason that the last described line is cut at an angle of 46 
degrees is, first, because the surface of this part lies at right angles to the 
member that is to join to it, and both surfaces lay in the same plane, that 
is flat, and also because both pieces being of the same width, it follows as 
a consequence that if they are to be mitered to each other at right angles, 
that a distance equal in width must be taken off the inner edge of both the 
pieces, as the pieces are wide. In the case of the miter line for the slant¬ 
ing of 4" part, the conditions are different from the above in so far as only a 
foreshortened view of the molding is shown in A, of Fig. 40. If there were no 
deviations from a flat plane, a 45 degree miter line would do for this part. 
But the shape being as the drawings demand, no other course is left but to 
strictly follow them. Bear this in mind, that the more a straight surface 
of a right angled mitered molding deviates from a flat plane, the less de¬ 
grees the angle has from a 90 degree angle, 45 degrees being the limit for 

















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


35 


right angled miters. Fig. 40 also gives C a profile of the bottom horizon¬ 
tal member of the panel loops when formed to its final shape. This gives 
all that is necessary for the miters of all of the panels, the pattern having 
only to be reversed for the adjoining members. For the sides, the plan 
gives the width, and the end view gives all the particulars for the top 
member of the molding. Figs. 38 and 89 also give all data as to the length 
for the side pieces, while Fig. 25 of Article Y gives the length for bottom 
and top pieces. In Fig. 40 B C shows how the laps are best placed. This 
is a matter which I leave to the student. The small panels between the 
brackets where they are close together, are, in every way, like the larger 
ones as to the laying out part. The measurements, of course, are smaller 
as to their width; in height they are the same as the others. The shape of 
the dentil blocks is shown by Fig. 25, Article Y, and a side view is given 
in Fig. 38. Fig. 41 gives the pattern. The drawing shown is so clear that 
it is unnecessary to give a detailed description at this time. The different 
views presented show how the bends are to be made. The side view in Fig. 
30, and the position on the face of the pattern show where the outward 
and the 2" in diameter projections go. 

Each of the 2" in diameter projections may be made out of a strip one 
half inch wide and six and three-eighths inches in length; this allows nearly 
one-eighth of an inch for lap, foim and solder the strip into a circular band; 
make as many of these as the entire job demands, then cut out the two-inch 
covers or disks, solder these to one end of the half-inch wide bands, get all 
these out, and when the dentil blocks are cut out, formed and soldered into 
their proper shape, as demanded, these bands may be soldered on to the 
dentil blocks. The dentil blocks are then ready to be attached to their po¬ 
sitions as demanded by the drawings. A substitute projection for the two- 
inch blocks may be used in the shape of half balls or zinc hemispheres, that 
is if the workman so desires, these will come somewhat cheaper than the 
flat ended cylindrical shaped half-inch outward projections. 

XI. 

!*IGHT~Af4GIiE 1*BTUH1SL miTEI* PATTERS. 

The last members of the cornice proper, as given in Article Y, Fig. 25, 
are the fascia band, crown molding, deck and deck molding. To lay out 
these parts, so as to cause the least possible waste of material, is the prob¬ 
lem. It is necessary to consider what sizes of sheets are best suited to cut 
the different parts wanted, from, so as to avoid waste. To determine this 
point, so that the best results may be obtained, the cutter must use good 
judgment. At times other considerations must be borne in mind, besides 


\ 


36 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


how to best suit the work so that there will be less cutting of material 
which may, sometimes, cause some little saving of stock, but in the endne- 


L 







































































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


37 


oessitate a greater amount of extra labor to make the work come out right, 
thus making the cost of the work far greater than if in the first place a 
small amount of material had been sacrificed. The ability to decide cor¬ 
rectly just what course to take on all occasions, where points are involved, 
as described in the foregoing, is what makes some cutters so much more 
valuable and efficient in a cornice shop, than those who are lacking in this 
most essential faculty. It is a very easy matter for a cutter, by making a 
few mistakes of the general character as indicated to very materially re¬ 
duce the gross profits on the job. It is a good rule to carefully study all the 
various phases of each piece of work as it comes up. Do not jump at con¬ 
clusions at the first moment, but weigh well all the different peculiarities of 
each member of the work, and when fully considered, go ahead. A few 
minutes more devoted to the proper consideration of a job in the beginning, 
will often save hours of work afterward and, as a consequence, will save 
considerable expense. The foregoing not only applies to the parts of the 
work under discussion, but equally embraces each and every item that goes 
toward making and getting out any part of cornice work. 

To illustrate the practical application of some of the foregoing hints: 
Take Fig. 42; A is the elevation of the deck and deck moldings, and also of 
the crown molding and fascia band of the cornice, described inArticle Y, 
Fig. 25. I have drawn these detail drawings to the scale of one inch to 
the foot. After the student has drawn the details of this part, I will say to 
full size, for his convenience, and also to be absolutely correct in all details, 
the first question that arises is: How is this work to be done to the best ad¬ 
vantage? By measuring the part from D to E it will be found to measure 
15", and from o, E to F of the profile, it will be found to measure 24". 
As the most profitable sizes of iron commonly used in cornice work are the 
sizes of thirty inches in width and less, and as there are no sizes made that 
would be necessary if it were desired to make the entire profile out of one 
piece, namely 39", it follows that some other size will have to be used, and 
also that this member must be made out of more than one piece, in regard 
to its girt or stretch-out of the profile. The best plan to meet the conditions 
laid down in the above is, to take sheets 30" wide, and split these into 15" 
strips, lengthways, and, as the distance from D to E is 15", these strips 
will answer for that part of the work. Then from o, E to F, use 24" wide 
sheets. This settles the question as to what sizes of iron are best adapted 
to make this portion of the cornice, and that without any waste of material. 

The development of the various miters occurring in this part of the cor* 
nice, is done in the same manner as I have used in developing the miters for 
the moldings described in Article IX, Fig. 37; namely, by the short meth¬ 
od. As the different members are all horizontal moldings and panels, and 


38 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


also all the miters are right-angled or 90° miters-, the method used is at 
once the easiest and quickest that could be made use of for the purpose. I 
have also given a further illustration—how the lines used to obtain the pro¬ 
jections may be used either above or below the profile or elevation. This 
I have done by showing the development of the part from D to E, below 
part A, as C shows from H to I, and for the part from o, E to E, of A, by 
the part B, from KtoL. The distance between the line K, to line L, of 
B, is equal to the distance from point o, to F, of A; all the other parallel 
lines in B are correspondingly placed as the profile A demands. The dis¬ 
tances that the various parts of the projections extend outward are also 
shown in the drawing. A full and detailed description in every particular 
of the steps to be taken to get out a miter of this kind has been given in 
Article IX and need not be repeated in this instance. The full stretch-out 
and development of the miters for the section from B to E, of A, are given 
in C, from H to I. The lines H to I are apart from each other equal to the 
distance of the stretch-out D to E, of A. The numerals 0, to 5, of A, are 
placed on the stretch-out of C, as demanded by the profile A, a ; d correspond¬ 
ing lines are dropped to the intersecting points of the parallel lines of the 
stretch-out; through these points of intersection the miter line is drawn, as 
C gives. The miter line thus developed answers for all parts of all the va¬ 
rious miters in this section. The student has but to reverse the pattern to 
make it fit to the member it belongs to, as the occasion demands. I have 
shown in C, how the 8" projecting parts are cut; the same have also been 
shown in B. The small circles on the stretch-out of one of the 3" projecting 
parts show where the bends are to be made, as required by the profile. Fig. 



48 gives a plan of one of the 3" projecting double miters of this member. 
This part of the cornice has four outside and two inside miters, as Fig. 25, 
of Article V, shows. In the foregoing descriptions and developments of the 
cornice, as given in Article Y, Fig. 25, I have described the ordinary, right- 




















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


39 


angled horizontal miters, both inside and outside, as well as the mitering 
of a horizontal molding to a vertical one. In the development of the right- 
angle horizontal miters I have made use of both the strictly geometrical 
rule or long way, and also of a short method, to attain the desired result. 
I would advise the student to thoroughly master the rules, as laid down in 
the problems given, as they are but the first steps to the more complicated 
problems that will follow, as more difficult work is considered further on. 


XII. 

PATTERS OF A PEDIJVIBNT AfiD TflEIf^ DEVELOP- 

fAHfi T. 


In Article V, the Fig. 25 shows a full front view of the pediment of the 
cornice under consideration; it is drawn to the scale of 3-16 of an inch to 
the foot. I will now discuss this member in detail. Fig. 44 is drawn to 




the scale of 1" to the foot, and is the lower front half of the pediment. 
The profile of this section is shown by A for the columns, and by B for the 
plain, and the ornamented paneled part as shown by Fig. 25, of Article V. 
The outside face measurements of every necessary detail are fully given in this 
figure. The distance from A to B gives one-half of the front, commencing 
from the extreme outer edge of the top of this section at A, to B, the cen¬ 
ter line of the entire pediment C. The flat part between the 1" square 
projection at the top at A and the 1" molding at C is 3£" vertically. The 






























































40 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 




bottom of the molding extends back far enough to form a lap with the 
columns and also the vertical panel section where the junction of these two 
parts occurs. The peculiar features that are connected with the proper 
fitting and correct joining together of these parts are fully shown by the 
two views in profile. The square miter for the straight parts, and also for 
the square miter for the molding underneath the same, have been explained 
in the preceding articles. The same has also been done in regard to how 
the miters are to be developed for the panel moldings in the panel section 
of the main cornice. In this case these moldings are all square cornered 
and flat surfaces, the same as Fig. 40 of Article X shows. 

The stretch-out of these moldings is shown at D of B, of Fig. 44, the 
height is 13" by 8J" for the extreme outside measurement for the two end 
panels, and 81" square for the center panel. The center ornament may 
either be made by hand, hammered to shape, or a stamped zinc ornament 
may be soldered into position, as demanded by the design of this section. 

The columns, pillars, or pilasters are 17" high or long, by 4 Y' wide 
and project out 1". The sunk panels as shown are 1£" wide by 18" 



Plan of Column 


ll_r* 


Fig. 45 


t 


£ 




Plan of Base X pr 


) 

\ 

L— 

- n 


Fig. 46 


long, and 1" deep. Figure 45 gives the plan view of the same. These 
columns can be made entire, out of one piece of iron, with the exception of 
the sunk panels. The stretch-out is from A to C for the front. Then from 
C to B, which is 22" back, the side of that part of this section of the pedi¬ 
ment is to be made as the measures given. The side and front may both 
be made in one piece and cut as demanded, for the height 17" and at 
each end at the top and also at the bottom, making this piece for its height 
















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


41 


18". The length is to be as the drawings demand from A, C to B of Fig. 
45. All the measurements are marked on the front view C of Fig. 44, for 
this portion of the work. The next part to get out is the base of the 
column. This is 14" long and 4J" high for the vertical front part, and 
also for the front side. The molding measures 1" upward to where it 
meets the columns. Figure 46 gives a plan view of the base. It will be 
observed that the front of the columns stands back from the outside face of 
the base more than from the ends of the same. This is shown.by the front 
view C for the ends, and by the side profile A at X for the front molding, 
and also by the profile B at the corresponding point of that figure. As it 
will be seen, the moldings at the two ends are alike botli in height and 
width, and that both differ from the front molding in widtE. but not in 
height. 

These conditions are caused by the fixed positions that the columns 
are placed in, on the base, as demanded by the front and side views. In 
other words, the junction of these two moldings may be termed, the miter¬ 
ing of two horizontal moldings whose profiles are different from each other.. 
Owing to this particular combination of circumstances the following method 
must be used to solve the problem in this case, which is: how to obtain the 
miter line for the two parts for this miter? 

The first step to be taken is to get all the particulars and correct plan 
of the moldings as demanded by the plan, Fig. 46, and also from the de¬ 
ductions arrived at from the front and side views of Fig. 44. These give 
the line D as the line of the moldings, and the line from 14 to X to 14 as 
the outside line of the two sections of the desired moldings. The line 15 
to point C to 15' is the outside of the base. Within the above described 
limits or lines, the profiles of the two parts of the mitering moldings must 
be drawn, in order to comply with the required conditions as imposed by 
the plan, front and side view of Figs. 44 and 46. 

I will first draw the smaller molding of part 1, Fig. 47. This is 
given by the line 1 to 15. From 1 to 2 is for the lap under and inside 
of the columns. The curve from 4 to 14 I have divided into ten equal 
parts, as given by part 1, of Fig. 47. From these points as found drop 
lines to the miter line D to X, as shown. The position of the miter 
line as given, instead of cutting direct from point I) to C in a straight 
line as would be the case in a regular miter or angle of 90°, is drawn 
instead from D to X, and from there to point C. By examining the 
course of the plan lines of the moldings it will be seen, that if the out¬ 
side lines are to conform to the demands of the plans, and to be pa¬ 
rallel with each other, and also from the outside face line of the base 
of the columns, no other point of juncture is possible for them to meet 


42 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


at than the point at which they are shown at, to do so, namely, the 
point 'X, and they are accordingly so placed. From the points where 
the lines 4 to 14 of the curve of part 1 intersect the miter line D to X, 
draw lines at right angles, and continue the same indefinitely. 

The solid line A, A and from A to B, gives the extent of the mi¬ 
ter of the curves only, while the line from D to D and from D to E 
gives the measurements for the development of the entire moldings as 
will be shown further on. At any convenient distance from line D to 
E, draw the line F. 15. as shown in part 2, of Fig. 47. Then transfer 
the distances for each line as contained in the space between the curve 



of part 1 and line E' to 15, to the same lines above line F to 15, of 
part 2. The distance so transferred gives the length of each line and 
also determines the points through which the curve of the profile of the 
molding of part 2, of Fig. 47, is cut. The curve thus found is the true 






























CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


43 


shape that the molding as found must assume in order to enable the same 
to miter to the molding of part 1, of Fig. 47, so that each point of its hori¬ 
zontal surface is in an equal plane with the other molding, or, expressed in 
another term, level. 

To develop the patterns get the stretch-out of each part as shown 
in Fig. 48. For part 2 take the distance from 1 to 15 of part 2, of 
Fig. 47, and mark the same in line D to B, of part 2, of Fig. 48. 
From the points thus established and numbered as shown in part 2 of Fig. 
48> draw lines at right angles to line D to B, Then take the distance or 



length of the lines contained between the line D to E and the* line D to X 
and C, of Fig. 47, and mark them on to the lines 1 to 15 of the stretch-out 
of number 2, of Fig. 48. Through the points thus formed, the miter line D 
to C is obtained for this part. For the stretch-out of the part number 1, 
of Fig. 48, a precisely similar operation must be gone through with to ob¬ 
tain the result sought for, with the difference, of course, that the measure¬ 
ments as found vary somewhat from those of the part number 2. All the 
loregoing is fully shown in the two figures 47 and 48. It is possible, if so 
desired, to make the entire base out of one piece of iron. 

Care must be taken to get the measures for the length of the center 
section just right, which is from point 2 to the corresponding point at the 



































44 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


other end (not shown in the stretch-out) 12^", or from point C to the other 
end of base 14". The measures for the parts of the sides are governed by 
the plan, Figs. 46 and 45. The development of Fig. 48 gives the measures 
for the moldings. That part of the base that is below the line B K may 
be added. The height of the same is 4J" for the face and 1" for the lap 
on the deck of the cornice proper. The drawings show plainly where all 
the laps go and how they are to be arranged to the best advantage. The 
flat part in the panel section, which is 5" wide, is soldered into position as 
shown by the profile B of Fig. 44. The student will do well to study the 
various ways that the different parts are intended to fit and lap together, 
and also the general arrangement of the various sections as given in Fig. 
44, in relation to each other, so that when he has work of a similar charac¬ 
ter at other times to do, the hints and suggestions given in this case may 
be of benefit to him in future work. 


XIII. 


THE PATTERS FOH R SEG^E^TAL SECTION OF R 

PEDI^EflT. 

The working drawings of the top section of the pediment, or the mem¬ 
ber to be drawn after the entire lower section of the pediment has been 
made up, is shown in Fig. 49. This figure is drawn J" to the foot as is 
also Fig. 50, which shows the side elevation, profile or section of Fig. 49. 
The main dimensions of both drawings are given in figures. One-half of 
the front is only shown, as all the details can be taken from the same, as 
well as if the entire front had been drawn out. From 1 to 2 and from 3 to 
4 of Fig. 49, embrace all of the circular moldings occurring in this mem¬ 
ber; the profile of this molding is given from 1 to 2 of Fig. 50. From 2 
to 4 and from 2 to 5, the center, or segmental flat piece of the pediment, 
is shown in Fig. 49, and is correspondingly shown from point 3 to 4 in 
the elevation, Fig. 50. The fluted pieces of the front are shown in the ele¬ 
vation from point 3 to 6 in Fig. 50. From 6, 4 to 7 of Fig. 50, gives the 
section of 6, 7 to 5 of Fig. 49. The fluted pieces and the segment of the 
front view are supposed to represent the rising sun and the rays from the 
same. The position that the back (upon which the fluted pieces are fas¬ 
tened) occupies is shown by the distance between the points 3 to 4 of Fig. 
50; that is, back from the moldings, or in other words, back from the 



CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


45 


lowest outside vertical face of the same. In the development of these two 
views, into working drawings to be used in the shop, from the drawings of 
Fig. 25, of Article Y, and Fig. 28, of Article VI, the cutter need not be 
over-particular, and in fact cutters never are, in drawing hidden lines, or 
lines that do not show on account of their positions being behind other sur¬ 
faces, by dotted lines in designating their true positions in a view. On 
this point the cutter generally uses his own judgment, as it is often more 
convenient for him to make a line solid instead of dotted, as it should be if 
done according to the strict laws of delineating drawings of this class. The 
reasons for this are that if the position of a certain hidden line in a draw¬ 
ing is to be referred to often, and if it should happen that the line particu¬ 



larly wanted is located among a number of lines of the same class—namely, 
hidden or dotted lines—it can be very readily understood why some cutters 
make them solid instead of dotted. The foregoing has in some cases been 
done in the problems presented in these articles, to assist in the ready find¬ 
ing of lines of this class whenever wanted. Bearing in mind the foregoing 
hints, the workman may now proceed to draw the two elevations of the 
front and side view, or section of the side, as given by the Figures 49 and 50. 
Get the radius of the curve 1 to I of Fig. 49, from the dimensions deduced 
from Fig. 25, of Article V. Then the other curves are found in the same 
manner and each placed in its position. The Fig. 50 is found in the same 
general manner from Fig. 28, of Article VI. Be careful that every detail 
is in its proper and correct position and place. The width of the pediment 
on its top is 27". This may be cut out of 28" iron. Make this piece 
twice the length from 1 to 3. The face view of the part A of the molding 
is made just as Fig. 49 gives it; also the parts of the views B and C of the 


























46 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


same figure. The pieces which occur under the curves A, B and B are flat 

and are made in width as the profile Fig. 50 gives, and in length as the 
positions they occupy in Fig. 49 demand. All these pieces are to be drawn 

and cut out with the proper allowance for a quarter inch edge turned as the 
occasion may be best suited. This way of cutting each member of this 
molding is followed in most shops that are not provided with special ma¬ 
chines for turning out the shapes for finished moldings. The really difficult 
shape to get out is the curve molding D; that is for most cornice workers 
and beginners, but it is in reality no more difficult than the development of 
any conical shape, if certain fixed rules governing this class of work are 
followed. For a shape as called for by the profile Fig. 50, from points A 
to B, for its outward curve, and for its longest curve from right to left, as 
Fig. 49 gives one-half of, from X to X',the first step to develop the required 
pattern is to proceed as follows: Make the radius the same as that used for 
the development of Fig. 49, as the line from A to 0 gives for this particular 
curve in this figure, No. 51. In fact, from 0 to A and B is an exact repro¬ 
duction of the same corresponding part of Fig. 49. Draw the profile for 
this member as demanded by Fig. 50, as is shown by A, 1 to 2, of Fig. 51. 
Draw line B solid across the face of the molding; also the line D to D' at 
any distance from line B. The line, if extended from point D through 
point D', must cut point 0. Draw the curve D to D' same as the profile 1 
to 2. Divide curve D to D' int© any number of equal parts. In this case I 
have done so into four equal parts. Then from point 0, as center, draw the 
curves as shown through the line D to D', cutting the points 1 to 3 as pre¬ 
viously found, and extend the same to curve 0 to S. This curve 0 to S is 
the same as shown at the end of the same number in Fig. 49, and the dis¬ 
tances are as a consequence the same from this line X" to 0 at all points of 
its length to the curve X of Fig. 49, as they are from the lines B to S and 
curve 0 to S of Fig. 51. This done the next operation is to draw the line 
1, 2 to the point C' of Fig. 51. Extend the same some distance above the 
point 1, as is shown in the Fig. 51, above point 1. The reason for this 
will become apparent further on. It will be seen that the line 1, 2 to point 
C" just cuts the most inward points of the curve 1 to 2 and and also that 
the line from point 0" to point 0 is at right argles to line A, 2 to C. To 
give a more comprehensive exposition of the reasons why these lines are 
thus placed, in the first place imagine the profile that the points A, 1 to 2 
gives, to be hinged solid at the line A to 2 so that the same could not be 
moved either up or down, but could be swung around from its present p’ace, 
so as to assume a position at right angles from the one that the curve 
1 to 2 now has. That is, so that the curve 1 to 2 would face, or would bq 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


47 


in the direction of the person looking at the drawing, if the same is at right 
angles to his line of vision, straight ahead. The curve would appear to him 
as a straight line, and instead of appearing as it now does, would simply 
merge itself into line A to 2. Now if the curve 1 to 2 had been turned or 
swung around as described, and also at the same time the line 1, 2 to C" 



2 to C, but the distance of the length of line C' to C away from point C on 
the same plane. This is the position of jthe poit C" established on the 
same plane, behind point C; by this the line 1, 2 to C" as projected through 
these points, the true length of line 1, 2 to C" is shown and gives the data 
or its actual length, and with the especial advantages that descriptive 
geometry gives to us, we are enabled to do all the foregoing in one plane 







48 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


as has been done in Fig. 51, by one view only, by simply swinging the 
profile and also the line 1, 2 to O' into the same plane that the front view 
is in. 

The line 1, 2 to C", from C" as center, is the radius; draw the curve 
from point 2 to point 3, this curve to be equal in length to the curve S D 
to 2 of K. Draw the curve 1 to point 4 in the same manner and equal in 
length to the curve I to B. Divide the space between the curves thus 
drawn into four equal parts; from C" as center draw curves as shown, cut¬ 
ting the points thus found as in the pattern X. Transfer the distances 
from the lines 1, 2 and 3 of part K, contained between the space B S and 
0, to the lines numbered the same in the pattern part X. The distances so 
transferred are set off in the space contained between the lines 4 to 5 and 
the points Nos. 1, 2, 3' and 3 of the pattern X. The points 1, 2, 3' 
and 3 being thus established, a free hand line may be drawn through them. 
This gives the curve demanded by Fig. 49 at the end X of the outward 
curve. If the pattern for the pieces just described is to be raised to shape 
by hand it is advisable not to add any more to the same in width; 
that is, do not try to make any more of the curves than the curve 
X out of one piece. If a forming machine is to be used the curves A' and 
B' may be added. The whole development is fully given. The lines 
A 3 and R are for the top bends and lines B 8 andK for the bottom bends. It is 
understood that if the forming machine is used the proper shaped dies for 
the same are used as demanded by the profile. If the curved molding X 
and also the other square mitering curves are made by hand, all laps mus- 
be allowed for in the development of each part. The foregoing operations 
may be briefly termed the development of the patterns for a curved molding 
the profile of the same having its curve outwardly or convex. The mold¬ 
ings when put together and completed will form the crown moldings of a 
segmented pediment. In raising or bumping the form to shape, care must 
be taken not to raise the curve too deep at the start nor to stretch the same 
too much. Be careful in all the operations in this kind of work. Begin¬ 
ners are very liable to be in too much of a hurry; they want to see the 
results of their hammering too soon and, as a consequence, commence to 
pound too hard in the start, thereby often raising the metal too deep and if 
not actually spoiling the work outright, they turn out a very poor job at the 
best. This last result being brought about by their attempting to undo 
with a lot of hammering on the material what their undue haste spoiled in 
the start. This would never have occurred if they had carefully felt their 
way along and made haste slowly until such time when by experience 
they had acquiied the necessary command over their tools and the 
skill and ability to judge all the nice points involved in getting out 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


49 


work of this kind quickly and well. These moldings can be made or 
cut out of as many pieces as is consistent with good judgment for 
saving material. Another factor entering into the work has to be consid¬ 
ered if a well proportioned job is to be done, that is how long each piece is 
to be cut so as to have the joints evenly divided in the length of each curve. 
These joints I leave to the workman to decide for himself. The joints 
can be made to butt against each other and a strip soldered over the junc¬ 
tion on the inside, or they may be made with lap joints, as the workman 
may decide to suit himself. 


-N 


3 

Fig. 52 

Fig. 52 gives the straight part of the miter that occurs at the point X 
of Fig. 49. This is a straight molding as to length; the profile is the same 
as that of the curve K of Fig. 51 and as a consequence is developed the 
same as a right-angled horizontal miter, which has been done as shown by 
Fig. 52. The modus operandi to develop a miter of this kind has been fully 
given in former articles and need not be repeated in this case. I will now 
describe how to develop the patterns for the flutes or rays for the Fig. 49. 
It will be seen that the entire number of flutes for this section is twenty- 
five. The figure gives half that number. In drawing out the working 
drawings, make these members full size and very exact. There are two or 
three ways to get these pieces out. One is to cut the entire field out of one 
piece, curving the flutes as demanded, and also the other bends. This way 
I do not regard as very practicable. The usual way to get out the pieces 
is to take each flute separately. In this instance I will take the one marked 
2. Get the profile of both ends as in Fig. 58; A for small end and C for 
the large end. The stretch out is developed by obtaining the length of the 
flute 2 of Fig. 49, from B to A. Make the distance from 1 to 2 of Fig. 53 
equal to the corresponding one in flute No. 2 of Fig. 49, as is done in Fig. 
53, for the length of the same. For the width of the small end, the curve 
A gives the stretch-out; for the large end the curve 0 answers the desired 
purpose. Draw the straight lines at the ends of the angle as the ends of 
flute 2 of Fig. 49 demand. This stretch-out is formed as the two forms of 
the ends require. For the rounding end piece D, make the line N to N' 
equal to the curve of C, and the distance from S to S' equal to whatever the 
curve of part C demands which is in a line at right angles to the line N, 
N' of D. Connect the points N, S, N' by the curve as shown; then con- 















50 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


nect the points N, N'by a sliglitly curved line; this extra allowance of 
material is to allow for the draw in raising, and also if the edge becomes 
frayed during the hammering and stretching process so that the same may 
be trimmed off straight and be fitted to the flute. To develop the center 
piece H, of Fig. 49, draw the front and side of Fig. 54 as the part A gives; 




from this the pattern B is obtained by a mode similar to that by which the 
pattern for the parts on the large ends of the flutes is obtained. The bal¬ 
ance of the flutes are to be developed in the same manner as described for 
the development of the patterns of the flute 2 of Fig. 49. The measure¬ 
ments to be suited by all the different flutes as the Fig. 49 demands for 
them. The method some use to get out this kind of work is to make the 
entire flute in one piece; that is, the straight curve and the end or round 
curve of each flute all out of one piece. This may be adopted if the work¬ 
man is so inclined, but I regard the way as described in detail as the cheaper 
and somewhat easier way to obtain the same result. The mode of fasten¬ 
ing the fluted section to the pediment is done in some shops by merely 
soldering the edges of the flutes together and then tacking the same into 
the place they are to occupy. Others would put a flat piece in at the back 
of the flute, as the line 3 to 4 of Fig. 50 gives; this last way is the best by 
all means. It makes a solider and better job all round. The part H is first 
soldered on to the back and then the flutes are put into position. This 
completes this part. The lower edge, which is fastened on to the straight 
part, is to be turned outward one inch, then riveted and soldered on to the 
lower section of the pediment. This one inch turn must be showed for in 
preliminary calculations when the patterns are drawn and cut out. The 
back of the entire pediment is to be flat, covered with tin. A suitable 
flange may by turned to lap the top or deck of the same over the edge of 
the lin, and nailed firmly over the same when finishing the work on the 
building. 












CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


51 


XIY. 

DETAILS AJMD PATTERNS FOR A FILIAL. 

The Figures 55 and 56 give the detailed drawings of the finial as the 
elevation, Fig. 29 of Article VI, show. These two figures are drawn to 
the scale of 1" to the foot. The full-size measurements are marked on the 
drawings. I will first describe a short method, to develop the pat¬ 
terns for part A of Fig. 55. The shape of this part is a frustum of a 
four-sided pyramid. The manner in which this shape may be developed 
for this case is as follows: Draw four lines bounding the numerals 1, 2, 3 




and 4. Make the lines 1, 2 and 3, 4 a distance apart equal to the slant 
height of the part A of Fig. 55. Connect points 1 to 8 and 2 to 4 of Fig. 
57. Continue these lines so that they will meet at the apex C. From C 
as center use line C to 3 as radius; draw the curve 5 to 6 and also curve 7 
to 8. Step off the distance from point 3 to 4 on each side for these two 
parts one and one-half times the length from 3 to 4 for each as shown. Do 
the same for the larger curve, as is shown in Fig. 57. Connect the points 
thus found by straight lines. Allow for lap on one end. The dotted line 
















































52 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


shown indicates where the curve of the top of the pediment cuts through 
this part. This gives all the necessary details how to lay out this shape in 
one piece. The edges to turn out so that the finial can be fastened to the 
deck of the pediment are to be allowed. This method is the shortest, 
quickest and cheapest method that can be used for the desired result. The 
four sides may also be made out of one piece for each side, one separate 
piece for all the three parts, A, B and C. This method I would advise to 
be used only if the sides of the parts A, B and C must be made in four 
pieces only; that is, one piece of the material making one side of all thre 
sections at one and the same time. This piece answers for a pattern for 
the three other sides; then all four pieces are bent to the shape as the out¬ 
line of parts A, B and C, of Fig. 55, gives. These should be soldered to 
gether strongly. Two of the sides are to have suitable laps allowed when 
the pieces are made and cut out. The development of part B of Fig. 55 is 
given in Fig. 58. Part A of this figure is the side view and profile of a 
horizontal molding with a square miter. The part B is a plan view, and 
shows a different way from that of A to get the data to develop the patterns 
for the miter pieces. Patt C is the pattern. Divide the profile part A into 
equal parts as 1 to 4 shows. This gives the first step for method number 
one. For method number two, the first part is given by B, Fig. 58. Line 



1 to 2 gives the miter line. The outlines of a vertical view or the plan are 
given by the lines 3, 2 to 4, and for the inside from 5, 1 to 6. The curve 
or quarter circle 7, 9, 10 and 4 gives one-lialf of the outline; this curve 
divided into equal parts as shown, and lines dropped to the miter line 1 to 

2 of B give the data for the first part of the second method. For the 
stretch-out, draw the line N to N/ any length; draw a perpendicular line 









CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


53 


at the center of line X to X' as the line 1' to 1" shows. Draw on both 
sides parallel lines as shown by the lines 2' to 4' and point 5. The same 
is done on the other side of line 1' to 1". The various distances of part A 
contained from line 6 to 5 and the point 1 to 4 and 5 may be transferred to 
the stretch-out C as has been done and is fully shown in the drawing, or 
the measures may be taken from part B from the distances contained be¬ 



tween the line 1, 8, 4 and the miter line 1 to 2. Both the methods as 
given accomplish the same result, but in themselves are somewhat different 
from each other. The part of the pattern between the points X, V to 1" 
is but a duplicate of the other half of part C and may be drawn in the 
same manner as that one has been done. Fig. 59 gives the development 
of part C of Fig. 55. A of Fig. 59 is one-half of one side of the desired 
shape. Divide this part into as many equal parts as desired. I have 
divided the same into six equal parts as is shown by the profile line by the 
numerals 1 to 7. Draw the stretch-out line of B from A to B equal in length 
to the profile line of A. Divide the line A to B of B into as many equal parts 
is part A has been divided into. Draw the perpendicular parallel lines 
1 to 7 as given. Make the distance from the center line to the out¬ 
line for each numbered line of B equal to the corresponding line in part 
A. Draw the curves free hand through the points where the distances end 
on the lines as found. Allow for laps on two of the pieces for the sides; 
























54 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


also for laps on all the four pieces at their respective top and bottom ends. 
The sides are to be formed to shape and soldered together. The foregoing 
descriptions of the three parts of Fig. 55 give all the patterns required for 
these sections and they may be made in three separate pieces. But if it is 
desired to make them in one piece, the patterns as developed may by placed 
on such a manner that they make but one pattern for each side of the four 
sides that are required for the finial. When this part of the finial is put 
together it will be well to put a bottom or a piece inside of the part at S S 
of part A of Fig. 55; also one at B, and one at or near the top end of part 
C. These bottoms tend to strengthen the structure and also to steady the 
rod made of pipe which passes through them, as is fully shown in Fig. 55. 
For the ball or part D a spun zinc ball may be used, such as can be bought 




from a dealer in ornaments used in this line. If it is preferred to make a 
ball for this purpose, and it should be decided to make one out of two parts 
the general directions given in Article XIII for raised work of this class will 
be found to cover this case sufficiently to enable the workman to obtain 
all the data required. Fig. 60, part A, gives the side and end elevations of 
the spear head. Line A to B gives a plan for the same at that point, and 
C to I) for the end. A gives a view of a short tube soldered on to the 
bottom end of the spear; the other end is to be slipped over the rod, fas¬ 
tened to it by a pin or bolt and also soldered to the same. The bottom 
end of the spear is to be rounded so as to join onto the round tube A. The 
parts 1 and 2 of B of Fig. 60 are the patterns for the spear. For the top 
part 1 make the center line A to B equal to A to B of part A. The length 
of line B to C of part 1 is equal to A' to B' of part A. 

From A to C of part 1 is equal to A to B of part A. Both sides of part 
1 are to be alike. This gives the pattern for one side of part 1. The bend 
is to be made on line A to B; lap3 may be made as suit? the fancy of the one 
getting out the work. For part 2, draw the center line, also line F to G- as 
shown. Make the distance from center line each way to F and G equal in 





















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


55 


length to the line A' B' of part A; the center line equal in length from 
line F G to line 1 to 2 of part A. The length of line H to L of part 2 is 
equal to line C to D of part A. Make the bend as demanded by the end 
elevations of part A on the center line of part 2. This gives all that is 
needed to get out the spear head. As to the arrow head and the feather 
end of the vane, the arrow head is made in a similar way to that employed 



in getting out the spear head, the measurements of this part to be followed 
as given by Fig. 56, as far as demanded by the drawings. The two parts of 
the feather end are to be soldered on to a tube as shown in Fig. 56. Each 
part is to be made double, that is, each part is to be one-half inch thick or 
is to have two sides, and a half-inch strip is soldered between the same. 




Fasten the arrow-bead and the other end securely to the rod or pipe. 
Full measurements for this part of the finial are given in Fig. 56. The 
ornaments as shown at E, Fig. 55, are made foi their side views, as 
the drawing shows, and they are to be three-quarters of an inch wide 
viewed from the end or the side at right angles to the one shown in the 
figure. There arc four of these pieces, one at each quarter of the rod ? all ip 




















56 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


one plane. The swivel joint as shown in Fig. 56, is made by a sleeve 
being fastened as shown. The four-way swivel, as shown, has the ends 
of the vane pipe screwed into its ends. The cross is fitted to the vertical 
rod or pipe, as shown, so that it turns easily. The entire measures for the 
vertical rod are given in the drawings. It would be well to let the rod 
down into the deck of the pediment when placing the finial into position, 


and then solder the edges of the part A firmly to the deck. Allowance must 
be made for the above when constructing the finial at the shop. The Fig¬ 
ures 61 and 62 show the front and side view of the ornaments for the ends 
of the ^op of the pediment. Fig. 63 gives a plan view of the same. Fig. 
64 gives a front view of the center ornament of one side of the finial. All 
these ornaments are to be of zinc, stamped to shape, or of a pattern some¬ 
what similar, as the figures show. 




XV. 


BT{KC1 HOS AND FASTENINGS op CORNICES to 

BUILiDINGS. 

The putting up of the cornice on the building is the last part of the en¬ 
tire work to be done in connection with the cornice, as described in Article 
V, Fig. 25. I may say that in no department of the work is it more neces¬ 
sary that good and careful work should be done than in this. It must not 
be imagined that simply because a good part of cornice work, by reason of 
ts almost inaccessible position, is beyond critical examination, that it can 
be done in any niancer that inferior and indifferent workmen choose to do 
it. It is not to be wondered at that work which ought to last a life-time, 
commences to show defects in a short time after it has been put up on 





CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


57 


buildings, when it shows badly jointed connections, wide open gaping 
seams, very irregular lining up, poor soldering and worse riveting. All the 
foregoing is generally the fault of firms sending out too much talent of the 
rough and ready sort, too many cheap roustabouts and helpers, when 
really the work ought to be done by good, careful, first-class mechanics of 
the highest grade of intelligence to be found among cornice men. It is an 
easy matter for a botchy workman to spoil the beauty and general sym¬ 
metry of almost any cornice, no matter how well made in the shop in the 
first place, by his bungling, unmechanical way of doing the work on the 
building in its final finishing stage. The idea is to only entrust work of 
this kind to men who can do first-class work neatly, quickly and in tiie end 
far cheaper than poor or “jerry” workmen could possibly do the same. One 
of the reasons why a good many first-class workmen do not care to do out¬ 
side work of this kind is that in many cases they do not like high climbing; 
also, the work to some extent is rather rough and hard on clothes, etc. 
Then, too, we all know how much more agreeable it is to work in the shop 
on inside work. But for all this, the work on a building, to be fully up to 
a first-class standard, must be done well, and it takes capable men to do it. 
The foregoing is rather a severe view of this matter, but I believe a just 
one. This should rather stimulate the student to become a first-class man, 
which is imperative in order to be able to do the highest class of work in 
the cornice trade. 

Having pointed out what to do and how it should be done properly, I 
will give a few different methods how this kind of work is performed. One 
of the first considerations when arrangements for putting up a cornice are 
made is to know if it is to be put up in pieces and sections, or if the cor¬ 
nice is to be put up in the whole, that is, the entire structure all at once in 
one piece. This point determined on, it is in order to make all prepara¬ 
tions for the special way that the work is to be done. The first method 
that I will discuss is this: Let it be supposed that the wall has already 
been built up and finished so far as the brick work connected with it is 
concerned. The problem in this case is how to provide suitable and ade¬ 
quate means to fasten, brace and hold or anchor the structure permanently 
into the final position which it is to occupy on the wall cf the building. 

The means to attain all this is shown in Fig. 65. In this fig. 
ure the general outline of the cornice under consideration is given. The 
line A, A' gives the outside face of the wall as built; B is the foot molding. 
I will first describe how to make this part of the work ready for the recep¬ 
tion of the cornice. It will be noticed that the board, No. 1, is placed 
against the face of the wall. To make this board fast, it is customary to 
drive wooden plugs into the mortar spaces between the bricks; then nail the 


58 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 



board No. 1 securely to the wall, using the places where the wooden plugs 
are wherein to drive the nails securely. Have the board No. 1 perfectly 
straight and even, or in line. * 

Small brackets may be nailed at the top end of board, as the piece 
No. 3 gives, to support the board on top as No. 2 shows. This gives the 
support for the foot molding and extends along the front of the entire 
foot molding of the cornice. The section view, as given by B of this 
part, is to be made in all its particulars as the profile demands. For the 
upper part of the cornice the board, as D shows, may be fastened to 


the wall in the same general manner as the board No. 1 of B has been. 
The board D is also to be put up perfectly straight and in line every way, 
as demanded for perfect correctness, and as the measurements of the cor- 
nice call for. This is all clearly shown m the drawing, Fig. 65. As the 
deck of this cornice projects out from the face of the wall, the top sheath- 



















































































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


59 


mg boards of the same a e made to project out the required distance as de¬ 
manded by the elevation of the cornice. The brackets, as 0 gives, may be 
placed as shown. The distances apart to place them are mainly governed 
by the circumstan ‘,es in th) case wherein they are used. About three or four 
feet apart will d ) for this case. If a very heavy cornice is placed by this 
method correspondingly more brackets are needed. The idea is to make the 
woodwork strong and firm enough to be secure and bear the load wi h a 
good margin for safety and durability under all conditions. This part of 
the work done and ready to receive the cornice the same may be put up in 
sections or the entire structure may be put up in one piece. 

If the cornice is to be put up in sections, a convenient method 
would be to make that part embracing the foot molding, beginning at E, 
also the panel section, dentil course and planceer, ending at F, so that all 
will be in one section, finished and ready to go on to the building. It i s 
understood, of course, that Fig. 65 gives only an outline drawing of the 
cornice. This is done in order to avoid confusion of lines. 

The parts enumerated may be hoisted up into place, then fastened 
permanently to the boards on to the face of the wall as shown in Fig. 65. 
This may be done by nailing the parts to the woodwork at suitable places 
and intervals wherever the design offers opportunity to do so. The next 
sections embrace from point F of the fascia band, the crown molding, deck 
molding and deck—in short the balance of the entire cornice. It will be 
noticed that from point H to K this part of the cornice is braced. These 
braces may be used, one every three or four feet apart. The connection at 
point F is made by the fascia band being cleated to the planceer as shown. 
The part for the deck is nailed to the sheathing boards as may be required. 
The foregoing is a cheap way to put up a cornice, but if well done makes 
a fairly good job. A somewhat better and stronger way is to use wooden 
lookouts for tin's purpose. These are set into the brickwork, as in Fig. 66. 
For the cornice under consideration the lookouts may be shaped as the 
drawing for the foot molding from 1, 2 to 3 gives; the board A (an end 
view of which is shown), is to be nailed on these lookouts or brackets. All 
this work must be done smoothly and in line throughout so as to insure 
a good and even foundation for this section. The lookouts or brackets for 
the upper sections are to be bricked in as the drawing shows. The shapes 
of these brackets are to conform to the general outline of the design of the 
cornice. The boards B and the deck sheathing C are to be made and put in 
position as the drawings require. At E is shown where, at intervals a 
piece or block of wood has been bricked into the wall instead of a brick; 

these are used to nail fast to the wall those parts of the cornice that come in 

% 


60 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


contact with them. These pieces are called by some wooden bricks. It 
will readily be seen that this method offers a solid bed and foundation for 
the cornice to be fastened to, and is to be recommended where a job of this 
class is desired to have at once great solidity and a strong bed. With this 
style of brackets and arrangements the cornice may either be put up in one 
piece or in sections as desired. In some cases it is necessary to use an out¬ 
side scaffold as it would be impossible to get at some of the parts without 
one. In the next article I will give some styles that would be very handy 
for this cornice. Fig. 67 gives a mode to put up the cornice with iron an¬ 
chors, braces and wires; in fact making the same fire-proof throughout. 
There is not a particle of woodwork about the whole construction of the 
cornice. There are three courses of anchors used as the three letters A, B 
and C give. The general arrangement of bracing is shown in the figure. 
The cornice may be got out in the same general manner as described be¬ 
fore with wooden lookouts. 











































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


61 


The section from H to F may first be put up; the anchors in line with 
A may be bricked into position as also those at B. The lower section may 
then be placed in position and bolted to the braces of the cornice, as at H 
and at K. After this is done the brickwork may be carried up to the top, 
then the upper sections may be hoisted into place and made fast to the an¬ 
chors as is shown in Fig. 67. The joint at F forms a drip and is bent so 
as to form a cleat joint on to and over the downward bend of the outer edge 



of the planceer. This makes a neat finish at this connection. The brace 
or part of the wrought iron lookout, as shown by the letter 0, to which the 
planceer is fastened, may be made so as to have a joint, as is given by the 
drawing at point K, that is, if the cornice is put up in sections. The brace 
S is placed in the position as shown, to impart rigidity and firmness to the 
upper deck of the cornice. If the cornice is to be put up in one piece, the 













































































































62 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


• * m • m ' /V7.S3 

main braces, as from C, D, 0, L, R to A, may each be made in one piece 

and fastened as shown at their two ends at point K. A lug may be fas¬ 
tened to the braces so that they may be bolted to the anchors, as the de¬ 
tails are given in Fig. 68; B is the anchor, K is the connection and 0 is 
a section of one of the main braces. Fig. 69 gives the details of the con¬ 
nection as described for Fig. 67 at K. The methods so far described that 
would be suitable for this cornice to obtain the ends aimed at, namely, to 
brace the cornice sufficiently for strength and durability so that it will re¬ 
tain its shape when it is placed in its final position on the building, and also 
the style of lookouts, both for wood and iron as given, need not be consid¬ 
ered as arbitrary or the only ones that could be used for the purpose. 

These styles and methods have been given merely to show some good 
ways by which it may be done. In almost every shop the powers that be 
have their own peculiar systems in practice, some differing from the system 
as given in this article. But I may be permitted to suggest that the me¬ 
thods as presented I consider as equal to any in point of strength, simplicity, 
ease in putting up the cornice as well as for cheapness. The main aim for 
work of this class should be to make it as simple in form and shape as is 
consistent with the use it is to be put to. Make as few bends and turns as 
possible but so as to conform to the general shape and profile of the de¬ 
sign of the cornice that they are intended for. These few hints it will be 
well to bear in mind when laying out work of this class. As to the number 
of braces to use, as Fig. 65 shows, six will do, two for each end section and 
two for the 3" projecting center part. In the Figs. 65, 66 and 67 the 
3" projecting parts are not shown in order to avoid a multiplicity of lines 
and to present the drawings in as simple a shape as possible. The braces, 
lookouts and other particular features for the 3" projecting parts can readi¬ 
ly be made for these from the profile as given by Fig. 27 of Article V. This 
makes it unnecessary to give a special drawing for these parts. The pro¬ 
jecting parts from the foot molding to the planceer, or the brackets, den¬ 
tils, etc., are shown by dotted lines in the Figs. 65 to 67. 

In fastening the stays and braces to the galvanized iron surfaces where- 
ever this may occur, use flat headed bolts or use washers large enough to 
give the heads a good flat bearing against the iron so as to avoid the tear¬ 
ing out or drawing through of small bolt heads through the parts that have 
to bear the strain of holding the cornice in position on the building. The 
fastenings for the pediment, if it is to have no woodwork, would be to 
make the braces and stays to conform to its profile and fasten these with 
bolts to the braces of the cornice, and also to lugs in the rear of the pedi¬ 
ment on to the wall. It would hardly be necessary to add any wooden 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


63 


braces into the inside of the pediment even if the wooden lookouts are used 
for the cornice. In any case the pediment should be braced firmly and 
strong enough so as to meet any demand that might be imposed on it by 
windy and severe weather. The rod of the finial could be made long 
enough so as to pass through the entire structure of the pediment and be 



fastened to the solid deck of the cornice. If wooden braces are decided on, 
to be used on the inside of the pediment of this cornice, it would be well 
to nail a board on to the top of the cornice deck, the same conforming to 
the general outline of the shape as the bottom section of the pediment has. 
A flange may or could also be fastened to this board in such a shape and in 



the exact position which would be demanded for it so that the rod of the 
finial could be screwed in the same. This would greatly aid in securing 
additional rigidity to the lower end of the rod. The placing in position of 
the pediment would be the last operation necessary to finish the entire 
work connected with this cornice as given by Fig. 25 of Article V. 



















































64 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


STAGING AND SCAFFOLDING FOR cornige WORK. 

xvr. 

In this article I will give a few of the most handy and serviceable 
styles of quickly made stagings and scaffolding in use. Some of the spe¬ 
cial features that should be possessed by appliances of this kind are that 
they must be strong and trustworthy in every respect. Then thdr cost 
must be within reasonable bounds, and they should be light and easily 
handled so that they can be readily erected as wanted, and also that they 
i*an be removed without too much labor and trouble. In order to meet the 
demands for safety I favor the us9 of f" bolts for all the main joints and 
fastenings occurring in the make-up of a first-class scaffolding as used in 
cornice work. Take, for instance, the style of stagings that are generally 
used by painters and to some extent by some reckless cornice men. These 
stagings are usually fastened at the top of the buildings by long iron 
hooks, often made of such a poor quality of iron as to be practically useless 
if they are required to support more than the weight of one or, at most, of 
two men. Then the other way to fasten the ropes and pulleys by means of 
long planks projecting over the cornice far enough to tie the sustaining 
ropes to, while the other ends of the planks are held down by pieces of 
lumber or stones, etc., does not tend very much to make the workmen us¬ 
ing a make-sliift rig of this kind feel any too safe, or to any extent to ease 
their minds while putting up cornice work on buildings. Another great 
fault is the instability of this kind of staging; every movement made by the 
workmen causes the whole concern to sway back and forth. TLa reasons 
given above are enough to make almjst any workman willing to forego 
this doubtful pleasure cf working on a rigging of this kind, and I may add, 
it is small wonder that many will not do out side work when such contri¬ 
vances as the foregoing are tendered to them to use. Contrasting the scaffold¬ 
ing or staging as shown by Fig. 70 with the ordinary swinging scaffold, (he 
style as given by the Fig. 70 is to be preferred in every way as far as safety, 
strength and stability are concerned. 

The supports, as shown by this figure, are of a kind upon which no 
workman need hesitate to trust himself. The drawing shows the general 
scheme of this scaffolding so plainly that no very lengthy description of 
the reasons are necessary to be given why it is built in the style show'n. 
The timber A is a 2"x6" piece of plank. The pieces B, C, D and E are all 2'' 
x5". The three boards, X to X, are laid on to E and are used to walk and 
work upon. The strips of one inch stuff, a9 shown, are nailed to the staging 
and serve as a ladder to enable the workmen to reach the top parts of the 
work and also to ascend to the roof should they so desire. F and G are 
the braces that hold the entire scaffolding to the walls and roofs. As an 
extra safeguard the fastening as shown by the rope H is here introduced to 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


65 


show how to arrange the same in case such extra help is deemed necessary. 
The eye-bolt shown in the figure should be made good and strong so as to 
be reliable in all cases. It will be noticed that all the main fastenings are 
bolted together. For this purpose I would always advise the use of heavy 
bolts, net lighter than in any case. My reason for advising the use of 
bolts in preference to nails, etc., is that when the scaffolding is out of use 
the bolts can be taken out and the scaffolding packed away in a compact 
form,which would not be possible if the joints had all been nailed together. 



In the latter case, in the attempt to take them apart, the probabilities are 
that the timbers of which the scaffolding is composed would all be more or 
less damaged. One point to be borne in mind when designing a set of 
scaffolding of the general kind as Fig..70 gives, is to have all the main sup¬ 
ports of the right length. Take, for instance, the brace E of the figure. 
It will be noticed that the end of this brace rests against the front of the 
wall, holding the entire structure in an upright position and the horizontal 
parts level. If this timber is either a little too long or too short it is at 
once apparent that the whole structure will be out of plumb, thereby the 
strain on all the parts are out of proportion to that which they are intended 
to bear. The idea is to have all the parts just right; a careful study of the 
peculiarities of the staging as shown in Fig. 70 is recommended. I may 
add that I have used scaffolding of this kind on some of the loftiest build- 































































































66 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 




ings in the country and have always found them superior to any other style 
that has ever come to my notice. The staging as shown by Fig. 71 is one 
of a variety of styles used on very high buildings and generally when one or 
more stories are added to a building already erected, and in some cases even 
before it has ever been contemplated that any more stories would be added 
to the structure. It will be seen upon close, inspection that this style of 
staging does not in the least interfere with the occupancy of the story im¬ 
mediately underneath the same, and for this reason it is a special favor¬ 
ite with many builders and cornice men. 

Each one of these brackets is composed of three pieces. The timber 
A and also the piece B may be made out of a 2"x6" piece. C may be made 
of lighter stuff; a piece lj"x5" will do for this brace. This style bracket 
may be bolted together, but as it is more the custom to nail the parts of 
this kind of bracket together this may be done. As the dimensions 






































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 6? 

and measurements for each particular job are almost invariably different 
from any other it is obvious that it is not necessary to be too particular in 
trying to save the material for another job. The flooring and the front 
guard of this kind of scaffolding is all plainly shown in the drawing. This 
particular style of staging is generally used by cornice workers where the 
added story of a building has a galvanized iron or copper front, and on 
buildings that are occupied by tenants during the time that the work is go¬ 
ing on. Fig. 72 shows a style of bracket that is generally used where the 
story from which the scaffold is built may be utilized for this purpose. 
The main upright timber of this bracket is made of 2"x6" material, and is 
placed on the inside of the building resting on the floor on its lower end, 
and braced or cleated to the same to prevent its slipping inwardly. A small 
block, nailed to the floor as shown, is generally all that is necessary to ac¬ 
complish this purpose. The horizontal piece A is bolted to the upright, as 
is also the piece B; this is shown in the drawing. 

The brace C is placed in its relative position to prevent the upper part 
from giving way toward the inside of the house; this brace also makes 
the bracket stiff and unyielding. In no style of scaffolding are the good 
points of bolting the main parts together so apparent as in this kind. It 
will be noticed that in the main parts of this bracket there are a number of 
holes for bolts in each piece so that this bracket can very readily be adjusted 
to almost any case or condition that may come up in ordinary work. The 
flooring for this scaffold is plainly shown in the drawing, as are also a 
number of pieces that are nailed to the upright, and to the piece B, to be 
used as a ladder for the men to ascend or descend as may be required dur¬ 
ing the progress of the work. Fig. 73 shows a double scaffold often made 
use of in putting up galvanized iron fronts, etc. As the drawing shows, 
all the main timbers are. bolted together and are made so that they can be 
adjusted so as to fit almost any case. The flooring for both the upper and 
lower staging is all plainly shown. The braces are so plainly given that 
no amount of description could add to a clearer understanding of the draw¬ 
ing as given by Fig. 73. The strips that serve for a ladder in the upper 
section of the scaffolding may be nailed to the pieces as shown. The four 
varieties of stagings and scaffolding as given by Figs. 70 to 73 are exam¬ 
ples of what may be considered the best practice for cornice work generally 
These styles, with a little variation from the shapes as given, may be 
adapted to nearly any case that is liable to come up in practical work as 
far as the putting up of cornices is concerned. The workman, in case he 
had to put up a cornice of the class as the Fig. 25 of Article V gives an 
example of, will find an ample variety of staging among the drawings to 
select? from. 

A word on the proper care and preservation of tools and appliances as 


68 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


used on outside work. The pieces and parts of scaffolding should be made of 
good sound timber and if of interchangeable and adjustable kinds of scaffold¬ 
ing, they should be planed and painted. This adds greatly to the length of 
time that the wood will remain in good condition and fit for hard service. 
When the scaffolding is not in use, have it carefully stored away under 
shelter in a dry place. Have system enough in storing the same away that 



any piece whenever wanted can readily he found. Have all ropes, tackle, 
etc., in their proper place. In order to he able to do this a place must be 
provided for everything. Have pegs or hooks fixed so that each coil of rope 
can be hung up. See that this is done at once when they are brought back 
from any job. A few minutes devoted to neatly coiling a lot of ropes and 
properly hanging them up in their proper places when they are first brought 
in from a job will often save hours of vexatious unraveling of a lot of tangled 
and carelessly piled up ropes and tackle, which is often the case where no 
order or system is followed in taking care of these tools and appliances 
while they are not in use. 




























































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


69 


XVH. 

01^AmE]SlT STRCClPlfiO mACpifiE. 

In the preceding Articles, a complete exposition of the details entering 
into the entire work embraced in all branches required to complete a cor¬ 
nice as given by the Figs. 25, 26 and 27, of Article V, has been given. 



To be more precise and minute, the work as described commenced with 
detailed instructions, giving full explanations how to read and measure up 
the drawings as submitted to the student, thus enabling him to ascertain 























































70 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


the entire amount of iron, etc., contained in and required for this cornice. 
Following the foregoing it has been shown how to figure the weight and 
also how long it would require to construct this cornice according to the 
best practice, this supplemented by all necessary tables and rules. This 
gave the preliminary office work or estimating part of this cornice. The 
next step described was to arrange the drawings so that when the parts 
were laid and cut out of the iron, this could be done with the least possible 
waste of material. Then followed the entire modus operandi necessary to 
obtain all the patterns, tem-plates, etc., of all the miters and connections; 
in fact it gave and showed how to lay out every inch of iron m the entire struc¬ 
ture,from the foot molding to the top spear head of the finial. Following this 
various modes and ways were given to join these pieces together either in 
sections or in the whole; and finally it was shown how to brace, and vari¬ 
ous ways were given to fasten the cornice to the building. It may have 
been noticed that for the ornamental part of the work reference has fre¬ 
quently been made to stamped zinc or iron ornaments used on this cornice. 
These are generally bought from dealers throughout the country. It fre¬ 
quently happens that special designs not to be found in the catalogues or 
kept in stock by dealers are wanted and insisted upon to be used by stub¬ 
born or perverse architects. This makes it imperative that the desired pat¬ 
tern or design be used by the cornice*maker. If he has to write to the 
manufacturer and the latter in turn has to get out the required dies and de¬ 
signs, it is easily seen that this entails a considerable cost to the party who 
is getting out the cornice in question, not considering the loss of time and 
possible delay in getting the goods when wanted. To avoid some of the 
foregoing vexatious delays and heavy expenses, and to show an easy and 
cheap way for every cornice maker to provide himself for his shop a cheap, 
simple and easily made machine for the purpose of getting out this work 
the designs, as Figs. 74 to 76 show, have been prepared to meet this want. 
This machine has proven itself to do the work most satisfactorily in a good 
maDy shops and has this to recommend it—that it does not require much 
room to place it in position and can be constructed by almost any mechanic 
of ordinary ability. Fig. 74 gives the front elevation or view; Fig. 75 
gives the side and Fig. 76 the plan. The first thing to get is a block of 
wood about 18" square, or round for that matter, if so desired. This may be 
of a height as suits the party getting up the machine. If it is desired to put it 
on the floor of the shop, for the foundation I would suggest to make the 
block from 18" to 24" high; this gives the most convenient height for work. 
Next take a piece of hardwood plank about 8" thick by 8'long and 18" 
wide, as the drawing gives. This is to be fastened securely to the block as 
shown. Have these parts perfectly square and true every way. This gives 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


71 


the wood-work for the foundations and bed of the machine. The upper 
parts are usually made of steam or gas pipe. Select two well-joined and 
smooth pieces of 1^ pipe; these are to be of the length as required from 
the bottom of the 3 plank, allowing for space for a lock nut fRnge, as 
shown at 1, 1 , of Rig. 74, up to the ceiling at 2, 2' of the same figure- 



In this case it is supposed that the upright guides are secured at their 
upper ends at the ceiling. Where it is not practicable to do so, a suitable 
bracket may be rigged up to answer this purpose. Make the center pipe or 
main lift and drop guide of the length as given from 3a to 4a of Fig. 74. 




























































































72 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


Thread it up or down far enough so that the cross tees can be secured into 
their respective positions, as shown at 5 and 6. 

The four three way tees as X, X' and 0, 0' show, are to be screwed 
to cross-pieces of pipes as shown, but those parts of the tees that are to 
slide up and down on the guide-posts are to be filed and fitted so that 
they are a nice fit, not too loose nor too tight, so that they keep the center 
plunger in its exact required position at all times. This done, provide a 
cap at the upper end of the center pipe with a ring attached to it, as shown 
at 8a of Fig. 74. At the lower end secure a flange, as shown at C; note a 
flange of this sort is required for each male die made for stamping; this 
will be more fully explained further on. The various pieces as described 
in the foregoing are to be got out and joined together as the drawing 
shows. The flanges at the ends of the uprights are then screwed on 
as shown in the drawing. Each piece must be cut and threaded so as to 
be just right and when put together as directed a machine as the front 
elevation, Fig. 74, shows is the result. 

Referring to the Fig. 75, the manner in which the lever with which 
the drop is operated is secured, is shown by the hook at the end of the 
same. This hook fits into the ring shown at the upper end of the center at 
8a of Fig. 74. At S of Fig. 75 is shown how the lever is secured to obtain 
the lift to raise the plunger; this rod is fastened at its other end at any 
convenient point, so as to obtain the proper leverage as may be desired f 
according to how much drop it is desired the machine should have. This 
lever can also be so arranged that it can be pressed down when the first 
operation on the impression is commenced between the dies on the ma¬ 
terial, and then, by simply shifting the lever to another hook, the machine 
can be changed to a drop press. 

Fig. 76 gives the plan, showing the proper relative positions of the parts 
from that point of view. The foregoing gives all the particulars entering 
into the construction of the machine; the next item to be considered is how 
to make the dies, both male and female, or the top and bottom dies, and 
also how to secure them in their proper positions. A good way to secure 
this last object is to make a pattern and have a bed-plate cast, as Figs. 74 
and 75 show at K and at K'. Having determined on the size wanted, have 
it made and fasten it to the 3" plank, as shown in Fig. 74. It will be 
noticed that there are four lugs, one at each side on the bed-plate; through 
each one of these a set-screw passes, which, when all four set-screws 
are screwed up tightly, secures the bottom die firmly in its proper place, as 
required. These set-screws, being of the proper length, can be adjusted so 
that any size die may be used as the occasion or the work may demand. 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


73 


The dies, as a matter of course, can not be any larger than the bed-plate 
can accommodate. The last and at the same time one of the most im¬ 
portant oparat ons is that of making the dies. One of the cheapest ways 
of accomplishing this result is to take an ornament which it is desired to 
duplicate and make a box of the size it is desired the outside of the die to 



be. Take a clear cut, or in other words, a well stamped figure, And place 
this in such a position as is required for the female die; tack or solder this 
to the top edges of the box made for the same. Turn this box upside down 
and fill it full of plaster of Paris. (The form or shape of this box must be 
made so that the set plaster cast will readily come out of the mold.) When 
































74 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


this has hardened, have a cast-iron die cast from it. The cost of this bot¬ 
tom die will be about 2L cents per pound. One point to be followed in 
having work of this kind done is to have it done by a firm that has the 
proper talent, or in other words, one that employs mechanics capable of 
doing good, smooth work, and also one that uses good iron from which to 
make the easting. Having obtained the bottom die, file and finish the same 



perfectly smooth and clean. Then place the bottom die in its proper posi¬ 
tion on the bed plate and screw it up tightly in the machine. Make a rim 
as high as it is desired to have the male die when done. This rim is to fit 
tightly on or over the bottom die. Next screw a flange, as shown in the 
drawing, to the lower end of the plunger, as C gives. This is let down 
into position as demanded by the drawings. Now, in order to get the cor¬ 
rect shape and form of the male die, lay the ornament or figure from which 
the bottom die has been cast into the same. Be careful to have the side of 
the ornament which will be exposed to the hot metal smoked, that is, pre¬ 
pared so that it will not solder or stick fast to the die when the same cools 
and is completed. When the male die is finished and hardened, raise the 
plunger and unscrew the die from the lower end of the same. This can 
easily be done by reason of the way the flange is fastened in the die. This 
method of fastening also enables the workman to very readily change from 
one set of dies to another without much bother. The upper or male di'e 
may be cast from a composition of lead and zinc, as lead alone would be 
too soft. Where permanent dies are desired, I would advise to have them 
made of cast iron, but the composition dies do fairly well for several hun¬ 
dred impressions, when iron is used for the material from which the orna¬ 
ments are made. In ca3e sheet zinc is used, th) material must be heated 
so as to render it pliable and not to expose it to the danger of cracking and 
breaking during the process of forming it to shape between the dies of the 
machine. The necessity for heating the zinc sheets is readily seen by any 
one who has even a casual knowledge of the brittle nature of this material, 
and its great liability to break and crack when b .nt from its flat state in the 































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


75 


sheets, in which it is commonly used. J may also add that a composition 
die as described may answer for as high as a thousand impressions, when 
the material from which the ornaments are made is sheet zinc, properly 
heated and prepared. In case a special design is wanted, hammer out the 
shape as desired, and in case a great many ornaments of the same kind 
and design are required, follow the way which has been given to make the 
dies as wanted. Although the above described machine may not be the 
ideal or most perfect one that could be designed for the end sought, I 
nevertheless consider it a Very good one, and about as cheap a machine as 
could be made, being at the same time a strong tool and capable of doing 
good work. The operation of stamping the ornaments is as follows: Place 
the plate on the bottom die, raise the male or plunger die by means of the 
lever to the proper extent, as allowed by the machine; then let the plunger 
diop. Repeat this several times, until the perfee* impression is obtained. 
Trim all frayed edges from the ornament. The latter is then ready to be 
used for the purpose for which it is intended. 


XVIII. 

THE MAHAGEmEHT OF 1ROPES #H£> HOISTIHG TACKLE. 

In this article I will give some of the most used methods of tying 
knots, the making of fastenings, some general hints for the preservation of 
ropes, etc., how splices are made, in short, will give some much-needed 
information to cornice men on these subjects. This will be of benefit in 
particular to those who have much outside work to do, as in connection 
with this branch there is always more or less use for ropes, tackling, and 
the general management of hoisting work into place and position on a job. 
It has been my experience with most workmen whom I have come in contact 
with who were connected with the outside branch of cornice-work, that the 
greater number of them have but a very limited knowledge on this subject, 
many not even having the ability to tie some of the most simple knots, or 
to make fast the end of a rope by a simple hitch. A careful study of this 
article and the figures shown is reoommmended to the student. I believe 
that even those who have some knowledge of the matter here presented, as 
well as those who have but a casual acquaintance with this important and 
useful branch, will be benefited by thoroughly understanding and making 
themselves masters of the instructions here given, which will materially add 
to their efficiency as workmen. Evidences of the lack of knowledge on this 
subject are met with in. our trade on every hand, but chiefly in the expense 



76 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


account of firms who have men working for them who sometimes waste 
valuable time by the bungling way that they go about doing some of the 
simplest jobs of getting material and stock to the places on buildings where 
it is desired to do the work. Men often climb ladders, carrying up with 
them heavy loads, with great discomfort to themselves and much hard 
work, when the same end could be attained (with time saved and the v, ork- 
men not all tired-out, whieh follows the disagreeable and heavy lugging 
that they have undergone) with ease and comfort to themselves, had they 



known in the first place how to arrange some simple hoisting rig to hoist 
the material to the roof. Numerous other instances could be cited, but this 
will suffice to show that the main idea should be to get the work in place, 
and that as quickly and easily as possible, in the least expensive manner 
that the ingenuity of the workmen will permit. A reasonably good under 
standing of the subject presented here will greatly aid in the accomplish¬ 
ment of this object. 



Fig. 78 

It is often the case that ropes become worn or damaged from some 




































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


77 


cau- e or other; ends of ropes are cut off square, but for some reason, or 
from neglect, they are not properly tied so that they will not fray or un¬ 
ravel at the ends. Fig. 77 shows several methods to prevent this unneces¬ 
sary waste. The figure 1 of Fig. 77 shows a common tie for a rope; the 
end at A is in some cases cut off square at this point. A cheap way, but 
not as durable a way as the mode 2, which is the same as 1, but that the 
ends instead of being cut off are tied together forming loops, laying one 
over the other. Another method to accomplish the same purpose is to 
interlace the ends together; 3 shows the rope ready to make the end by 
interlacing the strands. The figure 4 shows the manner in which this is 
done, but the strands are not drawn up tightly, in order to better illustrated 
the manner in which this operation is accomplished; 5 shows the ends 
drawn up tightly and the interlacing complete. Cut off the ends left and as 
good an end is the result as could possibly be made; 6 shows how the 
interlacing is commenced in one direction; 7 shows the interlacing in two 
directions; 8 shows howto finish the interlacing by the ends being worked 
under the strands, as in splicing. 



If it is desired to unite two ends of a rope together, or, as commonly 
termed, to make a splice, prepare the ends of the rope as shown by 1 of 
Fig. 78; put the ends of the ropes together as closely as possible; place the 
ends of one between the strands of the other, above and beljw alternately; 
so as to interlace them. This is a quick method to make a short splice. The 
process of making a long splice is as follows: Unlay the s'rands of each 
of the ends of the ropes it is intended to join for about half of tbe length 
that the splice will be, putting each strand of the one between two strands 
of the other. 2 shows the strands arranged as described; reduce the 
strands toward their ends so that they lose themselves in the body of the 
splice at their ends. 

To make a splice for a rope that has been worn so that a part of ithau 
to be cut out and the ends spliced together again, the following mode is 





















78 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


followed, which makes the rope as strong at this splice as it has ever been. 
This is shown by 8 of Fig. 78-: This shows two strands, a and b } of the 
ropes A B, knotted together, being drawn as tight as possible; unlay the 
strand a', of the rope, A, for half the length of the splice, and twist the 
strand, b', of the rope, B, strongly in its place, tying a and b' together 
tightly. The same process is again gone through on the rope, B, the strand, 



Fig. 80 


a ", of the rope, A, being knotted to the strand, b ", of the rope, B. When 
all the strands are thus knotted together, interlace them with the strands 
of the rope. Thus the strands, a a' a ", are interlocked, by being passed 
alternately above and below the turns of the cord, B, the ends being also 
sometimes “whipped.” In the same manner the strands b b' b" } pass 




alternately over and under the strands of the rope, A, and are in like man¬ 
ner “whipped.” It is important that the several interlacings and knots 
should not meet at one point; reduce the size of the strands toward the end, 
so tli t they lose themselves in the body of the splice, cutting off such 
parts as may project. The foregoing will give a very fair idea how splices 
are made. To obtain the required proficiency to make a neat and well- 














































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


79 


made splice requires some practice. The above will give the student a 
fair start on this subject. It is also a good idea when one is making a 
splice to provide one s self with a tool in the shape of a marlin-spike, with 
which to open out the strands of a rope in order to pass the strands of 
another through or under them. 



Of the many knots and fastenings I will give some examples in the 
Figs. 79 and 80. Fig. 79, 1 shows a common over-handed knot; 2 shows 
what is called the figure-eight knot; 4 is a common bend, joining together 
two ropes and leaving four ends to the same; 3 shows how the common 
square or reef-knot is arranged. In Fig. 80 is shown by 1 an ordinary 
knot upon a double rope, and 2 presents the same knot somewhat differently 
arranged; 3 is a chain-knot or fastening on a rope, and 4 gives simple fas¬ 



tenings or knots on the same; 5 is a simple slip-clinch, and 6 shows a 
bowline knot. 7 presents what is termed a slip-clinch to a sailor’s knot, 
while 8 shows a slip-clinch secured, and 9 an eye-splice. The strands of 
this rope are brought back over themselves, and interlaced with the origi¬ 
nal turns, as in a splice. 10 is a knot for binding timbers; A shows how 



























































































80 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


to start this knot. Severturns should be taken around the timbers, then 
fasten the ends by passing them under the turns; 6, knot completed. The 
end of a round stick, m n , termed a packing stick, should be passed under 
the knot, the cord being slack enough to allow of this. By turning the 
stick, the turns can be tightened to any extent; when tight, fasten the 
longer arm of the lever to some fixed point, by a rope, p q , so that it cannot 
fly back. Care must be taken not to turn the stick too far, or the rope may 
be broken. 



2 

Pig. 84 


In Fig. 81 are shown several loops used to slip lines through; these 
are often made use of in emergencies. In many instances it is of much 
importance that the workman be able to tie together and fasten timbers 
fast to each other. Some examples are shown in Fig. 82; 1 of this figure 
shows a fastening to shears; 2 shows a double chain fastening; 3 shows a 
square mooring. The rope is around the post, A, and the piece, B, without 
being crossed; the ends are fastened by tying. 4 shows a crossed fasten¬ 



ing, the ends being drawn up and knotted tight. Figures 83 and 84 show 
some handy ways to make fast the ends of ropes. In Fig. 83 is shown by 
1 a loop with the end whipped or tied to the rope; 2 of this figure shows a 
fastening by a loop. This can be tied or untied without loosening the 
loop itself. It is made by following toward the longer loop the direction 
as numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and is terminated by the loop, 6, 7, 6, finally 
passing it over the head of the post, A. This knot holds itself, the turns 
being in opposite directions. To untie it, slack the turns of the rope suffi¬ 
ciently to again pass the loop, 6, 7, 6, over the post, A, and turn the ends 









































81 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 



in the contrary direction to that in which they were made (as 5, 4, 3, 2, 1). 





3 shows a very neat fastening. It is simple to make,and therefore a favorite 
tie for the purpose with many workmen. In Fig. 84 the waterman’s knot 
is shown by 1; by 2 is given a very effective fastening, while 3 is a fas¬ 



tening tied to a pin; the rope being fixed by a cross tie. The following 
fastenings are also much used: Fig. 85 at 1 shows the half-hitch, 2 i-s 
called a timber hitch, while 3 is the common clove hitch. In Fig. 86 are 















































































































82 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


shown by 1, a combination of the half-hitch and timber hitch; 2 shows the 
common and much-used bale sling. Fig. 87 at 1 shows the hammock hitch; 
at 2 the ordinary cask sling, and 8 shows the butt sling, on end. This is 
a good mode to secure a keg in order to hoist it. 

Fig. 88 presents some of the most-used pulley and tackle blocks. 1 is 
a snatch block. These blocks are so arranged that the rope can be placed 
on the pulley-wlieel without passing the end through the eye, but is so 
arranged that a side lock can be opened and the rope laid on the wheel at 
any time, th lock being closed again the pulley is ready to work with; 2 
shows the common rope strapped block, often used fora single whip; 8 and 
4 are a set of single and double pulley blocks; 5 is a much-used single pul¬ 
ley wheel, it being a universal favorite with roofers, especially for light 
hoisting. In the opinion of the writer the foregoing gives nearly everything 
that it is necessary for a thorough understanding of the subject, as far as 
any information on this branch is of practical benefit to the cornice man. 
It will be noticed that in some of the explanations of the figures, no veiy 
lengthy preamble nor detailed description has been given. This I deemed 
unnecessary, as in most of the figures the positions and what it is intended 
to convey, the drawings show so plainly that no amount of description 



The following tables will be found useful to the cornice trade as they 
give the weights and the safe load to be intrusted to the various sizes of 
ropes: 

TABLE OF SAFE LOAD FOR COMMON ROPES TO BEAR. (HASWELL.) 


Diameter. 

Circumference. Safe Load. 

Diameter. 

Circumference. 

Safe Load. 

.25" 

.78" 

425 tbs. 

.75" 

2.375" 

4,400 lbs. 

.3125" 

1.00" 

690 “ 

.875" 

2.625" 

6.150 “ 

.375" 

1.25" 

825 “ 

1.00" 

3.00" 

8 400 “ 

.500" 

1.375" 

1,600 “ 

1.25" 

3.75" 

13,400 “ 

.5625" 

1.75" 

2 800 “ 

1.5" 

4.625" 

20,160 “ 

.6875" 

2.125" 

3,800 “ 

1.625" 

5." 

24,600 “ 





















































































































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


83 


The foregoing gives a fair average for the safe load to trust to ordinarily 
good manilla ropes. This may be taken as 10% higher and stronger than 
sisal rope can bear. In weight, the difference between the two kinds of 
rope is from 5 to 10%, if both kinds are reasonably dry. Some dealers 
have the knack of making the weight of the two ropes so nearly alike that 
there is practically no difference between the two; that is, taking a given 
length of both kinds, both being the same in length and also in diameter 
still both are alike in weight. This ingenious trick is done by storing the 
moisture-absorbing sisal rope in a damp or wet cellar. The lighter sisal 
rope possesses the, to the dealer very profitable, peculiarity of absorbing 
enough aqua to render it equal and in some cases even heavier than an 
equal amount of manilla rope would weigh, even if the same were stored in 
the same place with the sisal. It therefore behooves the careful buyer to 
insist on getting his goods dry. The cost of common sisal rope is from 9 
to 12 cents a pound while manilla sells from 12 to 16 cents a pound, accord¬ 
ing to who buys and also, in many cases, from whom it is bought. My 
advice is to buy the better grade, namely, manilla rope, as the lasting qualities 
as compared between the two kinds is fully one-third in favor of the better 
grade. 

PLAN AND DETAILS OF A GABLE AflD HORIZONTAL 

CORNICE. 

XIX. . 


In this article is shown by Fig. 89 a front elevation of a 28' front. 
The drawing shows part of the sections to be horizontal cornices, whils 
near the center is shown a gable cornice surmounted by a ridge coping and 
a finial with an arrow weather-vane. This view also shows the front of a 
fancy dormer window with a finial, extended out from the slate-covered 
mansard roof of the attic. At each end is shown a raised paneled coping 
capped by head blocks. At the upper edge of the roof is shown the crown- 
deck or cresting cornice, capped by a cresting. This entire design is drawn 
to the scale of a to the foot. Fig. 90 gives a left-hand sectional view 
of Fig. 89, showing the relative position of the ridge cresting or coping of 
the gable, also the positions which the finials have on the building viewed 
from this point. The section of the horizontal cornice and also the posi- 


84 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


tion of the ornamental turrets which are located at the junction of the 
horizontal cornice and at the base of the gable cornice, are also shown. 
Fig. 91 gives a section of the front viewed from the right-hand side of the 
building. This section gives the side elevation of the dormer window, 
the gable and a full outline of both ridge crestings as well as the positions 
of the finials, head blocks, horizontal cornice and ornamental turrets, etc. 
The foregoing is supplemented by the plan view of the entire cor¬ 
nice in Fig. 92. The plan view, as will*be noticed, gives the correct loca¬ 
tion of each particular item that is shown in the drawings of the front and 



side elevations of this cornice. It will also be observed that the drawings 
are, in the main, different from those shown in the design as given in Arti¬ 
cle V, by Figs. 25, 26 and 27. Although being the plans of a building of 





































































































































































































































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


85 


the same general class, the designs as Figs. 89 to 92 give, show som) 
moldings and miters that are not made use of at all in the former. Just 
what points of difference there are and where they occur, will be seen far¬ 
ther on. It is customary with most architects to furnish drawings, drawn 
to the scale of one-quarter of an inch to the foot, as all the figures from 
89 to 92 show. 

But it is seldom that as complete a set as I have submitted in this in¬ 
stance is furnished. Most architects only give a front elevation and one 
section or side view, for the cornice man to figure upon and for him (if he 
secures the contract to build the cornice), to deduct his working drawings 
from. But in order to give the student every reasonable aid so as to enable 
him more readily to understand every detail of the design submitted, the 
two extra views—the plan and one section or side view—have also been given. 

To give the student a more comprehensive idea how the actual busi¬ 
ness of the preliminary stages of the figuring and the methods by which 



the first data are generally obtained for this branch of the work^ i have 













































86 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


given in connection with the general description of this cornice, a form of 
specification, usually made use of by architects when submitting a set of 
drawings to be figured from. The specifications serve to inform the cor¬ 
nice man of all the details, in connection with and pertaining to the work 
under consideration. The drawings and the printed or written form of 



specifications are what he is to go by and also to which he is held after the 
contract is made and signed by him. This being the case, it stands to 
reason that the best plan to follow before entering into any definite agree¬ 
ment is to carefully read and stu ly the exact wording, the meaning, direct 
or implied, of every point noted in the specifications that he is figuring on, 
so that in case of a dispute he thoroughly understands the wording of the 
same. In the form of specification that I present in connection with this 
cornice and the other work which is done by most cornice-making firms I 
have omitted to give any very precise or elaborate conditions in connec¬ 
tion with the design submitted in this article, my aim being to give the 
student a good insight into the general business methods and also to pre¬ 
sent a form of a complete specification usually made use of by architects 
in connection with the cornice-maker’s branch of work on a. building. 
Specifications are generally in the style as given and are in printed form, 
the spaces left blank being for any additional on more specific designation 
of any particular part of the work it is desired by the architect to describe 
more fully. There is also to unst specifications an iron-clad condition 
affixed (not shown iu the form given), that covers all classes of work des¬ 
cribed in it, which it will be well for the cornice man to note and make 
provisions for in his calculations. Whatever this general condition may 
be, note the same. The following is the priated form usually used for this 
part of the work about a building: 














































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


87 


SPECIFICATIONS OF TIN, GALVANIZED IRON, SLATE AND 

COPPER WORK. 

GALVANIZED Ikon CORNICE, Etc. The contractor will provide and fix all cornices, 
moulds, dormer windows, etc., as per elevations and details, together with brackets, 
modillions, ornaments, etc., all of No. 26 and 27 iron, substantially riveted and sol¬ 
dered, firmly b.aced every 4 to 6 feet, as directed, with 3-16xli-inch strong wrought- 
iron stays, holding all profiles and forms in proper shape, the whole firmly put up and 
fixed to the building in a workmanlike manner. 


CONDUCTORS- The conductors in the rear to be of-caliber, made of No. 24- 

iron, extending from the hanging gutter or head to the sewer, properly secured to but 
not against the wall of building or porch posts, by strong galvanized iron clasp- 
hooks, placed every 8 feet. Pipes to have all necessary curves, bends, etc., to be 
flanged over sewer-pipe openings, or if discharging on to the ground surface, to be 
provided with 16-inch shoes at the bottom, conveying the water from the building. 

All pipes to be lapped, properly seamed, soldered, and-put in place as soon as 

the roof is on, to protect the wall from damage. 


Ornamental Conductors and Heads to be made of No. 26 iron and zinc, as per 
elevations and details. 


GUTTERS. Put up hanging gutters in the rear of the building-x-in size made 

of No, 24 iron, flashed back under roof covering, not less than 4 inches, having a fall 
to the conductor pipe of not less than 2 inches in every 25 feet, and all properly se¬ 
cured in place with strong gutter hooks on the under side; the gutter to have strong 
water-drip on the outer edge, formed by the strengthening wire, and to be so placed 
that the gutter rim will be at least 1 inch below the top of roofing where dripping to 
the gutter. 


METALLIC SKYLIGHTS. Put up.skylights, where indicated by plans, of sizes 

marked thereon, the same to be glazed with heavy ribbed glass, provided with proper 
iron strengthening bars, of dimensions in proper proportions to the size of the light, 
or as directed; putty joints of glass with iron, to have iron water-shed covers. 
Properly fix condensation gutters for each light, the same extending out and empty¬ 
ing on the roof, and furnish movable ventilators in center of lights-x-in 

size. 


all to be made water-tight. Skylight to be put up as soon as the roof is on. The 
contractor will be held responsible for all damage occurring to the building from 
neglect of this part of his work . 





















88 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


Cresting. 


Galvanized Iron Sheeting. On windows,.to be moulded, paneled and 

ornamented as shown by drawings and put up in proper manner with one thickness 
of heavy tar paper between the same and the wood work, all well lapped at joints.... 


PRESSED AND Oast Zing. The ornamental forms of cornice work, etc., to be of 
pressed zinc, of designs shown by elevations and details. 


Copper Work. 


TINNING. The plank coping of fire walls (where the same is used), the exposed 
woodwork of cornices, skylights, scuttle-covers and curbs, storm-house roofs, balco" 
nies, porches and bay window roofs, inside of gutters, hips, valleys and other exposed 
woodwork not otherwise provided for to be covered under slate, shingles, composi¬ 
tion (or other roof covering), to be covered with best quality of. 

Roofing, tin securely seamed, fastened and soldered, and otherwise made water-tight. 
Run tin up underneath shingles or slate, to provide well against back-water leaks; 
furnish the carpenter or mason, as work progresses, all required tin flashings, same 
material as roofs, and of suitable sizes, for the proper flashing of all outside work, or 
shingles, slate, etc., to make properly tight over all openings and projections in wall 
or roof surfaces; examine work carefully, and stop all leaks after other craftsmen, 
on completion of building. All tin-work and flashings to have two good coats of 
metallic paint on the under side before being laid; also on top, on such portions as 
other work will cover up. 


Slating .The roof of 


and other surfaces so indicated by the plans, to be covered with best unfading, 

sound.. 

..slat©-x-in size-laid- 

to the weather, all nails to be covered in the lapping. The slates to be properly 
drilled and trimmed, each slate to be nailed with 4d. galvanized nails; cut at hips, 
valleys, eaves and heading courses to make uniform bond, also ornamental bands as 























CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


89 


hereafter, all hips to be mitred and with top courses, under ridge covering, also head¬ 
ers, firmly bedded in slaters’ cement. 


provide ornamental courses of 


FELTING of medium tarred paper will be provided, carefully stretched, lapped 2-ply 
and tacked on, previous to, and on all surfaces to be slated. 

FLASHING* Do all step and other flashing as required during progress of work, 
around all pipes, chimneys, dormers, scuttles, skylights, walls and all other places, 
to make the whole perfectly water-tight, with tin as above specified, painted as other 
tin work, of sufficient width, etc., secured into joints of brick or to other work, 
capped, bedded and pointed with slaters’ cement. At completion of building, exam' 
ine work, etc., etc. (see tinning), and warrant all in good and perfect repair for a 
period of one year from time of completion. . 

N. B.—Where copper is specified for flashing, etc., the above specifications will apply 
to its use and forms the same as it now does to tin and iron work where copper gutter 
linings are used in connection with galvanized iron mouldings, the jammings must be 
seamed and then soldered. All copper used throughout the work to be 14 oz. in 
weight. 

In the foregoing printed form there are some items which have 
no connection or bearing on a job as shown in the designs from Figs. 89 
to 92. The main object in giving the form is to make the student familiar 
with*what occurs in actual every-day work. We will assume that the pre¬ 
liminary office work has been done as far as the reading of the plans and 
specifications is concerned. The measuring up of this work would now be 
in order, or, in other words, the design as submitted to be transposed into 
detail and working drawings, and the same to be measured up so as to 
ascertain just how much material it will take to complete the entire work 
so far as the cornice, dormer window, coping and cresting are concerned. 
In most drawings the full-size dimensions are shown in figures, even if the 
architect has prepared the drawings to a larger scale as in the design of Fig. 
89. In this case I have not followed this plan, as I believe the earnest 
student finds a far more instructive study in this design by taking bis rule 
or scale, and when working out a problem as Fig. 89 gives, measuring and 
then transposing the distances as found to another drawing rather than 
having all this done for him. The idea is that the more he practices the 
more proficient he becomes, and as a consequence the more pains he takes 
the more accurate the results will be in this branch of his work. I have 
only deemed it necessary to give a few general dimensions of the entire 
cornice, and also the profile of each of the various sections of the cornice 
moldings; these are all drawn to the scale of 1" to the foot, and are all 
shown in Fig. 93. I may here remark that in actual practice, or in every- 







90 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


day work, it is important that when an architect submits plans and draw, 
ings for work they are, as a general rule, marked with full-size dimensions 
in plain figures. It is easily seen how important this is that they are so 
marked. I will say, for instance, if a drawing is drawn to a scale of to 
the foot, the student must remember that when he lays his rule or scale on 
the drawing that each one-eighth of an inch on his rule represents one foot 
of the actual size of the object which the drawing presents. It is thus an 
easy matter to make mistakes, even the width of a line on the drawing being 
wider than one-twelftli of one-eighth of an inch on a rule or scale is, hence 
the importance and necessity that the drawings be marked with full-size 
dimensions. This is a point that must be looked after, and ought to be in¬ 



sisted on by the cornice*man that the architect attends to it that the draw¬ 
ings are so marked. This will avoid all confusion and greatly facilitate the 
ready measuring, figuring and getting out of the work in every detail; in 
fact, will leave no excuse for blunders and give satisfaction to every one, 
concerned. I will now show how to measure up this design. The first 
sections will be the hor'zontal cornice parks which I will take under con¬ 
sideration. No. 5 of Fig. 93 shows the profile for these parts. The stretch¬ 
out of this profile measures from the foot molding at the extreme end from 
A to the crown molding at A', 33". This gives the amount of surface for 
the sections A and B of Fig. 89 from top to the bottom of each, or the 
vertical stretch-out of the same. The horizontal stretch-out of section A is 
11'6"; for section B it is 2'3". This gives 11' 6"-f2'3" 13'9"x33"=37 

sq. ft. and 117 sq. in., or say 38 sq. ft. The two sections, which are at right 
angles to A and B, are also horizontal moldings. The profiles of the same 
are shown by 6 of Fig. 93. The stretch-out of each of these parts is from 
the extreme end at the bottom to the top 28". The length of each section 
horizontally is 2'. This makes the surface for these sections 2'_|_2 'n=4' x28 
=9 sq. ft. and 48 sq. in., or in the rough 9i sq. ft. of iron. The stretch- 











CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


91 


out of the gable moldings measures 26" for each side; the extreme length 
of each side is 11". This makes the amount of iron for both moldings 
11' x2=22' x26"=47 sq. ft. and 96 sq. in., or 47J sq. ft. for this part. 

The profile No. 7 is the one for the gable section; No. 4 is the profile of 
the crest or deck molding; both of these profiles are shown in Fig. 93. 

The stretch-out of the deck molding measures 13" and the length of 
this molding is 26' 3". This multiplied by 13" makes 28 sq. ft. and 63 
sq. in. or in the rough, 28J- sq. ft. of iron. The quantity of iron 
that it will take for the copings at each end of the main wall of the man¬ 
sard roof is 25" wide and 7' long for each, making 14' x 25" = 29 sq. ft. 
and 24 sq. in. for these two pieces, or say 29^ sq. ft. of iron all 
together. The quantity of iron for the head-blocks is 5 sq. ft. for the 
square part of each one and 3 sq. ft. for the pendant moldings of each 
block, and also one square foot for the circular support of each ball on each 
block or truss. This makes the total for both head-blocks 18 sq. ft. of 
iron. The cresting, as shown, is to be 1" square, making the stretch'out 
4" by 26' and one foot for each post, making 17 ft. more. This makes the 
quantity of material in this part of the work 26' 4- 17'= 43' -f- 4" = 14J- 
sq. ft. To measure the dormer window, take all the flat surfaces first; aver¬ 
age the front 4' wide and 5' 6" wide, making 4' x 5' 6'' = 22 sq. ft. of 
iron. For the sides, measure the flat part immediately under the horizon¬ 
tal cornice, which is 2', then down to the lowest point of the side of the 
dormer, which is 4'. Now, as each side has but half of this surface, the 
figures as given answer for the full amount of surface contained in both of 
the sides, or, in other words, as the sides are each in the shape of a tri- 
. angle, and as they are both of the same area, they may both be figured, 
after being added together, as a square, or, to be more precise, as a 
parallelogram or as a rectangle, hence 2 x 4 = 8 sq. ft. is the amount 
of the area of the surface of both sides of the dormer window. The pro¬ 
files 1 and 2 of Fig. 93, give the stretch-out for the moldings for this 
window, which averaged measures 12" as the mean for both shapes. The 
length of the entire moldings for this dormer is 12' long, making the total 
amount of surface of the same 12 sq. ft. 

The ridge coping of the dormer window has a surface of 2' X 3' 6" 
= 7 sq. ft. area. The coping or ridge cresting of the gable has a surface 
of 2' 6" X 4' = 10 sq. ft. area, making for both 7' -f 10' = 17 sq. ft. 
surface or area. The two finiah on both gables will require 14J sq. ft. of 
iron; for the larger one, it will take 10 sq. ft. and for the smaller one, it 
will take 4^ sq. ft. To find the area contained in the surface of 
each one of the turrets or ornamental pillars which are located at the 


92 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


base of the gable the following method may be used, if the entire members 
are to be made out of the flat, excepting the ball ornaments, which are on 
the top of each; these can be made of stamped or spun zinc. The column 
measures 2' 6" in height and has a diameter of 10", thus 2' 7f" x 2' 6'' — 
6 sq. ft. and 58^ sq. ins. or say 6J- sq. ft. each; for both, this would be 
13 sq. ft. The amount of material required to make the curved parts of 
this ornamental member from, may be figured in the following manner. 
Take the largest member or the one which has the greatest diameter, which 



is 16"; the circumference of the same will be 4' 2J". Next measure up the 
profile of the parts, 3J' for both the top ornamental part and also for the 
pendant part below the base of the column, hence H' x 2' = T x 4' 21" 
— 29 gq. ft. and about 25 sq. ins. This will give ample material from 
which to cut all the curves and pieces required for both top and bottom 
parts for the two ornaments as the design Fig. 89 shows. It will also be 
noticed that at each side of the building, immediately under the head-blocks, 
is shown a piece of iron about 1 foot square, as the Figs. 89 and 90 show 
at that place. Allow 2 sq. ft. for these. Also allow about 10 sq. ft. of 
iron for waste in cutting, etc. 


The following list will show the result of the foregoing at a glance 
giving the entire amount of material or iron required for the cornice as 
shown by the design, Fig. 89: 


For 

Sections A and B, 38 sq. ft. 

For Ridge Crestings, 

17 sq. ft. 


“ C “ D, 

9J “ 

“ Finials, 

1U “ 

« 

Gable Cornice, 

47f “ 

“ Turrets, 

42 « 

<< 

Deck “ 

281 .. 

“ Under-blocks, 

2 

a 

Capings, 

29i “ 

“ Waste, 

10 

tt 

Head-blocks, 

18 



it 

Crestings, 

141 «. 

Total, 

313 sq, ft 

tt 

Dormer window, 

42 “ 









CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


93 


The foregoing estimate will be found nearly correct enough to give a 
safe margin to figure the weight of the iron required for this job. One 
point to be borne in mind when figuring and measuring up woik is to be 
sure and figure enough iron to allow sufficient latitude for waste in the cut¬ 
ting. Those who care to figure more closely are referred to the methods as 
given for this branch in the article YI. The following are the general 
dimensions for this cornice: The extreme length horizontally for the center 
is 28' 2"; the height of the main cornice is 17J"; the projection is 9", 
and the right-angle horizontal parts from the main cornice are 7J". The 
height of the deck cornice is 9" and its projection is 9" also. The width 
of the two end copings is 12" on the front exposure. 

The dormer window measures from its base line to the extreme top¬ 
most part of its finial 8' 8"; its average width is 4^', and the gable of the 
same projects out from the roof 4'. The main gable projects out from the 
roof 6'. The distance across the base from the two turrets is 14' and 
the perpendicular height from a horizontal line level with the lowest line of 
the horizontal cornice to the highest point of the gable cornice is 9' 6". 
The height of the main finial is 5' from the gable to its top ornament. 
The length of the ornamental turrets and pillars is 7' and their average 
diameter is 13". The height of the cresting on the deck cornice is 12" 
and the entire cresting is to be made of 1" square pieces. The height of 
the finial on the dormer window is 2' 5" from the top of the gable and is 
on an average 3±" thick through the main body of the lowest part. The 
ornaments on the front of the dormer window may be either hammered to 
shape or they may be of stamped zinc or iron. The truss or head-blocks, 
it will be noticed, are to have a raised panel on the front while the sides 
need merely have the outlines of the figure show as the designs of the end 
elevations give of all these details. Drawings will be given showing the 
details drawn to the scale of 1" to the foot. 

The followiug is the list of all the circular ornaments for the entire 
cornice. Some of these are complete spheres, while some are but half-balls 
or hemispheres. These may be of spun zinc. 

For the main and the gable cornice there will be required fifty 2" 

hemispheres. 

For the dormer window twenty-four 1J" and four 2" hemispheres will 
also be required, one 2" and one 1J" sphere for the finial on the same. 

For the finial on the main gab’e there will be required two 1J", 
three 2" and one 3" hemispheres. 

In addition for this finial there will be required one 4", one 2J" and 
one 1J" spheres. 

For the turrets twenty-five 1£" hemispheres, and also two 6" and two 


94 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


4" spheres are necessary; sixteen 2" spheres will be required for the up¬ 
right posts of the cresting. 

The head-blocks require two 7" spheres and also four li" hemi¬ 
spheres, and the deck cornice will want thirty-two of the same size to com¬ 
plete it. 

The ridge-cresting of the dormer window requires three 3" spheres, 
and the ridge-cresting of the gable requires the same number of 4" spheres. 

The following gives the complete list of all the different sizes of both 
the half-balls or hemispheres, and also of the whole balls or spheres. These 
are as follows: 

87 14 " Hemispheres. 1 2J" Spheres. 


«( 


<< 


57 2" 

1 3" 

2 1£" Spheres. 
17 2" 


<( 


2r 

3 3" 

6 4" 

2 6 " 

2 7" 


<( 

a 

u 

ff 


In order to get all the other material that enters into the make-up of 
this cornice the items rivets, braces, solder, etc., must be figured under this 
head. Methods to accomplish this in the most expeditious manner are 
fully given in the articles VI and VII; the e chapters also give the most 
approved manner and the time it ought to take to get out and completely 
finish a cornice according to the best practice in the trade at the present 
day. It is also to be noted that a strip of tin or iron 20" wide is to be put 
on the edge of the deck, covering the same 18" back and lapping over and 
down 2". This strip will be the entire length across the front, that is, 28' 
long. If this strip is to be of tin, it must be entered under that head in 
the cost, but if of iron, the same must be added to the total surface of the 
quantity as found for the cornice. Upon this strip the head-blocks and also 
the cresting which is shown above, the deck cornice is fastened. Another 
item that is to be figured at this stage are the valleys; these are to be of tin 
for the gable and also for the dormer window. The gable valleys are to be 
20" wide and for the dormer 14". The method most used to ascertain the 
lengths or valleys as these are situated is as follows: Take the distance 
from. A to B of Fig. 92, which is the plan; transpo.-e this to the line A to B 
of Fig. 94. The length of this line as found is the base line, which in this 
case is S' long. Then from one of the side elevations ascertain the vertical 
height of the gable as from S to S' of Fig. 91. Erect a perpendicular line 
of the length as found from S to S' of Fig. 91, and from B of Fig. 94 to 
D of the same figure, which gives the altitude. Connect the points D and 
A by a line, and the length that this last line ha i is the actual length of the 
required valley for one side of the gable. The last line so drawn is the 
hypothenuse. The height of the altitude in this case being 8' makes the 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


95 


length of the liypothenuse or the actual length of the valley in this case 11' 
V". The foregoing is merely an actual demonstration of a very simple geo¬ 
metrical rule covering problems of this class. The rule is as follows: Add 
the square of the base to the square of the altitude and the square root of 
the sum is the liypothenuse, as 8 2 x8 2 , v /128=ll' 7", the result as found 
for one side. To this must be added the quantity of material it will take 
to lap the ends over each other at the top ridge where the tin lays on tha 
mansard roof. I will say that 12' allowed for each side will be the re¬ 
quired length for the two sides. This will be 24 feet of valley for the gable. 
The quantity required for the dormer is found in a precisely similar way 
as has been given for the gable valleys, with the. difference, of course, that 
the lengths are different, and that the valleys do not run down as far on 
these as they do on the sides of the main gable. I have given the distances 
for the dormer valleys in Fig. 94 from B to F for the base and from B to E 
for the perpendicular or the altitude; from E to F gives the length of the 
valleys as demanded by the plan, Fig. 92. In the foregoing I have given 
the complete and necessary steps to measure up the cornice under consider¬ 
ation. The methods used to accomplish the same result in regard to what 
has to be done for the roofing or for the slating, I will give further on. 

To ascertain how much the iron as found weighs, refer to the table of 
weights as given in article VII. If the cornice is to be made of 26 gauge 
iron refer to the gauge number 26 of the table; directly underneath this will 
be found the weight of this gauge of iron in ounces per square foot, which 
is 15 ounces. 

► The total quantity as found for the square feet of iron in the cornice 
is 841! sq. ft.; 341! S( l- x 15 = 5 > 119 ozs - 16 = 320 lbs *» nearly. 

To this is to be added the strip 20" wide and 28' long, which goes on 
the space on the deck immediately behind the deck or cresting cornice, that 
is, if galvanized iron is to be used for it. In case iron should be used the 
total amount will be as follows: 28' x 12'' = 336" x 20"= 6720 = 144= 
46 I®® sq. ft., or nearly 47 sq. ft. X 15 ozs. = 705 oz. -f- 16 = 44 lbs. -f 320 
lbs.= 364 lbs. This will be the total weight of all the iron required for 
the entire job. The table further gives all the data for the cost of the iron, 
as will be readily seen by reference. The tin for the gutters must also be 
figured in this estimate. They are to be made of 20" wide tin, and the 
total length required will be 20'. The tin is to be painted on both sides, 
and to be put into the wood through which the carpenter will build and 
make ready for the workmen doing the putting in of the gutters. A3" 
square leader is to convey the water down the building. The conducting 
leader is to be provided with a suitable filter, and cutting off two feet up 
from the surface level of the ground. 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


96 

In the foregoing is presented all that is needed to give the student a 
good idea of the different items which he has to figure, measure up and 
estimate on when a job as the designs—as presented by the Figs. 89 to 
94—is under consideration. 



In the following are some of the parts of this cornice drawn to a larger 
scale; I will term them detail or working drawings. Although the space 
does not permit to give full size drawings for these details, the scale that 
they are enlarged to will give the student sufficiently large enough draw¬ 
ings so that he can very readily understand them, and use them to practice 
from. Besides this, if he would practice and make the drawings to a dif¬ 
ferent scale from that given, the benefit derived from such a course will 
greatly help to make him familiar with the different scales, and will tend 
to make him proficient and accurate in his future work. 

The first design shown, which has been enlarged from to the scale 












































































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


97 


of 1' to the foot, is one of the trusses or head-blocks of the deck cornice. The 
Figs. 95 and 96 present two views of these. The part A of Fig. 95 shows 
the front view of one of the trusses. This view gives all the details of 
this block seen from this point of view. It gives the proper relative posi¬ 
tion of all the curves and moldings in both the pendant part of the truss 
and of the deck cornice, the relative position of the hemispheres, which 



are soldered to the receding curves of the moldings, also the position of 
the 1" square pieced cresting and the upright posts for it. The paneled 
projections are shown at the bottom end, both for the block and for the 
wall coping. Part B shows the apex of the gable and the section of the 
ridge cresting or coping, as it appears from this front view, giving a full 


































































93 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 



Fig. 93, at No. 3. No. 4 is the profile of the'deck cornice and is shown in 
outline by the dotted line in Fig. 96. The head block is shown in the 
proper relative position that it occupies on the deck; the position of the 
cresting is shown by the dotted lines through the head-blocks.. 

This figure also presents the projection of the panel on the coping, 
giving its shape and the data of its proper location. A side view of the 


profile for the stretch-out, as demanded for it by the front elevation in Fig. 
89. Fig. 96 gives the side view of Fig. 95, showing the profile of the truss 
molding and the paneled projection in front of the head-block. The pro¬ 
file as shown by No. 3, corresponds to that of the profile as shown by 

Q 















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


99 


ridge coping is also given in this figure, this coping being the crest of the 
main gable. The two views, Figs. 95 and 96, also give all the data for the 
top part of the head-blocks and show how the balls are situated on their 
supports. The drawings show the top slightly raised with flanges soldered 
to them. This can be seen on the under side of the ball. The position of 
the hemispheres, which are used on the trusses and on the deck cornice, 
are also shown. 

Figs. 97 and 98 are drawn to the scale of J" to the foot and are the 
detail drawings of the finial on the main gable. The ornamental scale 



Fig.98. 



















































100 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


work is to be made of either iron or zinc, hammered or stamped to the 
shape as the design demands. The positions and the outward projection 
of all the ornaments is clearly shown by the side view, Fig. 98. The rod 
has three sections divided and fastened together by the balls as shown 
in the figures. 



The arrow vane is to be made so that it turns freely, in order that it 
may indicate at all times from which direction the wind blows. In Fig. 
98 is illustrated the shape that the ridge coping has where it joins the linial 
and at the same time where and how it braces the latter. The details of 
the spear-head and cf the feather end of the vane are all plainly presented 
in the drawings. 





















































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


102 


v 



Fig.101 

Front Elevation 
1 to the Foot 























































102 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


The detail drawings of the dormer window are seen in Figs. 99 and 
100. These are drawn to the scale of to the foot. Fig. 99 gives 
one-half of the entire front view of this window. All the ornamental 
scrolls on this front may be either stamped or hammered to shape by hand 
work. The front view of the finial and a section of the ridge coping is 
shown. Down the outer edge a half-inch projection is to be made, and at 
the lower scroll the center is to be cut as the projection on Fig. 100 indi¬ 
cates, so that it can be formed into the shape as the figure demands. The 
front being given by this view, Fig. 99, for the shape of the frame for the 
window, refer to Fig. 100 for the profile as at A or B. Fig. 99 gives the 
profile of the cornice for this window. At 1 is shown the gable cornice 
and at 2 the profile of the horizontal part. These two profiles correspond 
with those of the numbers 1 and 2 as in Fig. 93. Fig. 99 gives the actual 



length of the gable cornice, while the side view, Fig. 100, gives the length 
back for that part. The sheathing or covering of the sides is to be carried 
straight backward as the outline of the front indicates. The curved 
window moldings are to be fitted to a frame which will be furnished by 
the carpenter. Fig. 100 presents to view the end wall coping at its lower 
end showing where the panel terminates. The entire side view of the 



















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


103 


ridge coping or cresting for the dormer window is given, showing both 
ends, how connected and joined to the finial, etc. This view also gives the 
data for the dimensions of the finial from this point of view, while Fig. 99 
gives it for the front. 

Figs. 101 to 103 give all the details of the entire pillars or the orna¬ 
mental turrets, showing all the joints where the gable cornice miters on 
the round and curved parts of the pillar. Fig. 102 shows how the hori¬ 
zontal cornice miters on the same and also by the dotted profile of the 
gable cornice where it has its position from this point of view. In Fig. 
101 the position of the horizontal cornice is shown by the dotted outline, 
No. 6. It will be observed that the horizontal sections of the cornices are 
of two different profiles, and that the gable cornice has a different profile 
from either one of the two other cornices. The reason for this will be seen 



by examining Fig. 103, which is the plan. This shows a different projec¬ 
tion for each one of the sections. It also gives the correct relative position 
of each of the lines and moldings of the three sections, placed in such 
shape that all the data for the laying out of the patterns for the miters of 
these shapes can be obtained for this view from it. This view, at the 
same time, gives the correct position for all the curved parts of the pillar, 
as far as is consistent, so that they can be used in laying out the 
various patterns further on. 

The profile of the gable section is shown by No. 7, cut at right-angles to 
the same. The profile X shows how this section appears to the eye looking up 






























104 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


at it when the cornice is in position. This point, it will be noticed, is one 
of importance in designing a structure of this class. The section of the 
main cornice, of which No. 5 is the profile, it will be seen, has a greater 
height than the gable cornice has, but when the two sections are in posi¬ 
tion on the building, the gable cornice will appear to be the larger or 
wider section of the two, and yet is really the smaller one. This seeming 
difference is caused by the oblique position in which the gable section is 
placed from the horizontal, thus exposing more of the surface of these 
sections vertically to the view than of the horizontal cornice. This, as a 
natural result, makes the gable cornice appear larger to the eye than the 
other sections. The ability and judgment of proportion required to make 
every part of a design harmonize, so that the effect as a whole is pleasing* 
and that every member of a cornice appears just right in a design, are 
faculties very desirable for every cornice designer and cutter to possess. I 
would recommend the student to cultivate and educate himself in this 
direction as much as he possibly can. The means to perfect himself in 
this branch of cornice work are ample almost everywhere. I would advise 
the learner to take a course of lessons in drawing, designing, etc., with 
some competent teacher in these branches, to begin with. Then the chief 
means to make himself competent are his own willingness to study, his 
perseverance and actual practical work in this branch, always striving to 
come as near to a perfect result as he can possibly attain. I hope that the 
few hints thus given may benefit the student and direct him into the 
course of study which will enable him to add to his efficiency as a work¬ 
man. It remains with him to act upon them, so that he may reap the 
practical benefits therefrom. 

I will next describe the pillar of Fig. 101 in detail. The total length 
from the top of the ball A to the bottom of the ball B is 6' 4". The 
diameter of the ball A is 5", that of the ball B is 4". The width of the 
widest part of the fluted portion of the pendant is 14J", as from C to D; 
its vertical height is 11" from X to X'. The base from S to S is 
12", and from S' to S' it is 9" across. The column is 9" in diameter and 
2' 7" high. The ornamental spiral ribs or flutes extend outward from the 
colunm J" and are 1J" wide. The widest part of the cap from 3 to 4 is 
16", the distance from 1 to 2 is 10J", from 5 to 6 is 12", from 7 to 
8 is 16" and from 9 to 10 is 17". From 9 to A is 7", from A to B 4" 
and from B to 10 6". The foregoing figures give enough data to enable 
the student to draw the entire figure to any scale he desires. Fig. 101 shows 
the front view of the bottom end of the panel projection of the end wall 
coping for the left-hand end of the building. The various profiles as 
shown in this figure correspond exactly with those in Fig. 93. The posi- 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


105 


tion of each line of half-balls or hemispheres is also shown by Figs. 101 
and 102. This completes the necessary preliminary data to enable th-i 
student to get all the required measurements to lay out all the pitteras 
for each member of the different sections in this cornice, as given by Fig. 
89. In this article I have also shown how to measure up and figure toe 
weight, etc., of all the iron needed to complete this cornice. Toe next 
item to treat on in connection with this job will be the covering of the 
front roof, embracing the mansard, gable and dormer window. 


XX. 

DHTAIlkS OF SLATING AfiD SLATERS’ TOOLS. 

The first step to be taken in figuring up the quantity of slate it will 
take to slate or cover a roof, is to ascertain the amount of surface of the 
roof that is to be covered. Then the style, size of slate to be used, how 
much of the slate is to lap or cover and also how much of the slate is to 
show to the weather. Then the quality and color is to be figured on 
which is to be used for any given job. The roof as submitted in the article 
XIX, Figs. 89 and 92, may be measured up by the following method. 
Measure from the hip of the gable to the point X as Fig. 89 shows; this 
distance measures 7'. Then add to this the distance from point X to the 
left end wall of the building which is 18". Then from point X', which is 
the same distance away from the gable as the point X, measure the distance 
from it to the right end wall of the front. This distmce is 10'6"; add 
the distances as found together, which make 19' 2". Multiply this by the 
distance from point 1 to 2 of Fig. 90, which is 9'. Thus we hive 19' 2" 
X 9' = 172J sq. ft. for this part of the roof. For the gable, measure 
from point X to X' of Fig. 90, which is 4' 3"; multiply this by the dis¬ 
tance from the top of the ridge of the gable to the gutter line, which is 
11', as the front elevation, Fig. 89, shows. These 4' 3" X 11 = 46| sq 
ft. Add to this the surface from point X of Fig. 90, to the front end of 
the gable, which is 2' 6" X by 11' = 27^'; add to this the same amount 
for the other side of the gable, which makes this result 55 sq. ft; then 
add the 46f sq. ft. as found for the surfaces for both sides from the point 
X to X' which makes 1011 sq. ft., which is the roof surface of the entire 
gable. 

For the surface of the dormer window roof, multiply the distance 
from point 1 to 2 of Fig. 90 by the distance from point 1 to 2 of Fig. 89. 



106 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


The distance in Fig. 90 is 1' 6" and in Fig. 89 it is 3' 6". Thus we have 
V 6" X 3' 6" = sq. ft. Add to this twice the amount of the area 
contained between points 1, X and the outer edge of the gable of the 
dormer window. This is 2' 6" for the distance from point 1 to the front 
edge of the roof multiplied by the slant height of the same, a3 2' 6" X 3' 
6" = 8| sq. ft. X 2 = 17^ sq. ft. 4* 5J sq. ft. = 22J sq. ft. of actual 
surface on this dormer roof. The amount of area found for the entire 
square, but less than. 8 feet square. We deduct one-half of the area as 
found for the dormer from the whole total of the entire result as found, 
this is, 359 sq. ft. 4 sq. in. — 9 sq. ft. = 350 sq. ft. = 3J squares as the 
actual total of slate roofing to be figured for the roofs as given in Fig. 89. 
For convenience sake, we will drop the extra 4 sq. inches out of this calcula¬ 
tion. The next step will be to get the quantity of slate required to cover 
this surface. In general work the sizes most used are 8" x 16" and 10" 
X 18". The size or nails used are generally 1J", either galvanized, 
tinned or wire. 

surfaces so far, are for the main roof 172J sq. ft., gable roof 101§ sq. ft., 
dormer roof 22| sq. ft., making a total of 297 sq. ft. nearly. It is a 
standard rule among slate rooters, architects, contractors and builders 
in general, to figure for roofs with hips, gables and dormers, the valleys 
for their entire length as one foot more surface as long as the section is 
that adjoins the valley. Each valley has, as a matter of course, two 
sections of roof adjoining* so that the entire length of the vaUey is 
figured double. To illustrate this rule in this case, we have 23' 2" of 
valley on the main gable roof and 8' of the valley on the dormer roof. 
Both added together mike 31' 2" X 2 =^62 sq. ft. and 4 sq. in., this 
result must now be added to the total of the roof surface as found. This 
operation is 297 sq. ft. 4- 62 sq. ft. 4 sq. in. = 359 sq. ft. and 4 sq. in. The 
foregoing rule and the extra allowance that it gives, is to compensate for 
the extra waste and labor in fitting, cutting and laying these parts as des- 
scribed. It is also customary to make no reduction in figuring the quantity 
of slate for a roof, for the openings for chimneys, dormer windows, sky 
lights, scuttle holes, etc., unless they are larger than four feet square. In 
case they are more than four feet square and less than eight feet, allow one- 
half. If larger than ten feet square, deduct the whole surface as found for 
them, that they occupy of the surface of the roof. All extra cutting, miter¬ 
ing and fitting is to be charged for as extra. It is understood that the builder 
is to furnish all extra wood-work and cant strips required. In accordance 
with the foregoing rules,'the dormer window as f^hown by Fig. 89 takes 
up only 18 sq. ft. of the roof area, this being 2 sq. ft. more than 4 feet 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


107 


The next item would be, what amount of nails will be required to 
properly lay this amount of slate? This will depend upon the kind of nails 
used for the purpose. Galvanized iron nails are the heaviest, next in weight 
aie tin nails, while wire nails are the lightest, and for a given amount of 
slate, the lightest amount in weight will b3 required. 

The following table gives all the particulars needed for this item fig¬ 
ured in pounds. In this table an ample margin is left for waste, loss, etc. 

WEIGHT OF NAILS REQUIRED TO LAY A SQUARE OF SLATE. 


Sizes of Slat e 
in Inches. 

3ds. in pound-. 

4ds. in pounds. 

Galv’d. 

Tinned. 

Wire. 

Galv’d. 

Tinned. 

Wire. 

12X12 

4 

3 

2K 

4K 

3 

2K 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

12X 6 

6 

5 

4K 

7 

6 

5 

14X12 

2K 

2 

2 

3 

3 

. 2 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

14X7 

4K 

4 

3K 

5K 

4M 

2M 

16X12 

2% 


2 

2M 


2 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

16X 8 

CO 


2 % 

3 K 

3M 

3K 

18X12 

m 


IK 


IK 

iK 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

18x 9 


2K 

IK 

3 K 

2K 


20X14 

IK 

IK 

l 

IK 

IK 

IK 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

20X10 

l 7 /s 

IK 

IK 

2K 

2 

IK 

22X14 

IK 

IK 

l 

iK 

IK 

iK 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

22X11 

IK 

IK 

IK 

2 

IK 

IK 

24X16 

1 

K 

K 

IK 

l 

K 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

to 

24X12 

IK 

IK 

1 

IK 

IK 

IK 


The third item to be considered is the roofing felt or paper to be used 
under the slate. The material most used by roofers for this purpose is 
what is called tarred board. It is usually sold by the roll and the different 
thicknesses are designated by the numbers 1, 2 and 3. No. 2 weighs from 
Id to l-i lbs. per yard. A roll weighs 50 lbs. and comes in width from 80" 
to 32" wide. This paper board is made out of straw and is then saturated 
with tar. Roofing felt or a better quality of sheeting also used for this pur¬ 
pose, is made from old rags, etc., and is in fact a felt, thoroughly saturated 
with tar; this weighs for No. 1. 2£ lbs. per square yard; No. 2, If lbs. and 































































108 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


No. 3, 1 ^ lbs. per square yard. Of the two kinds the tarred-roofing felt is 
undoubtedly the better. The cost is somewhat higher than that of the 
tarred paper board, although the latter is a somewhat stiffer material, and 
regarded with favor by many roofers and slaters. I may also state that 
some roofing firms use even a lighter grade of tarred paper board than 
No. 2 in some cases. 

The following are general rules and data which will be useful to the 
student: 

A square of slate roofing is an area of 100 superficial feet of slating 
when laid. By the term gauge is meant the distance between the courses 
of the slate. By the lap or cover is meant the distance which each slate 
over-laps the slate one below it. This lap varies f-om 2 " to 4". The 
standard is 3". The margin is the width of the course exposed to the 
weather; the pitch of a slate roof should be at least 1" in 4 for the best 
results. 

To compute the surface of a slate when laid and the number of 
squares of slating, subtract the lap from the length of the slate, which is 
3". Half of the length remaining will give the surface exposed, which 
when multiplied by the width of the slate, will give the surface required. 
Use the surface thus found to divide the sum of square inches in a square 
and the result is the number of slates required to make a square. (The 
foregoing table has been figured by this rule). 

Example: The size of a slate being 8 "xl 6 ", lap 3 ', how many slate 
are required for a square of slate when laid? 16 — 3 = 13 2 = 6.5 

X 8 == 52", 14,400" - 4 - 52" = 275.48 or as the table gives, 276 nearly 

The weight of slate varies from 2 to 4.53 lbs. per square foot and in 
thickness from .125 to .3125 of an inch. The average weight of slate is 
from 167 to 181 lbs. per cubic foot. It requires nearly 2 J sq. ft. of slate 
to make one of slating. The principal slate quarries in this country are 
located in Rutland Co., Vt.; Washington Co., N. Y.; Northampton, York 
and Lehigh Cos., Pa.; some in Virginia; Monson, Me.; and in Baraga 
Co., Mich.; and in different other localities to some extent. Most of our 
red, green and purple slates are found in the quarries of New York and 
Vermont. The blue-black and black varieties are found in the other states 
mentioned. The Lehigh and Bangor brands are from the quarries in 
Pennsylvania; of these brands the Bangor brand No. 1 seems to be the 
favorite with consumers. The celebrated Peach Bottom brand is also a 
Pennsylvania slate. This variety of slate is principally noted for tough¬ 
ness, making it one of the best and most durable known for the purpose of 
roofing. Of all the different varieties of slate, the clay slates stand at the 
head, both.in price and in general worth. 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


1(9 


The best kinds of slate to select for use are those that are easily split 
and are of a compact grain. If hard they should not be too brittle, or it 
soft they must be tough and free from impurities, thus being non-absorb¬ 
ent of water. The familiar experiment of setting the slate upright in a 
dish of water and noting how far the water ascends by capillary attraction 
in the substance of the slate, is still one of the best tests that can be made. 
In a good slate the water should rise only slightly above the surrounding 
surface. A slate which draws up the water to a considerable height should be 
avoided as likely to be destroyed by frosts and the disintegrating influences 
of the air when exposed to the same. Some slates apparently hard and 
non-absorbent decompose on exposure to the air by chemical action. These 
are best detected by placing samples in test tubes and covering them with 
a saturated aqueous solution of sulphurous acid. A bad slate will always 
begin in a few days to crumble away, while a good sample will resist the 
action of the acid for weeks and even months. 

Good slate also has the ability to withstand a considerable amount of 
heat and this without crumbling or cracking. The average crushing re¬ 
sistance of first-class brands of slate is from 18,000 to 20,000 lbs. per 
square inch. The foregoing qualities are in a measure the property of all 
the various firts-class slates, these varying from a dark, deep black to blue, 
if uniform in shade, with a clear ring, they may be considered as unfading 
and of good quality. The other shades, such as the sea-green or purple varie¬ 
ties, are with some exceptions not so reliable as to their ability to retain 
their original color. Of the red varieties, the medium grades are the most 
reliable, being tough and the best to retain their original color. The de¬ 
fects inherent in some of the softer kinds of black slate, which appear on 
roofs in the shape of spots or a white efflorescence after the slate has been 
put on but a short time, and in some cases ruining the roofs, is principally 
caused by carbonaceous matter and disseminated sulphide of iron partly de¬ 
composed. Great care must be used in selecting slate of this grade. See 
that they are even in color and have a good ring to obtain the best results. 

The hardness or specific gravity, contrary to the usual belief, gives no 
reliable indication of the quality of the slate. A better test consists of 
striking them together or tapping them with a hard substance. If they 
ring clearly under this treatment they are likely to be good, and a dull 
sound or percussion usually shows a poor slate. 

Of the different grades that slate is classified into, the No. 1 grade is 
of course the best. This is the grade which is free from knots, of smooth, 
even texture, of straight grain, and of a solid uniform color. The second 
grade in some cases is nearly up to the standard of good slate, but it will 
be noticed that they are mostly lacking in one or more of the points enum- 


110 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


erated for the standard for No. 1. The third grade of slates is what is 
known in the trade as ribbon slate. This latter kind are slates that have 
sometimes a band, varying from an almost inperceptible line to a band 
from a half-inch wide to one or two inches wide, running through their 
width or across their face. This kind of slate is very easily broken and I 
may add, a kind that cannot or should not be used if a good job of slatinglis 
to be done. 

As a rule, all slates contain fine lines, running parallel with what may 
be termed planes of secondary stratification or crystallization. By holding a 
roofing slate a little below the eye and inclined from it, these lines may be 
seen. If they run parallel with the long side of the slate this is properly 
cut, and, if of good quality, will keep its place on the roof. If the lines run 
across the slate, or at an angle with its sides, it is likely, whatever the 
quality, to break across or lose a corner at the least provocation. 

It may be of interest to give the method of laying or slating a roof, 
that contractors of the cheap or lowest bidder class sometimes use 
wlun they get a chance. A job of this kind is generally done in the follow¬ 
ing manner: Strips from two to four inches wide are used and laid an equal 
space apart, as the strips are wide, or even further apart in some cases. 
These strips are nailed to the rafters with as few nails as possible, so that 
they will not slide or roll off the roof when the extra weight that the slate 
imposes upon them to hold to the roof is placed upon them to hold there. 
Some “Jerry” contractors would even go as far as to put no paper on these 
strips under the slate at all if they dared. Then by using the cheapest 
grade of ribbon slate and as few nails as possible, they use no cement and 
to cap the whole operation, have the cheapest grade of help with which to 
do the work. It is easily seen by this how parties of this stamp, by follow¬ 
ing the methods described, are able to underbid and to the discredit of the 
trade in general, to often succeed in getting work when competing with 
honest firms who do good work and bid accordingly. In contrast to the 
foregoing a first-class job, to be done well in every particular, requires that 
the quality of the slate is fully up to the required standard as indicated for 
goo t woik. In the stock selected, all inferior slates are thrown out, and when 
or where cement is needed it should be used; the slate should be securely 
and properly nailed with the proper lap and exposure for the best 
results. The sheathing should be of properly seasoned stuff, with no mora 
sp ice than one inch between the boards and these securely nailed to the 
rafters and covered with a good quality of roofing felt. On this the slates 
may be laid according to the size slates used as indicated in the foregoing 
rules and directions. Then the workmen should be mechanics to the full 
extent that the name implies—men who are able to set tfie slate in perfect 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


111 


line, and do their own laying out of their work from a set of plans, whether 
of a plain or ornamental design. They should be able to do all the cutting 
and trimming so that when the slate is laid it will present a smooth and 
finished appearance on the roof. In short, to do a first-class job of slating 
requires mechanics of a high order in this trade, men of good judgment, 
cool heads and a high grade of skill. These are the desirable and the only 
grade of workmen who will do work as it should be done. The following 
are a list of some of the tools used by slaters. One large and one small 
trowel, one leather belt with loops to attach or fasten tools to when at work 
and a nail pouch fastened to it in such a way as to be handily got at to get 



the nails when required. A dressing stake as in Fig. 104, and a slater’s 
knife as shown by Fig. 105. These two tools are used to trim, dress, and 
by some slaters who have no slate-dressing machines in their shops or 
yard, to make the nail holes through the slates, before they are taken to the 
job where they are to be used on the roof. These tools are also used on 



Fig. 105 


jobs where there is any mitering, trimming, etc., to bo done. Fig. 106 
shows the common roofing stake; this is a more handy and lighter tool 
than the dressing stake, Fig. 104, and which can be fastened in almost any 
convenient position on a roof. The slater’s hammer, as Fig. 107 shows, is 
so well adapted to the various uses that it is put to, that there is probably 
no better shape that could be devised, that would meet all the requirements 






















































112 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


made of a first-class slateing tool of this kind, as the shape now in general 
use is as presented by Fig. 107. A hammer as illustrated in the figure, 



combines the following features in one tool. A slater’s knife, a claw to draw 
nails, the flat-faced end to drive nails and the other end to punch nail holes 
through the slates. The tool shown by Fig. 108 is called the ripper; it has 
a long thin blade with two notched flat hooks at its end, used for the pur¬ 
pose of drawing out or cutting nails with which the slates are fastened to 
the sheathing, so that the slates can be drawn out from under those laid 



over them, in case it is desired to replace a slate when broken or for any 
other cause. This tool has its handle so arranged that it keeps the hand 
free from contact with the roof so that it may not be injured when using 
this tool. There are some slaters who use a more extensive kit than the 
tools indicated. The above are those that can be bought from any slater’s 
supply house, and are made in a superior and better style than they could 
be made by any shops outside of the regular manufacturers. That is, these 
tools can be bought cheaper from them than from any firm not regularly 
engaged in manufacturing such tools could make one single tool of the 
kinds that a slater uses to order. This fact alone is sufficient to show 
why it is policy to buy them from the regular trade. Any other small 
tools that a slater may want any blacksmith can make for him on short 
notice, and that in any shape that he fancies or wants them made. 
Roofing cement can also be bought from supply houses anywhere. The 
cement used is Portland, roofer’s putty and cement made from iron ore, 
oil, lead and cement. Many roofers have their own favorite cemenv for 
this purpose. 

















































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


113 


XXI. 

DETAILS FOH VOHlTLOfiTKIi AflD HR^lfiO JAITBH 

PATTE1RHS. 

In the chapters XIX and XX the preliminary details, outlines of the 
designs, weights and all necessary data to estimate the total cost of a cor¬ 
nice and the slating as demanded by the designs shown by the Figs. 89 to 
92, are given in full. Some of the more important parts of the cornice are 
drawn to a larger scale than what the full design as Fig. 89 gives. This 
has been done so as to enable the student to more readily understand how 
to transpose drawings from one scale to another of a different scale of 
measurement. How this is accomplished has been given fully in the 
preceding chapters. 

In the following descriptions and methods which I will make use of to 
lay out the various parts entering into the make-up of this design, I will 
make frequent and numerous references to the drawings shown in the pre¬ 
ceding chapters, particularly those which have been enlarged to the scale 
of one inch to the foot, from the original elevations as shown by Figs. 89 
to 92.. 

The first detail of the entire structure, which I will treat on in full, 
will be the section of the horizontal cornice designated by the letter B of 
Fig. 89, and the adjoining section C, as shown by the Fig. 90. These 
two sections B and 0 form a right-angle miter where they join to each 
other, both being horizontal cornices, and each having the same height 
vertically but differing from each other in their horizontal width as is 
shown by the profiles 5 and 6 of Fig. 93. The section No. 5, when the 
stretch-out of the same is shown fully developed, will also show the miter 
line of the same as demanded by the junction of this section turned to the 
right hand, as shown by the Fig. 90. The enlarged view of this section 
is shown by the Fig. 102, which is 1" to the foot. In the development of the 
various miters and stretch-outs I have made use of a still larger scale, namely, 
2 " to the foot. By using this larger scale a more convenient and plainer 
drawing is presented to the student than what the cramped and smaller 
scale allows of, thus enabling one to make the different and numerous lines 
on the drawings in such a manner that they can be easily traced and 
readily understood by the student. I will assume that the general hints 
and rules given in preceding papers on this branch of cornice work have 
been read by the student and that he will avail himself of the information 
and knowledge he has obtained therefrom to the fullest extent as far as it 
is applicable to the problems presented by this cornice now under considera- 


114 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


tion. In particular, I would advise him to adopt the shortest methods to 
accomplish the end sought for, namely, the laying out of correct patterns 
for the different problems met with in the development of the various parts, 
miters and stretch-outs of this cornice. 

Some of the most important considerations and items to be borne in 
mind by the person arranging the different parts of this cornice are how 
to cut the different parts out of the iron to the best advantage with the 
least possible waste, then in arranging the grouping or assembling of the 
various parts of the cornice aim to have the work in such shape before it 
leaves the shop that it can readily be transported to the building on to 
which the work is to be placed, and finally that the operation of fastening 
the work permanently into position is simplified to the least possible 
degree. To illustrate this last point, the Fig. 101 furnishes a very apt 
example of where the generalship of a thorough mechanic in this branch 
has full scope to display itself, although the example in itself is not one of 
the most intricate which are often met with in cornice work, yet it will 
serve the purpose to show where a very material saving of time and labor 
may be effected by adopting the right way to attain this result; namely, 
instead of arranging the details of these members in 3uch a shape that 
they would be intended to be put upon the building piece-meal or singly, 
the better method would be to make this entire section of the cornice as 
shown by the drawing Fig. 101, solid or in one piece, embracing the mem¬ 
bers shown by profiles 5, 6 and a part of 7, all joined permanently to the 
turret as the drawing shows, and when so done this much of the cornice 
could be put up on to the building in one piece and permanently fastened 
into its final position. As will be noticed, I have deemed this subject 
worthy of a rather critical treatment. In addition I would urge the stu¬ 
dent to bear in mind that if it is desirable for him to attain the highest 
grade of efficiency in this branch, the hints given as to their general appli¬ 
cation in this class of work in the cornice trade must be applied and can¬ 
not be ignored if the best results are aimed at. 

The first step in getting out these problems is fully set forth in the 
following: Draw the profile of number 5 to any convenient scale as shown 
in Fig. 109. I have drawn these profiles to the convenient scale of 2" to 
the foot, the plan and elevations being drawn to only to the foot. I 
regarded the latter scale as too small for the purpose of giving the full 
development of these figures; for this reason I preferred the 2" scale which 
gives the student a better chance to more readily understand the full 
development of the problems which follow. 

As will be seen, the profile number 5 of Fig. 109 gives the full outline 
of B of Fig. 89 and also corresponds to 5 of the Fig. 101. As this projeo- 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


115 


tion is drawn to the correct width as demanded for the same by the plan 
Figs. 92 and 103 in all its different curves and molds, this member will 
serve as the guice and in a measure determines the outline of the member 
number 6 of the horizontal cornice which miters onto it at right-angles, as 



shown by the plans Fig. 92 
and 103. The vertical height 
and also the horizontal width 
of both these members being 
fixed, it remains only to obtain the true outline 
of either profile, one taken from the other as 
the case may be, if one outline has been drawn, 
this being the case in this instance as the Fig 
109 shows. For number 5 in this case the 
manner in which the entire operation is accom¬ 
plished is as follows, both to obtain the correct 
corresponding profiles and also the data for the 
miter line for both members, as demanded for 
this case. I may add at this instance that the 
same principles governing this case are also 
applicable to most any problem where it is de¬ 
sirable to join moldings of different widths to 
gether and their development in full. 

First draw the line A to B, Fig. 109. The 
distance from point A to C in this case being 
made only the precise length demanded for the 
miter or width of section number 6; I leave it to 
the student to add whatever length is desired on any cornice he may employ 
this method for, my aim being merely to show how to develop the data for 
a miter-joint of this class, the line from 0 to point 2 being at right-angles 
to line A to B-—as shown for the top of this section. The outline of the 
profile is shown from point 2 to 41; this completes the projection of section 
number 5. Next draw the miter line S to A as shown. Draw line A to K 
at right-angles to line A to B. Draw the line S to N as shown, the dis¬ 
tance from point A to N is the same as the extreme width of section 5 
shows as a matterhf course. Now the lines from both the lines S to N 































































































































116 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


and S to 0 downward have the same corresponding length to 
each other as shown, but their positions are different on a horizontal 
plane as shown where they cut the lines S to N and S to C. Or to 
give another description and a more graphic illustration of the true 
relation of these various lines to each other, I will put this problem 
in this way: assume the rectangular space bounded by the points 
S, N, A and C, which is cut by the line S to A, is one end of a block equal 
in length or height as the distance is from line S to C to the line 38 and 



39. Stand this block on one end, draw the projection as shown by 5 on one 
of the widest vertical sides of this block, or suppose that the line S to C 
hinged the tw*> surfaces so that the side number ? could be dropped to a 




















































































































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


117 


vertical plane against the side of this block. The outline of the profile as 
shown may now be divided into any number of convenient parts, as has 
been done in the drawing from 1 to 41; draw from the points as found or 
determined by the division of the outline of the profile lines, cutting the 
ine S to C and ending at the miter line S to A. All these lines are 
at right-angles to the line S to C, or, in other words, to the upper edge 
of the rectangular block. Now if each of the dotted lines were marked on to 
the projection drawn on to the vertical side of the block and continued on 
to the top end as shown, then if the block were cut into two parts verti¬ 
cally on the line S to A and also the outline of profile cut at right-angles to 
the side on which the same is marked on, an exact shape as it is desired 
the envelope for this section shall have would be the result. Then again 
if the solid block as last described be cut through vertically on each dotted 
line as shown for this section, where these lines of separation would occur 
on the line of the profile which shows on the face of the diagonal vertical 
plane the point of intersection of the miter occurs for that plane both ver¬ 
tically and also the position of its extreme end on a horizontal plane. All 
the foregoing also applies to the narrowest projection of this block for the 
section number 6. 

The manner how to determine the correct relation and its shape so as 
to correspond to the section number 5, is as follows: All the dotted lines 
of section number 5 being carried to the miter line S to A from the point 
of intersection of each and every line drop lines at right-angles as shown 
cutting the line S to N of 6, and extending below this line precisely the same 
distance as the same corresponding line extends below the line S to 0 in sec¬ 
tion 5, where this termination of the lines occursfis the true position of the 
outline for the profile of section 6 for that particular point as developed by 
the foregoing operation for each line. Through the points thus found draw 
the outline of the profile as found, whicn is shown so done in the drawing, 
each point being numbered corresponding to the profile of section 5. The 
position of the lines as shown gives the positions of all the points in the pro¬ 
jection 6, or, in other words, they give their location on the horizontal planes 
of this profile. 

This much completes the description of the Fig. 109 and gives all the 
data for the development of the stretch-out of both sections, and also their 
miter lines where they join at line S to A. The Fig. 110 gives a still fur¬ 
ther exposition of the various changes that occur when the outlines of pro¬ 
file of the section number 5 is presented to the view at different angles from 
that of the end view of this section. Number 1 of Fig. 110 correspond to 5 
of Fig. 109, and is so numbered in Fig. 110. The plan is also shown. Now 


118 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


let it be assumed that the entire section 1-5 of Fig. 110 is swung around 
on a horizontal plane with line C' S' as center or pivotal line so that 
the line 0 to S would be at right-angles to the line S to C, as pre- 



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Fig. Ill 


sented in the plan view after this change has taken place. The miter Im5 
in this new position, or rather the vertical plane of the same if viewed from 
the same point as the vertical plane of section 1—5 is viewed from in the 













































































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


119 


on a horizontal plane with line C' S' as center or pivotal line so that the 
line C' to S would be at right-angles to the line S to 0, as presented 
in the plan view after this change has taken place. The miter line 
in this new position, or rather the vertical plane of the same if viewed from 
the same point as the vertical plane of section 1-5 is viewed from in the 
drawing, will present the true outline of section 2-6 or 6 of Fig. 109. 

It will be seen in this view that none of the vertical lengths of any of the 
proportions of this section are changed in the least, but that a corresponding 
change has taken place in the aspect of all the horizontal distances of this 
figure 2 6 from those of the outline of section 1-5. This much proves and 
establishes the correct outline of section 6 of Fig. 109, and gives the true 
outline and length which the envelope or stretch-out of this section must 
be made. The true outline that the plane presents where the junction 
or miter occurs between the two sections 5 and 6 of Fig. 109 has been de¬ 
ducted from the foregoing and is fully shown by the outlines of number 3 
of Fig. 110. The foregoing descriptions of these simple geometrical evolu¬ 
tions are imperatively necessary to be fully understood by the student as 
they are but simple step-stones to the more complex and difficult problems 
to be mastered in the development of shapes further on. These principles 
once learned, a great stride has been accomplished by the student toward 
the rapid and easy solving of the most difficult problems. The next step 
to be taken is to measure up the profile of section 5 of Fig. 109. This 
measures from point 1 to 41, 30J". Now instead of allowing 2" lap at the 
top of the crown of this section, allow only 1". This will allow of using 
30" wide iron for these sections. This has been done in this case and is 
an instance where the practical application of some of the hints given be¬ 
fore come into play in regard to the saving of material and of adapting the 
design so that the least expensive size of material may be used to fulfill all 
the requirements as demanded by the design. Draw the line A to B of , 
Fig. 111. Divide this into as many divisions as the profile of section 5 of 
Fig. 109 demands; make each point thus drawn to correspond precisely as 
it is on the outline of section 5. The longest line to be drawn at right- 
angles to line A B of Fig. Ill need be no longer than the distance from 
point A to 0 of section 5 of Fig. 109. Then the distance between the line 
A B to line D E is 22" only, as demanded by the plan Fig. 103. As the 
end of the section B of Fig. 89 shows a flat surface only, this is, as a mat¬ 
ter of course, shown by a straight cut or line only on the stretch-out by 
line D E. Next draw out all the lines for each point as marked on the 
line A B of Fig. Ill from 1 to 41. The distances that these lines are 
apart from each other are, as a matter of course, determined by the dispo- 


120 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


sition of the corresponding points as developed by the'divisions on the pro¬ 
file of section 5 of Fig. 109. The lengths that each and all the lines have 
out from line A B of Fig. Ill are all correspondingly given for each and ev¬ 
ery line in the space between the line S to'O and the miter line S to A of Fig. 
109, and are each transposed to the corresponding line of Fig. Ill, thus 



Fig >113 


establishing the true length of each in that figure, as for instance the line 
14 of Fig. 109 has the same length in Fig. Ill, etc. After all the respec- 






























































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


121 










































122 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


tive distances are so transposed and established on these lines of Fig. Ill, 
draw a free-hand line through the points thus found, and the miter line 
for the junction of the section 5 of Fig. 109 with the section 6 of the same 
figure is done. This kind of miter is sometimes termed by cornice makers 
an inside right-angle miter. 

The stretch-out of section 6, of Fig. 109, measures 26^-"; this can also 
be made out of the narrower material, namely, out of iron 26" in width. 
Draw the line A to B of Fig. 112. Divide this line into an equal number 
of parts as the line of the profile of section 6 of Fig. 109 shows, placed the 
same as they are shown by that figure as to their proper and relative posi¬ 
tions on line A B of Fig. 112. This has been done. Obtain the length for 
all the lines from the space between the line S to N and the miter line S 
to A of section 6 of Fig. 109. These distances transposed to their proper 
corresponding lines of Fig. 112 establishes the miter line for this section 
to the section 5 of Fig. 109. Draw a free-hand line through these points 
as found and the miter line is done, as shown by line X to X' of Fig. 112. 

The next consideration that this section demands is the development ot 
the mitering or joining of the same with the turrets, as shown in Figs. 89, 
90, 92 and 102. For this purpose draw a parallel line to line A B of Fig. 
112 just 11" apart from the same; this last drawn line will cut this section 
at right-angles and at the extreme point of where the circular turret cuts 
this section vertically. This line is shown in Fig. 112 by line C to D. I 
have qpt put this line in its strictly relative distance away from line A B, 
but instead have given the distance in figures as it should be in this case. 

This much is as far as the development for this section can be gone 
on with until the necessary drawings are first made showing the line of 
contact of the same with the turret. The Fig. 118 gives this point in full. 
In this figure is shown a complete outline of one of the turrets as far as 
is necessary to show the position of the profile of section 6 of Fig. 109 and 
also the plan of the turret. It will be noticed that the spiral flutes are not 
shown in the drawing at all. These we will leave out of consideration 
at this stage altogether as they are intended to miter on to the face of the 
more important members of this section of the cornice and also to the tur¬ 
ret. I will reserve them for a special treatment further on. 

The following are some of the main preliminary details of this draw¬ 
ing, Fig. 118. The line A to B shows the wall line; to this is connected 
the line C of plan, showing the relative position of the turret to the two 
faces of the wall in the plan. From a to b shows the outline of the entire 
profile of the section 6 as it shows in elevation to the turret. This outline 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


123 


is divided into spaces, numbered as shown, and is correspondingly trans¬ 
posed to the stretch-out, Fig. 112. From the points or spaces that are 
markod on the profile, dotted lines are carried to their respective relative 
points of contact with the turret as shown in the plan. The entire prob¬ 
lem to be solved may be stated as follows: The cornice is a horizontal 
molding, as the profile 6 of Fig. 109 shows, fixed in position against the 
wall line A to B. This molding is cut by the circular turret vertically, the 
outline of the turret being in outline partly straight and partly composed 
of various curves and moldings as the outline of the base of the column in 
Fig. 113 shows. The horizontal section thus cut vertically by the turret 
joins or has its line of contact with the turret at the greatest depth into 
the body of the moldings at the center line of the turret vertically, as shown 
by line C D of Fig. 113, and as a consequence the horizontal section partly 
miters or joins on to the body of the circular shapes of the members of 
the turret, partly in front of the center line and out from the wall line 
of the building, and also partly in the rear of the center line which, as a 
matter of course, places this part of the cornice closer to the wall and join¬ 
ing or mitering to the receding part of the circular turret up to a point 
where it joins on to the wall itself. It will be noticed that all the differ¬ 
ent members of the entire design, Fig. 113, are placed in strictly correct re¬ 
lationship to each other,as the plans and elevations, as given before, demand. 

The operation of developing this problem is as follows: First draw the 
wall line A to B; then the angle from line A to B to 0. Then draw the 
elevation of the turret itself, placed in its correct position as is shewn in 
Fig. 118. Draw in elevation the outline of the profile of the section of the 
cornice as demanded by 6 of Fig. 109. Some of the main outlines of the 
principal moldings and turret may now be drawn in plan, as shown in 
drawing. After the foregoing has been done the real work begins of ob¬ 
taining the data for the development of the stretch-out which miters on to 
the turret. The first step to be taken now is to divide the outline of the 
profile of the horizontal cornice into the most suitable number ’of spaces, 
which will do to lay out the desired stretch-out; this has been done, as the 
drawing fully shows for this case, numbered from a, 1 to 27, for the first 
set of spaces, and from 1 to 11 and b for the second set. The stretch-out 
is the same for this profile as it is for number 6 of Fig. 109, with the dif¬ 
ference that the miter line that is to be developed has to conform to the 
circular shapes on this end instead of uniting to another molding as it does 
on its other end to the miter line of section 5 of Fig. 109. The line 0 to D 
of the stretch-out, Fig. 112, is shown divided into the same number of 
spaces as the profile demands and is also numbered to correspond with the 
same. It will be seen that the profile miters against the circular part from 


124 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


1 to the 28 only; the balance of the divisions miter against the circular 
moldings down to space number 8. From this point down the molding of 
the turret again assumes a vertical position as far down as the lowest break 
or bend in the profile occurs for this section. 

On the upper part of the column of the turret is also shown how the 
section 6 appears after the same is fitted to the column, viewing the l?ne of 
contact from the left end of the building or the reverse side. In develop¬ 
ing the parts that occur on the left-hand side of the gable cornice the same 
operations as done for the right-hand end are used to develop the different 
sections, only with the difference that they miter to the reverse from those 
that are shown by the Figs. Ill, 112 and 113, and will have to be done ac¬ 
cordingly when they are gotten out and at the same time they will have to 
be made to the lengths and measurements horizontally as their respective 
places, into which they are to fit, demand for them to be. The actual 
lengths for each space and line used to develop the stretch-out are found in 
the following manner. I will describe the entire operation to obtain the 
data for one line or point only, for as all the lengths of the remaining lines 
are found in the same manner one description will answer for all. 

In this case, point number 1 of the profile has been selected. The 
circle numbered 1 is the plan for both the upper column and also for the 
part marked number 8 or part of the outline of its base. As has been no¬ 
ticed, the part of section 6 from point 1 to 23 miters on the column and as 
a consequence all the connecting dotted lines shown for these points in 
Fig. 113 end on the plan line of the same, thus establishing the actual 
lengths for all these lines. The line X to X' is drawn at right-angles to 
these lines, being the farthest point that the circular moldings of the turret 
cut into the body of section 6, and as a consequence this line is shown on 
the stretch-out, Fig, 112, by line 0 to D, and is the line from which all the 
distances and points that make up the outline of the miter line for this part 
are set out from to establish the correct relative position and lengths of 
each and every line in this problem appertaining to the miter line of tho 
stretch-out. 

Now for the point 1 of profile: connect this point, as shown by the 
dotted line, from point 1 to 1' of plan line; then the distance established 
on the line thus drawn between line X to X' and the point V of plan line is 
to be transposed to the line 1 of stretch-out, Fig. 112, using line 0 to D as 
starting point, and the miter line as drawn is the termination of its length. 
The foregoing gives every move that is needed to work out each of the fol¬ 
lowing lines of the section 6 from points a-1 to 23, as all the foregoing 
miter lines have their ends terminate at the vertical circular wall of the 
turret, as shown by the circle 1 in the plan of the same in Fig. 118. It is 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


125 


understood, as a matter of course, that the measurements of the lengths of 
the different lines vary according to the planes and different positions that 
they are located in, horizontally and vertically, but at the same time all end 
at the same plane line. This is all shown in the drawings. The points 24 and 
25 are the two which recede the farthest into the body of the stretch-out, as 
shown in Fig. 112. This is caused by reason of the part 2', of Fig. 113 : 
projecting out, and in the part of section 6, as a consequence, this is shown 
on line C to D of the stretch-out, corresponding to the distance shown at 
line X to X' of plan. The two points, 26 and 27, miter on circle 1 of plan 
which is the same as number 3 of the outline of the base of turret to which 
these two lines join. The receding curve of the base is divided into as 
many corresponding planes as the profile of the cornice is divided into parts 
for the section from 1 to 11-b. This is shown by the line 1 to 8, and 
corresponding planes at right-angles to the same, cutting this part into 
horizontal planes. 

The plan shows these planes in outline numbered from 1 to 6, and 
the quarter circles as shown give them in detail for the points 6 to 11 and 
b. All these points’ of contact are given in the drawing and transposed 
in their respective correct positions on the stretch-out, Fig. 112. 

In all the foregoing deductions and operations made use of in the de¬ 
velopment of this problem, the line X to X' has been taken as the starting 
line for all the measurements of all the lines and distances as drawn out 
at full length on the stretch-out, Fig. 112. The circle A of plan has been 
given to show the relative position of the furthest outside point that the pen¬ 
dant comes to when the same is in position and finished. The dotted line 
inward from the outline of the receding curve of the base of the turret 
shows the line of contact that the section 6 has with the same from a side 
elevation, or a view at right-angles from that which it has as demanded for 
this case. This view also gives the distance that the stretch-out has to 
project forward from the plan X to X' so as to come in contact with the re¬ 
ceding curve of the base which it assumes at ea^h point where the fixed con¬ 
dition of the rigid moldings of the section 6 project so as to form this miter 
or line of contact as demanded by the drawings of Fig. 118. Although the 
entiie problem is shown in the fiat or on one plane, the operation is the 
same as if the plan were on horizontal and elevation on vertical planes, 
these situated at right-angles to the axis of the plan, parallel to the line 
X to X\ 

I would advise the student to give particular attention to the arrange¬ 
ment and grouping of the different sets of lines to each other in this 
problem. He should not be satisfied until he has thoroughly comprehended 
each step taken, and made the knowledge, how this problem is solved, his 


126 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


own. Then he will be prepared to solve the raking or gable cornice mi ter t 
which joins the other side of the turret, with greater ease and a good deal 
more satisfaction than if the method used in this problem had not been 
mastered before attempting to solve the more difficult problem which will 
be presented by the junction of the raking cornice with the turret further 
on. The foregoing also completes the entire stretch-out, with both miter 
lines for the section No. 6, as demanded by the elevation C, of Fig. 89, 
and also the opposite section D, at the other end, at the base of the gable 
cornice connected with the turret at that end. 

The next section in order is the raking or gable cornice. The height 
of this member, as deducted from the elevations, is 15J-" and 8" wide at its 
widest part. The profile is drawn out in full in Fig. 114, and is divided into 
37 parts as the drawings show. To obtain the data for a miter of this class, 
draw the angle that it is desired the rake should have, as has been done in 
this instance in the drawing Fig. 114. This completed, draw or project 
lines parallel to the top or bottom lines of the profile, cutting the points as 
found for the proper division of the same, and extend these last drawn 
lines until they intersect the miter line of the angle desired. This is shown 
in this case by line A to B. 

Next erect line C to B at right-angles to line 0 to A. From line C B 
to the miter line gives the data for the correct lengths of all the lines used 
in developing this problem. When drawing the lines that cut the different 
points in the profile, have a line cut at each place where a square bend or 
break occurs, and also as many as are deemed necessary for the easy de¬ 
velopment of each curved part when the same is laid out on the stretch-out. 
The usual way that cutters employ when laying out work of this kind is 
to first make the drawing on paper and then lay the paper on the sheet of 
iron out of which it is desired the stretch-out is to be cut, and prick the 
different bends and places that are to be bent in the brake at each end of 
the piece used; the same is also done for the outline of the miter line, but 
close enough so that the correct outline can readily be cut to these marks 
as pricked. It is of course not necessary that the entire lines be drawn 
out on the iron, as has been done in the drawing, but for the work on 
paper I would advise to always do this. The drawing then explains itself 
at a glance, which would not be the case if it had been only half-done in 
the first place, and had, perhaps, been laid aside for some more important 
piece of work at the time which had to be got out at once. Then, when 
this is finished, if the first drawing is fully drawn out in all its details, it 
is far easier to take it up again at once than it would be if it were but in¬ 
completely done, so that most of the work would have to be studied over 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


127 


again before all the short cuts, etc., would be once more fully understood. 



Little matters of this kind, if properly attended to in tbeir proper time, 
often save time, money, vexation and extra work, which in itself ought to 
be inducement enough to cause the hints to be followed in regular work 
of this kind. 

The stretch-out of Fig. 114 is shown fully developed by Fig. 115; the 
width of the same is 23J"; this allows the use of iron 24" wide for these 
members. Divide the stretch-out into as many parts as the profile is di¬ 
vided into, which in this case is 37. The line A to B in this figure corres¬ 
ponds to the line C to D of Fig. 114. Transpose the length of each line 
in regular order from Fig. 114 to the corresponding lines of Fig. 115; 
when so done draw the miter line through the ends or points where the 
lines end as demanded by Fig. 114, and the miter line for a raking mold¬ 
ing or, as often termed, a pediment miter, is completed. The manner in 




128 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 





. 


















































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


129 


which these pieces are best joined together has been described in previous 
chapters and need not be gone over again in this instance. 

In Fig. 116 is shown the gable or raking section mitering on the tur¬ 
ret, as the elevation demands for it in this ease. The first step to take 
is to draw a complete correct outline drawing of all parts of the turret that 



are necessary to develop the required data for the development of the shape 
that miters on to it, as the outline of A, of Fig. 116, demands. This has 
been done in Fig. 116, as shown by the solid outline drawing of the turret. 
Also draw the plan lines as shown for all the more prominent projecting 
parts that occur in the outline of the turret on which the raking moldings 
of section 7 miter. Then draw the profile and the connecting lines of the 
same to the angle of inclination that the gable cornice is to have when in 
position as shown by B and C. 

Divide the profile B into any number of parts, as many as the person 
working out this problem sees fit to make use of, or which could be em- 










































130 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


ployed to the best advantage in solving this problem. As will be seen in 
this instance, I have divided this profile into 38 points or 37 parts. From 
each point thus determined on, lines are drawn parallel to each other, ter¬ 
minating each one at the point where its correct point of contact happens 
to be on the surface of the turret. To ascertain the point of contact of 
each line as drawn for the profile B, the following method is to be used 
in this case. First, the part of this figure as described for the profile B 
so far, gives a representation of how the section 7 actually appears when 
finished, mitering on to the turret, and in position on the building for this 
side of the gable cornice. Second, the dotted outline C shows how the 
profile appears on a plane cut through the section 7 on line C to S. Tha 
dotted outline n, m to k is merely introduced here to show the relative po¬ 
sition of the section C or profile 6, described before, to the raking gable 
section now under consideration. Third, the foregoing being fully under* 
stood as to the various positions that all the parts have to each other in 
this design, Fig. 116, assume that the turret has been turned one-quarter, 
or, in other words, that the position of the line D to E is turned so that 
it is presented to the view as line D' E', or center line of the turret. Fourth, 
this view as presented, by reason of such change as described, will place 
the section 7 in the position as shown by the profile A, presenting the 
profile B in a vertical plane instead of a raking one, if the elevation of 
profile B is first swung into a horizontal position before such change 
is made. 

The actual operation of changing the position of the profile from its 
inclined position to that of a vertical one is not necessary to be shown in 
this case, as if so shown, the great number of lines, extra drawings, etc., 
would only tend to confuse the student. For this reason I have omitted 
showing the same in this drawing, but have only shown the profile as it 
actually appears after such change has been made. In this case it is not 
strictly necessary that the outline of the profile A is put into any certain 
fixed position vertically. It could have been shown just as well either 
above or below the entire design, as in the position in which I have placed 
it, the object of drawing the same being to show the position which the 
planes assume, which are projected from the points that the profile is di¬ 
vided into by a vertical view. The profile B shows planes horizontally. The 
vertical planes as drawn show the position of each point on these planes as 
cut by the vertical planes, and also so that by extending them, as has been 
done in the drawing above profile A and continuing them to where they 
come in contact, or where they touch the outline of the turret, the actual 
length that each line has horizontally and also where they come in contact 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 13i 

With the plan lines of the turret, are shown. We now have only to allow 
for the extra length which is added to all the lines by reason of the pitch, 
or the inclined position that the problem calls for. This extra length can 
readily be determined for each line, by drawing lines at right angles to the 
center line of the plan as the lines a b c d and e give for each curve that 



length and position of the same at its point of termination. Now whatever 
distance the^e is between the lines as directed to be drawn and the curve 
on which the same miters, is the distance which the lines that correspond 
to these in the elevation must be lengthened or projected beyond the line 
D E of the turret, in order to show their true length which is to be trans¬ 
posed on the stretch-out when the final drawing for the miter line is made. 
To illustrate: the length to be added to the line 2 is from 0 to O' trans- 
















































132 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


posed to O', 0" shows the point of the termination at 0"; this establishes 
the true length of the line 2 of the front elevation. Then again take the 
line 15; this distance as shown is scarcely perceptible, transposed to where 
its correct position is in the front elevation it is there shown as demanded. 
The same operation has been done for all the rest of the lines which miter 
'o the upper cylindrical column of the turret. It may not be out of place 
here to remark that the line of contact as shown by the line from point P 
to X shows the same on the side nearest to the person looking at it from 
the front; the line of contact below this point X is on the other side of the 
cylindrical column and as a consequence is hidden and is shown by the 
dotted line which the continuation of line P to X. The line C to R, 
wnich cuts the profile of B, is used as the starling point to take all the 
lengths for each line as transposed to the stretch-out, Fig. 117, line C R 



having the same relative distance from the end of all the lines in that 
figure as it has in Fig. 116 at B. The foregoing description and method 
to solve this problem is as simple a way to attain the end sought as has 
come to my notice. There are other methods to solve the same problem, 



















































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


133 


but they are somewhat more complicated than the one shown in this case 
and as it covers all the points fully, I have given it in preference. 

I have only shown in the Fig. 116 how to develop this problem down 
to line 24, as all the lines up from 24 to line 1 miter to the one shape; that 
is, the column of the turret is all of one diameter for these lines. In Fig. 118 
the development from line 24 to 38 is shown, but to a scale of 3" to the 
foot, this being larger than the size that Fig. 116 is drawn to and can be 
more conveniently read owing to the fact that the entire drawing is not so 
such crowded, as would be the case on the smaller scale. This drawing 
shows all the features as presented by Fig. 116, only that the parts shown 
are given more in detail. A gives the section from line 24 to 38 in front 
view. B shows the same profile for the plan lines. From a to 33 shows 
the line of contact that this profile has with the outline o! base of pillar 
of the turret, and farther down, the points for Nos. 34 to 37 would show 
but are cut away by the curved members of the pendant. All the above as 
described when the section is in position on the building, viewed from the 
front, can not be seen from that point of view, and as a consequence, must 
be shown in the drawing by dotted lines as has been done on the side on 
which it is located from the center line of this figure. Line K to K' is the 
center line. In order to show how this problem appears when the line of 
contact is shown in full, I have simply reversed it on the right hand side of 
the center line of the drawing. Dotted lines are dropped from the points 
24 to 36, cutting the plan and showing the positions of these poinst or lines 
as projected at their correct line of contact from that point of view, then 
ontinuing these same lines they end and show the line of contact that 
they have with the various curves and shapes of the base of the turret 
viewed from the front, as this view gives it. It will be noticed that this 
exposition goes a step farther and also shows the different upward corners 
that are to be filled out underneath some of the moldings. This is not so 
plainly shown in the drawing on the left-hand side of the center line of 
this figure. It will be noticed that some of the lines apparently end at the 
face of some of the parts which they come in contact with, but they again 
appear underneath the same member down lower and farther into the body 
of the drawing; notably is this the case with the line 29 and some of the 
intermediate lines between lines 28 and 29. This is also the case with 
line 32. All these different features are drawn out in full in the stretch-out, 
Fig. 119, and there is shown each line in its full minute development, as 
demanded for this problem. The line L to M of Fig. 119 corresponds to 
the line L to M of Fig. 118, and is the line from which all the lines for 
their lengths on the stretch-out are measured; that is, measure from this 
line to the points as shown in the drawing for the respective length of any 


134 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


line in this part as the length of the line 35 is from line L 'M to point 35 
and the same is correspondingly so transposed to line 35 on the stretch-out. 
Or the length of line 29 shows first from line L M to 29 then again from 
point 29' to point 29" where it ends and is so shown on the stretch-out, Fig. 
119. As stated before, each line in this problem has received the same 
minute treatment in all its details, making the line of contact complete of 
every bend or curve as demanded by the drawings. This problem has been 
carried to this length to show how it is done in every phase so that the 
student will be competent to lay out every detail embodied in it ?f he so de¬ 
sires. 

But there is one point that I would draw his attention to in this 
case, which is that in actual work it is seldom that where joints and miter 
connections occur, which are in any way hidden or in such position that 


-ET 



they are not seen, that any too much pains are taken in the cutting out or 
putting together of such parts. Some cutters, if they had a case such as 
occurs in this problem, would hardly go to the pains and lay out the pat¬ 
tern in all its minute details as has been done in this case, particularly so 
in that portion which miters to the base of the pillar, and which for the 
most part miters on the receding rear portion of it, and as a consequence, 
is partly if not wholly hidden from the view when the entire structure is 
finally put up into position on the building. The foregoing may serve as 
a hint to the student in cases of this kind. I will leave it to his own 
judgment in regard to how much work to put into this detail or how much 
he can safely leave undone and still produce a good job so that the same 
will pass inspection and be rated as well done by the supervising architect 
who passes on alJ work done on the building. 

























CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


135 


XXII. 


DEVELOPMENT OF DETAILS AND PATTERNS OF 

THE TOILETS, 

In the preceding chapter I have given a full exposition of the various 
methods for developing the patterns for the different miter joints that oc¬ 
cur between the members of both the horizontal and the raking gable cor¬ 
nice of Fig. 89. The next members of this structure which I will describe 
and explain how they are to be laid out in every detail are the turrets that 
are shown by Fig. 101. In work of this character it is well to have a 
clearly defined plan how it is intended that every member that enters into 
the make-up of an entire structure is to fit and be joined to the next mem¬ 
ber. The entire modus operandi should be fully determined before com¬ 
mencing the work. This is made necessary by the simple reason that there 
are several ways of doing the work involved in the structure, as shown by 
Fig. 101. There are several different and distinct ways for the disposition 
of the various pieces that compose it; instead of being made out of two or 
more pieces, members can be made out of one piece only; then the various 
other points, such as joining the edges of the members together, either to 
double seam, butt or l ip-joint them, etc. All these points alluded to will 
be fully treated in the following for this particular case. I will give several 
different ways that most of the members of the two turrets can be made. 

The first member or part of either of these turrets that I will discuss 
will be the vertical circular part between the top of the flange of the pen¬ 
dant and the lowest part of the ornamental cap, this being the part to 
which most of the horizontal as well as the gable cornices miters, and is al¬ 
so the part to which the spiral flutes are fastened, as is shown by Fig. 101, 
between the molding S S at the lower end and the molding 1 to 2 at theupper 
end of the vertical circular column of the turret. In the measurements as giv¬ 
en, this part is shown to LeOJ" in diameter and 2' 7"higli between the mold¬ 
ings S S and 1 to 2 of .Fig. 101, or as may be considered that part which 
would show between the square molding A of Fig. 120, commencing at A 
and connecting at its other end with the round molding A' of Fjg. 121 at 
B; that is, if the two Figures, 120 and 121, were connected by the column 
in one drawing. Now the question is, how best to lay out the envelope of 
this member? One way would be to make it just 2 7" in length and 2' 
5|" wide for the circumference, with a half-inch added for the lap for that 
part which is solid above the part of the cylinder which is set over on the 


136 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


corner of the wall of the building. Connections could be made with the 
square flange A' at a, of Fig. 120, and with flange B of Fig. 121 for the 
other end of the described cylindrical member, and would be one way of 
doing this part of the work on the turrets. 

A better and more solid job than the foregoing is shown in the follow¬ 
ing description how to arrange the different connections of the different 
parts that are joined to the vertical cylindrical member under consideration. 
The first point of difference by this method from the one previously de¬ 
scribed is that the cylinder, instead of being cut off or ending at point a, on 
flange A' of Fig. 120, is continued downward to point C. This operation 
adds If" to the length of the cylinder; then at its top end, instead of end¬ 
ing it at point b of flange A of Fig. 121, continue it sufficiently long enough 
to provide for enough material, in order to produce the shape as shown in 
the drawing from point 2 to point d of Fig. 121. The shape as shown is 
produced by stretching the end of the cylinder until the shape as desired is 
obtained. This is a comparatively easy matter to do, involving less labor 
and time than would be required if the first described method were used for 
this member. The extra length that the cylinder will have, to allow for 
the additional curved part at the top, is 4J", making the full length of the 
entire cylinder as described 3' If" long over all. It will be seen that if the 
method as last shown is used for this member it makes the entire structure 
considerably more rigid, stronger and simpler, and easier to build. The la¬ 
bor of producing the curve of the part B of Fig. 121, as shown from 1 to d, 
involves only the operation of enlarging the end of the cylinder If" all 
round or 3J" altogether. In order to do this quickly, and at the sami time 
produce a first-class job, the following method is recommended. Bo all 
the stretching ovsr a rounding stake whose surface conforms to tee direc¬ 
tion and sweep that the curve of the section is to have when finished. 

Commence to enlarge the cylinder from the point 1, doing this at first by 
easy stages; then as the process of enlarging the curve progresses toward 
the larger end stretch the same correspondingly more than has been done 
at the start of the curve. Care must bo taken not to stretch the iron 
too much at the start, and that the whole operation is done gradually. 

Feel the way along; in brief, use a little common sense and judgment 
when doing work of this class. Good results may be expected if the fore¬ 
going suggestions are followed. 

It will also be observed that the flanges A' of Fig. 120 and A of Fig 
121, by using this method, fit on the outside of the cylindrical vertical sec¬ 
tion. This is shown for flange A" from a to c and for flange A from 1 to 2. 
Now, if the general arrangement of this end of the cylinder is or had been 
made as shown by the other end of the molding A—that is, the cylinder 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


137 


cut off or ending at b and the section B ending at X at its lower end, the 
molding A would be the member which would have to sustain the entire 



weight of all the numbers of tin cap above it, and that without any o lnr 
bracing than that which its own natural stiffness and the rigidity of the 



































133 


CORNICE WORK MANUAt 


material would offer against its collapsing or bending out of shape while 
sustaining the weight. A similar state of conditions would also occur at 
the other end of the cylinder if the foregoing described method were used to 
construct the connection at the square molding A of Fig. 120, only in a 
more aggravated shape in so far as this molding would have to bear consid¬ 
erably more weight than the other one has. By the foregoing comparison 
of methods the intelligent workman can easily see which of the two is ihe 
proper and the better one to adopt for the purpose, and why I recommend 
the method which is followed for the construction of the parts as described. 
The lower cylindrical part as from L to k of Fig. 120 is to be made as the 
measurements demand for it to be, as shown in the drawing; namely, 7” 
diameter and 10J" high when done. If the workman is so disposed, he 
may also make this part of the turret after the same general directions 
that have been given for the larger cylindrical part of the turret. As is 
easily seen, this section from S to K is precisely similar to the foregoing 
described sections, with this difference only, that it is somewhat smaller. 
The reasons why I have made the same project down into the pendant as 
far as shown in Fig. 120 will be fully explained further on when a descrip¬ 
tion of the pendant is given. 

The next step will be to give the best way to construct the various 
moldings that are used for these turrets, such as the moldings A' and B, of 
Fig. 120, and A of Fig. 121. One way often used is to cut out the top and 
bottom circular disks for a square projection, as for the molding A', of Fig. 
120. These disks are cut out with sufficient allowance for flanges both at 
their outer as well as inside edges. Then when these flanges are turned as 
demanded a plain strip made of the width the flange is to be is soldered to 
the outside edges, and this completes the molding. D, of Fig. 120, shows 
the foregoing described disposition of the different parts fully. 

The foregoing involves a considerable amount of work which cannot 
possibly be avoided if some such method as the above described is made use 
of to construct these parts of the turrets. I may add that the method de¬ 
scribed is about the only one that cornice makers generally know of by 
which to do a job of work of this class. A far easier way, which also makes 
a neater and stronger molding than those produced by the first described 
method, is as follows: Take the square molding A D, of Fig. 120; make a 
straight square bent piece of the same width as tire stretch-out and equal 
in length to the circumference that the extreme outside edge of the square 
molding is, or this piece can be cut in two parts making each half the 
length that the circumference demands, with an allowance for laps added, 
which are required to join the two pieces together when they are finally 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


139 























140 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


The stretch-out or width that the pieces are to be made is shown by A 
of Fig. 122 which shows the end view of the pieces made out of one piece 
A' of the same figure gives an end view of this molding if it is made out of 
three pieces. This is clearly shown in the drawing. When getting out the 
two pieces which are needed to form the molding as demanded by the draw¬ 
ing in Fig. 120 for the molding D A', care must be taken that due allow¬ 
ance is made for sufficient material on the inner curve for the burrs or 
flanges which are to be turned on the molding, as shown in the drawings 
for this part, A' at a and b of Fig. 120. All the foregoing preliminaries 
provided for, bend the strip to shape, as shown by A of Fig. 122. The 
shape of the sections done as far as described would be straight, as shown 
by one of the strips at B, which is only partly formed to the shape desired. 

The manner in which the shape is produced, as in Fig. 122 showing 
the molding when formed up, will be described in the following. Fig. 
123 shows one of the common crimping machines used in nearly all shops, 
mainly for crimping the small ends of conductor pipes, etc. Most of 
these machines have an attachment consisting of a pair of beading roils 
at the outer ends of the spindles: these rolls, as a matter of course, in 



Fiji 1ZZ. 


order for the machine to be suitable to accomplish the following operation, 
must be taken off from the spindles or shafts of the machine and the 
shafts themselves cut off so that the crimping rolls appear at the ends as 
shown in Fig. 123. If a machine of this kind is at hand, arranged as des¬ 
cribed, we may now proceed to form up the moldings in the following 
manner: Place the square-bent piece with one of its inner edges between 
the crimping rolls; turn down the set-screw c, Fig. 123, but slightly, then 
run the straight square- bent molding through, causing the side thus 
















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


141 


treated to become slightly corrugated. One side done as described, reverse 
the molding and do the same for the other side or edge. The foregoing 
operation repeated two or three times, but each time with increased pres¬ 
sure on the rolls will cause the molding to gradually assume a circular 
shape as demanded for the section D, of Fig. 122, and the molding D A', of 
Fig. 120. The method as described can also be used on larger work than 
is required for this case, and is in the opinion of the writer a cheaper 


and neater way of doing the work than the other. There are occasions 
where this method could not be used, but where the crimped appearance of 
the surfaces does not matter or affect the general appearance of the work, 
I would advise to use it wherever applicable. In the case of the 
molding D A', of Fig. 120, this plan of obtaining and producing the cur¬ 
vature of the sections of which the molding is composed also adds greatly 
to its rigidity and improves the appearance of the whole structure of the 
turret. At C, Fig. 122, is shown by a plan view the quantity that has to 
be cut out of this molding in order to allow it to fit into its proper position 
against the corner of the wall when the entire turret is completed and put 
in its final position on the building in connection with the horizontal and 
gable cornices. The burr or edge 0 O', Fig. 122, is then turned, which 
completes the square-cornered molding D A' ready to be soldered to the 
cylinder E, of Fig. 120. The reason why the action of crimping the edges 
of the straight-out pieces causes them to assume the circular shape, is the 
corrugations as formed by the crimping machine gathering the metal to¬ 
gether at the edges more than they do nearer to the outer flat surface of 
the moldings, and thus, without stretching the metal, causing them to 
form in the circular-shape as desired, The next molding in order would 



















































142 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


be the round-face mold, as shown by B, of Fig. 120. Moldings of this 
kind are often made in two parts and are joined together at the seam in the 
center, as shown by seam X X, Fig. 120. If this method is used to con¬ 
struct the molding for this case, two circular flat disks of material will 
have to be cut for it, the outside diameter being equal to twice the distance 
from center line F to point R. The inside disks, which are to be cut out 
of these again, are to have a diameter of 7". From this is to be deducted 
the quantity that is to be allowed for the edge or burr ab t t', or the inner 
edge of the large disks. Then after the pieces of material are cut as 
wanted, the rounding outside edges are to be bumped or raised to the de¬ 
sired shape. The Figs. 124, 125 and 126 show three very desirably 



Fig. 124. Fig. 125. Fig, 126. 

shaped raising hammers used for this style of work. These styles of mold¬ 
ings can also be made by the same general method as described for the 
flat-faced styles, the only difference being in the shape of the outer face of 
these moldings from the square or flat variety as the mold D A' of Fig. 
120 is shown. The foregoing description in every detail is also applicable 
to the molding A, of Fig. 12 L. As to the manner of producing it need not 
be repeated again, the only point of difference being that the measure¬ 
ments of all the diameters are somewhat larger than the molding B, of 
Fig. 120. I will also describe another method to produce these styles of 
moldings. The modus operandi is as follows: Cut a flat strip equal in 
length to the circumference to the outer edge of the molding, and equal in 
width as the stretch-out of Fig. 127 shows from 1 2 to 3. This strip is 
fastened together, forming a wide band or hoop, and beaded to the desired 
shape in an ordinary heading machine, for which special rolls have been 








































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


143 


made to suit the style and shape of the molding desired. 

Fig. 128 shows a beading machine made for this purpose. As will be 
seen, this method does not allow for any moldings that have considerable 



Figi M 


depth, or if they are very wide in the face, but for certain special styles and 
sizes it is an excellent one, and is about as cheap and easily arranged a style 



of machine as could be devised for the purpose. Especially is this true in 
regard to the case of accomplishing the inter-changing from one set or 
style of rolls to those of another profile, as the circumstances may demand 
for different designs. If a half a dozen different sets of rolls are prepared 
and made to be used especially for this style of machine, each set having a 
profile conforming to a standard style of moldings, I would venture to 
assert that this would be sufficient for all ordinary requirements of any 
small cornice shop for this special line of work, and would be a great con¬ 
venience besides being a material help in the getting out of work rapidly 
and economically 


















































144 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 



For more elaborate curves and designs, if it is desired that they b@ 
formed to shape by machinery, I would recommend some of the more 
elaborate and special molding machines now on the market. These ma¬ 
chines are, as a matter of course, more costly than the kind described and 
illustrated to some extent by Fig. 128. 

In connection with this description of some of our American-manufact¬ 
ured machines for curved moldings, etc., descriptive illustrations and special 
designs of which can be obtained from any cornice-maker’s tool supply 
house, I have introduced two views of a machine made in Germany and 
used for this class of work. 

Fig. 129 of this machine presents somewhat the appearance of a large 
beading-machine. By using a set of gauges as shown by Fig. 130, some 
very fine moldings can be produced. The machines are adapted so that 
they can be adjusted vertically, horizontally, or to any radial adjustment 


Fig 


129 , 


that may be necessary to meet any requirements demanded from them for 
different styles of moldings. As will be seen by examining the two figures, 






































Cornice work manual 


145 


these machines do not differ to any great extent from our beading or swaging 
machines, excepting in the gearing, and also that the standard is especially 
designed for a machine of this character. Different styles of rolls are 
at the foot of the standards in both views, showing to some extent the range 
of profiles that moldings can be made to by these machines. 



Fig. 130. 


The molding A, of Fig. 121, as shown by the Fig. 131, is produced by 
the method as described for the molding B, of Fig. 120. In the description 
of this last-mentioned molding the size or length of the band is given as 
equal to the diameter of the outermost point of the circular face of the 
molding. If this direction is followed a safe allowance is provided for, an 3 
in no case is there any danger of the molding not having enough mateiial 
so as to be long enough to go all the way around the vertical circular part 
of the turret against which the molding is fitted and fastened. 

In the course of the operation of beading or swaging th j 
bands to the shape as the profile demands of each, there occurs consider¬ 
able stretching and at the edges of the material some compression by 
a machine as described. Just how much stretching there occurs by the 
operation is a matter that is best studied and learned by actual experience* 























































146 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


Different shapes and kinds of material vary somewhat as to the exact de¬ 
gree that the metal stretches, but it is safe to assume that it does stretch 
some more or less. The safest method is to make allowances for enough 
material, so that when the shape desired is produced no shortage occurs; 
how to do this has been shown. 

The next members of the turret that I will describe are the sections C, 
of Fig. 120, and B, D, Eand F of Fig. 121. I will assume that instead 
of continuing the circular piece as shown by the projecting vertical pa^t k, 
of Fig. 120, so that it would, by flanging it outward, form the curved ac¬ 
tion C in one piece, it had been determined to make the curved section 
C, from a to b separate and independent of the others. This bein^r 
determined, the next thing in order is to develop the pattern for the enve¬ 
lope of a form which by proper manipulation and treatment will produce 
the shape demanded by 0, of Fig. 120. There are two other sections of the 
same general style as C, of Fig. 120, in the make-up of these turrets, 
namely, the sections B and D, of Fig. 121. The section E, of the same 
figure, may also be classed under the head of flaring curved moldings, if it 
is made in two parts. A detailed treatment of this section will be given 
further on. If the cutter has to lay out a pattern for an envelope of a 
curved moulding, as the section C of Fig. 120 shows, the first step is to 
get the correct radius for the sweep of the patterns. If the same is to be 
raised or stretched to the shape and curve as shown by the drawing, by 
hand, that is, by hammering out the correct curves, the outline of the 
frustum of a cone as ne*eded for this problem must be of a size so that it 



will have a point of contact with the curve desired, as shown at the point 
X. This point of contact is precisely in the center of the curve a to b. 
Then the radius, as shown by the dotted line from a to c', must be an 
equal distance away from the curve at both the pdints a and b, as is shown 
in the drawing, This disposition of the angle of inclination of the outline 
toward the center point C' gives the frustum its proper shape for a prob¬ 
lem like this. It will be seen by this disposition of the angle that the frus- 







CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


i4f 


tum will have when aone, both the top and bottom end require an equal 
amount of stretching to produce the curve desired. This would not bo the 
case if the angle were at any other degree and, as a consequence, it is cor¬ 
rect. 

From point X the slant height that the frustum is to have depends 
on the distances that the curve has from the center point X to the points a 
and b, with an allowance for the required lap above point a, as shown in 
the drawing. The correct length and position of the required radius deter¬ 
mined, the envelope can be drawn as shown by the sweep and outline for it 
from center-line at R out to G and again ending at point L, being the en¬ 
tire stretch-out of the required envelope of a frustum of a cone as the prob¬ 
lem demands. When the pattern is cut out, allow for locks or laps; then 
form the flat part or parts (if made out of more than one piece) to the 
shape of a frustum of a cone. Fasten the same together by whatever 
mode the fastening is to be and proceed to stretch the two edges to the re¬ 
quired curve as the drawing shows. This is done by first drawing and 
stretching by hammering the material with the proper tools on the inside 
of the cone. The mechanic who is doing a piece of work of this kmd, as a 
matter ol course will understand that the cone, in order to have the round¬ 
ing shape as the curve from a to b demands, must not stretch the iron as 
much at the point X as he does when he gradually'works toward the t?/o 
outer edges. A few general hints may be added here for the guidance of 
the workman on this class of work. These are: Don’t be in a hurry at the 
start, but make haste slowly. Do not pound the material too hard when 
an iron stake is used to stretch the material on; and last, but not least, try 
and work evenly. Have the blows of the stretching hammer fall on the 
iron in such a manner that the entire surface presents a fine and finished 
appearance when the work is done and not, as some botchy workmen turn 
out work, with the surface all dented and bruised where, in some places, 
they did not strike with an evenly balanced blow with the hammer, and in 
other places where they did not hammer the material at all. Next turn the 
edge r as demanded and this part is done, ready to be put into its proper 
place on the turret. 

The directions given for the section 0, of Fig. 120, also apply in every 
particular to the section B, of Fig. 121, in order to produce the same as 
demanded by the drawings. In this case I have added an additional allow¬ 
ance for the straight-down part from point 1 to 2 for this curve. The ra¬ 
dius for this single section of B is shown from points 8 to 4 and center 
point at C\ H shows a broken view of the envelope for this frustum of a 
cone. For the section E, if it is determined to make it out of two parts. 





CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


with a seam at line a b, the radius from points X, 0 to the center point C 
is the correct length for these parts. L shows part of an envelope for ono 


Scale 2 " to the Foot. 























CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


149 


of these parts drawn out as wanted for this method of producing one-half 
of the shape of section E, Fig. 121. 

The section E can also be produced by forming up a straight cylinder 
equal in diameter to the narrowest part that this section lias, as from 
points b to d. The distance from points X to X' is the length of the re¬ 
quired material for the curve from points K to y, and is the required width 
or height that the cylinder would have to be made to in order to make the 
required shape as section E calls for. The two ends of this cylinder form 
the point d to the point X for its upper end and from point d to X' for its 
lower one are to be flanged and stretched in the same manner as described 
before for this kind of work; also make allowances for proper connection 
laps, at each end where this section fits to the adjoining sections and parts 
of the turret. 

The next style of molding to consider, which w.e have to develop for 
these turrets, is the section D of Fig. 121. As will be seen, the curve of 
this section is outward instead of in ward,as the foregoing described sections 
were. In order to strike the correct radius for a molding such as this style 
requires, always have the two points at an equal distance away from the 
curve, as at points k and 3; then instead of having the radius line in con¬ 
tact at the center of the curve at the outside, as at point S, if there is 
considerable sweep to the curve, as from points k to 8, have it cut at the 
curve somewhat to the inside, as shown in the drawing. This will save, in 
some instances, considerable stretching or raising and is especially appli¬ 
cable in this case, as this section D has considerable curve between points 
k to 3. Another point: when forming up work of this style of molding 
curving outwardly, as section D presents, do not use the bumping-hammer 
too much, but rather try and use a round-headed tool for a stake and if 
possible try and form the shape by using a wooden mallet for this purpose. 
It will be found, that in a great number of .instances this method is 
sufficient to produce the desired shape, and, I may add, that it is a far more 
expeditious way of doing the work than with a raising hammer, providing 
that the work in hand can be done in this manner. I would advise, when¬ 
ever allowable, to use the quickest way of getting there. It may at times 
be necessary that recourse be had to the raising-block and hammer to sink 
or bump a curve. Whenever this is necessary, do so. 

The section F, of Fig. 121, will be in the shape of a flat band or hoop 
of the proper size. This section is so simple that I do not deem it neces¬ 
sary to give it any particular description at this time. M and N are the 
stretch-out for the three sections, D, F and B, if they are all three made 
in one piece and are to be formed up to shape by using a circular molding 


150 


CORNICE WO UK MANUAL 


machine for this purpose. The angle that the outline has for a frustum of 
a cone, needed for the production of a molding, or a shape as the curves 
from point X to X" have, is shown by the line from point U to center point 
W. This at the same time gives the length of the radius and also the way 
of averaging the pitch of the angle that it passes through the profile of all 
the moldings of this member. In contrast to this last described angle that 
the frustum of a cone has for these sections D, F and B all combined in 
one, notice how much difference there is from it in the pitch of section I) 
alone, as from point k to the center point at li. This latter divergence is 
caused by the reason that if one section only is done, the radius and pitch 
of the cone must conform to a degree of outline for it, which offers the 
best possible shape for an easy attainment of the desired curve as demand¬ 
ed, so that the curve can be produced from a cone as developed by the least 
amount of labor possible. On the contrary, when a number of sections are 
all made out of one piece, the pitch of the outline of a cone must be aver¬ 
aged in order to allow all the different bends to be obtained from one 
piece; and that the material while undergoing the process of developing the 
various bends, will offer the least possible amount of resistance. This 
point is fully covered. 

In the disposition of the radius and angle line, as shown by line v to 
w of Fig. 121, for this case, and which may, with a little modification, be 
'applied to almost any problem in this line, it will be well for the student to 
make himself thoroughly familiar with the principles governing this class of 
moldings, as given in the foregoing. 

The ornamental hemispheres ou section E are to be trimmed and 
fitted to the section; each one of them is to be soldered to its correct rela¬ 
tive position, as shown in the drawings. Another curved molding for this 
turret is shown by the section I, connecting and serving a3 the base upon 
which the large ball is fitted to the cap of the turret. P gives tte envelope; 
make its outside curve equal to the circumference of the bottom end of I 
and the top curve equal to the top of the column I. At point y is shown; 
the center point of the radius by which the envelope P is drawn. At poinfi 
X is showm the other end of the outline of the cone from which the curved 
column I is developed. The raised piece e in the drawing is cut in the 
flat, equal in diameter to the length from point a to b of the raised disk c. 
When a flat circular piece has been cut as directed, the rounding edge is 
then hammered or raised as the disk shows. When so done, it is to be neatly 
trimmed and fitted to the center on the top to the cap of the turret and 
securely soldered to it. 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


151 


The next section which I will describe is the cap of the turret. As 
will be seen in the drawing, Fig. 121, the outline of the cap shows that it 
is not exactly (by a side view) a true hemisphere, but somewhat less, as 
shown from the center point 1 to the base line 2 to 3, in Fig. 121. One quar¬ 
ter of the plan is shown from point 4 by the quarter circle to point 2. The 
cap is to be made out of eight pieces; the plan is so divided by the line O 
to t. In order to develop the pattern for a stretch-out of one of these parts, 
proceed as follows: Divide the line 1 to 2 into any number of equal parts. 
This has been done in the drawing in six equM parts. Drop lines from 
points to base line 2 to 3. From where these lines intersect the base line 
1 to 2, using point 0 as center, draw the curv s abode. The foregoing 
description is all that is necessary for all the data required to lay out the 
pattern for the various sections which are need-d to complete the cap. Fig. 
132 shows one of the required sections fully devrloped. To lay out a pat¬ 
tern, as shown by Fig. 132, proceed according to the following directions: 
Make the line 0 to X equal in length to line 1 to 2 of the outline of the 
oap of Fig, 121. Divide 3me 0 to X into as many equal parts as the line 1 
to 2 of Fig, 121 haa been divided into. Next, draw the straight lines a to 
e at right-angles to the center line 0 to X, and equal in length to the cor¬ 
responding curved lines shown ^ them in Fig 121. These lines evenly 
divided, as shown, and connected by the curved outlines 0 to t and 0 to 3, 
and also points S and t connected by the curve line t, X and S, using 0 as 
center for the same, completes the outline for one of the eight sections for 
a cap of one of the turrets, Figs. 101 and 121. The extra length that is 
added to the width of these sections by reason of transferring the length of 
each one of the curves of Fig. 121 to the straight transverse lines of Fig. 
132, or in other words, the fact that the length of the straight lines of Fig. 
132 have been made equal to those of the curves in the section of the plan 
of the cap of Fig. 121, causes the pattern to have a greater width than a 
strict geometrical and an actual measurement of the surface taken on. the 
outlines that these plans would show, as represented by plan curves of Fig. 
121. The reason these sections are made wider is, because, in the opera 
tion of raising or bumping and forming it will be found that on curved 
work there is some liability of the metal not stretching at all and also of 
the edges fraying or becoming rough by the action of the hammering, etc., 
making it necessary to trim the edges before joining the sections together. 
An extra allowance of metal is also shown for laps on the edge 0 to S. 
The four dotted cleats are left on every piece which serves to hold several 
of the sections together when more than one is fastened and hammered up 
to shape at the same time. The bottom piece having these cleats only, 


152 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


o 



then two or more sections are laid on to it, the cleats turned over and fas¬ 
tened down; thus they serve to hold the pieces together while the operation 
of forming the sections to shape is in progress. The sections can either be 
double-seamed or lapped as the workman may determine when construct¬ 
ing these members of the turrets, but whatever method is adopted, this must, * 
as a matter of course be allowed for when the sections are laid and cut out. 

Figs. 133 and 134 show two old-style appliances in use many years 
ago to form and block up raised work in cornice shops. In connection 
here it may be stated that similar dies and blocks are still to be. found in 
many cornice shops throughout the country, these establishments finding 




: Mia 

Fig m. 







































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


153 


it cheaper to use some such contrivance as Fig. 133 for the purposes stated* 
than to invest in the rather expensive and more elaborate machines made 
for these purposes. The two views, Fig. 133, may be briefly described: 
The top pieces or plunger part and the bottom dies or negatives are made 
from some tough and enduring kind of hardwood. The shape that it is de¬ 
sired the molding shall have, to which the material is to be formed, is du¬ 
plicated in the profile and curve that the wooden plungers and bottom dies 
are made to. The shanks at the bottom part are shaped so that they can 
be conveniently fastened to any bench or block which has a suitable hole cut 
out for it, so as so allow the shank of the bottom die to fit into it, and 
serve to hold the die securely while the workman is manipulating the upper 
die on the metal placed between the wooden tools, where it gradually as¬ 
sumes the shape desired by reason of the forcible pressure imparted to the 
upper plunger by means of blows struck with wooden mallet, as shown. 

The block and die, shaped as shown by the view b of Fig. 
183, would nearly do for the forming to shape of the sections needed for 
the cap of Fig. 121, and of which Fig. 132 presents a fully developed sec¬ 
tion in the flat. I will next describe how to lay out the fluted sections of 
the pendant of which a part view is shown by the dotted lines of Fig. 120. 

Fig. 185 gives a complete plan view, showing how the various parts 
that the pendant is composed of are fitted and placed to each other; it also 




shows the correct position that the pendant has in relation to the wall-line 
of the building, as shown by P, 0 to S in part A of Fig. 135. The center 
Jine, A to B, divides the plan view A from the part B, which is a complete 


























154 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


elevation of the pendant, an outline of which is shown by the curve 1 to' 
10. By part C is shown a complete half of the stretch-out of one of the 
sections, from point 1 on center line A to B to point 10 corresponding to 
the same length as the curved outline of the elevation B. The dotted line 
shown near the solid curve of the outline and connected to it at all the points 
from 1 to 10 by short solid lines, gives the extent of the curve the sections 
have throughout their entire length. At each transverse solid straight line, 
as shown by the stretch-out of part C, is also shown by the dotted curves at 
each line the amount of curvature the section has at this particular point ai 
which the straight line is placed. These straight lines, as described, have 
the same length that the dotted-line curves have; in fact, their length is deter¬ 
mined by these, and is so shown in the drawing. At the points thus deter* 
mined, the curved outline of the sections cuts and forms a continuous line 
from the top to the bottom of each section, as from point 1 to 10 of the 
outline as shown in Fig. 135 for part 0. In the plan view of one of the 
sections is shown with all the profiles of the points drawn out which are to 
be cut in order to enable the pendant to miter against the corner which cuts 
into the pendant at that point. The line that the cut has through the sec¬ 
tions is shown by the wall-ltne S, C to P. The full development of the 
stretch-out of one of the?e sections is shown by D. The dotted line shows the 
course which the cut has when the pattern is in the flat, before it is formed 
to shape as demanded by the outline of the pendant. The deduction and 
transferring of the distances from the plan view to the stretch-out is so 
simple and so plainly shown in the drawing that no further description is 
needed for this point. There being two sections which are affected by the 
position of the pendant which it occupies in relation to the corner of the 
brick wall, the relative position that they have, both to each other and to 
the wail, is shown in plan, part A, of Fig. 135. This merely makes it nec¬ 
essary that the section adjoining the one shown by D should have a corre¬ 
sponding piece cut out of its surface as the piece D has, only to the reverse 
side, as shown by the section D. This completes all the necessary descrip¬ 
tions of the method of cutting out the sections that are needed to make up 
the complete pendant. Each one of the sections can have a small burr 
turned on one side, to which the corresponding raw edge of the adjoining 
section can fit, then they can be soldered together; that is, the foregoing is 
to be done after the sections have all been formed and hammered to the 
shape that the profile of the pendant demands each section should have. 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


155 
































































156 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


Referring again to the vertical cylinder that projects down into the 
pendant, as shown in Fig. 120, if the cylinder has a solid bottom at the 
end K which makes*the cylinder stiff and solid, it is easily seen that it 
offers the best form of a stay, and a good solid background on which, when 
it is made up complete, the pendant can be fastened. This secures for the 
pendant a means to stiffen it all around where the bottom of the cylinder 
touches the sections inside, and also from where an additional fastening for 
the sphere L can be made, independent of what it would have if it were 
soldered only to the pendant at the end of the sections at X of Fig. 120. 

Another point, if it is decided that the 7" cylindrical and the curved 
section C of Fig. 120 are to be made out of one piece, it is necessary to 
older the molding B to this member before fastening the pendant to it. 

If all the parts so far described for the turrets are made up and ready 
to be put together, a good plan would be to use the following order of ac¬ 
complishing this object: First, put together the caps, then fasten the 
column I and the top sphere securely to it; then add the section E and 
then D and F. Next in order, finish the pendant and sphere and the parts 
up to section C. Then fasten either of these parts of the turrets to the 
large cylindrical section E and connect it with the remaining part. Solder 
every joint well. 

Pay particular attention to and be careful that the entire structure is 
in perfect alignment throughout. Never allow work of this kind to have 
the appearance of being lop-sided or bear the ear marks of carelessness and 
incompetence. After the turrets are completed as far as described in the 
foregoing descriptions, they may be connected to the sections of both the 
raising as well as the horizontal cornice, which miter to them It now only 
remains to add the spiral flutes to the cylindrical part of the turrets and 
this operation makes them complete. The methods by which these flutes 
are produced in every particular are fully explained and illustrated by the 
Fig. 136 and are as follows: The problem presented in this instance devolves 
itself into developing the square or block-shaped spiral flutes in the best 
manner. To attain this end there are several methods by which this may 
be done, three of which I will describe in full. Fig. 136 shows that the 
spiral has a degree of pitch which causes it to revolve around the cylindrical 
column one and one-half revolutions. The tracing of the course which it 
presents when fully developed is shown by the dotted line from point B to 
A for one-half revolution and from that point it makes one continuous 
curve completely around the column to point C, ending at its extreme upper 
end. The outer and upper outline curve only is shown for the spiral in the 
drawing # above point A to point C by a solid line for that portion which is 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


157 


presented by a face view to the person viewing the drawing. The inner 
curve or that part of the flute which is in contact with the column, is shown 
by dotted lines only in the drawing, as it would appear viewing it from a 
front view, considering the line C, A, B as the center line of such view. 
These preliminaries noted I will first discuss one of the simplest methods 
used by some cornice workers of producing a series of spiral fiutes or ridges 
on the surfaces of columns or on work pertaining to the same general char¬ 
acter as the turrets uuder consideration. The operation consists in merely 
bending up the ridges as desired in a brake; the ridges as a matterof course 
c§n not be as deep nor as sharply cornered as those shown in Fig. 136. I 
have merely giveu this description to show how a simpler style can be pro¬ 
duced than the variety shown in the drawings. The course of the line of 
contact that a spiral has on the surface of a cylindrical shape as in tbe col¬ 
umn of Fig. 136 is merely a straight line drawn diagonally across the 
stretch-out of the circumference of the column at an angle coinciding to 
whatever rise or pitch the spiral has. In a case as shown by Fig. 136 this 
angle would be as indicated from point C to A, which is equal to one-half of 
the circumference of the desired spiral for this case. Having shown by the 
foregoing that the line of contact is only a straight line on the surface of a 
stretch-out of the column, it can very readily be seen how ridges represent¬ 
ing spiral flutes can be produced in the flat or a stretch-out of a column by 
the use of a brake. Provision must be made for the extra amount of mate¬ 
rial required for the flutes thus produced on the stretch-out of the column. 
The foregoing described method is a favorite one with many cornice makers 
to accomplish the desired effect on work of this class, providing the re¬ 
quire! projections are within reasonable bounds, or are not too large to al¬ 
low the stretch-out after the aforesaid flutes have been bent up in the brake 
on the flat piece to be readily bent and formed to the proper required shape, 
whatever that may be, to suit the work in hand. One of the simplest 
methods to accomplish the desired result for the problem as presented by 
Fig. 136 is to simply bend up a strip of the required profile as shown by D; 
this made in convenient length or such lengths as are demanded in this 
problem to miter to the horizontal and raking cornices which join the tur¬ 
rets. After the pieces are bent to the shape as profile D demands, they can 
be subjected to the process of running the edges 1 and 2 through the rolls 
of the crimping machine, Fig. 123. By this treatment the required degree 

of curvature is obtained, which with the proper twist given by the workman 
to the flutes, cause the same to assume the appearance of the spiral of a 
screw as demanded for the flutes in order to conform to the shape they must 
have to fulfill the conditions as set forth by Fig. 136. The foregoing dea- 


153 CORNICE WORK MANUAL 

cribed method is the simplest one by which the work involved in the pro¬ 



duction of these spiral flutes cxn be done, and is to be recommended for the 
reasons that they are'the cheapest produced, easiest made, neatest and 
strongest shape that the flutes could be made, so as to meet at once all the 
requirements demanded by the drawing, so as to be readily mitered and 
fitted to the column X of Rig. 136. The concentric circles give a plan 
view of the sections of the flutes. The profile G to H shows the outline of 
the horizontal cornice No. 6 of Fig. 101, while the profile from point R to 
S shows the outline of the line of contact that the raking cornice of the 
gable has where it joins the turret. These explanations show the student 
fullv where the ends of the flutes end or miter to the two cornices on the 

4 / 

face of the column X of Fig. 136. The third and last method which I will 
describe to produce the spiral flutes is as follows: By this method it is pro¬ 
posed to produce the flutes out of three separate pieces or parts, namely: 



































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


159 



the top and bottom parts and the vertical face or side-parts. In developing 
the top and bottom spiral stretch-outs the fact must not be lost sight of 
that a template cut-out of a flat piece of metal for a shape as demanded by 
this problem must, after being so cut, be subjected to a certain amount of 
hammering and stretching, more or less, as the case demands, in order that 
the spiral flat piece will conform to the shape that it must have in order to 
fit correctly against the column and at the same time present a horizontal 
plane out to its outer edge from any point of its surface, and this in regular 1 
progressive order, as demanded by the line of contact as described before. 

This in brief is the problem to be solved. By the m ithod describeJ in the 
following, the best possible shape is evolved that can be produced in the 
flat, the only stretching necessary to make the spiral strips fit as demanded 
is around the edges in order to compensate for the loss which the surface 
of the strip sustains in drawing it up to the shipe as shown in Fig. 186. 
All laps and allowances for joints are extra and will have to be allowed for 
when the pieces are.gotten oat for the spirals. The first step to take is to 
make the line B to 0 equal to one-half of the circumference of the column 
X; connect point G as shown by dotted line to point A wh ch is where the 
ine of contact occurs that the spiral has with the column in one-balf 
revolution of it around the column. Make the distance from point C to 
point n equal to one-half diameter of the column X. Erect the line n 
from point n at right-angles to line 0 B. At the point at which the line n 
cuts the line 0 to A is the end of the radius by which the inner curve of 
the required pattern for the spirals is cut, using C as center. The circular 
line o being the inner line, it remains only to draw an outer Line, corres* 



















































ponding in position to a distance away from line o equal to the width that 
the required spiral is to have; this has been done and the line k is the re¬ 
sult. In the practical application of this rule as to the length of the dif¬ 
ferent flutes required for the turrets, the student must make them as re 
quired according to the various measurements to fit each particular one for 
itself. Fit the miters to the cornices by trimming the faces of the differ¬ 
ent parts, as required in each instance. Each flute has a top and bottom 
spiral face; the vertical face is merely a flat straight strip equal in width to 
the vertical height of the drawing for the same at any point of its face. 
The manner of fastening the flutes together is best accomplished by first 
soldering the spiral pieces to the column and then soldering the cap or 
outer face to the burred edges of the spiral. In this way a good job can 
be done. It would also be well for the workman, before he attempts to 
solder the spiral strips to the column, to mark the line of contact on the 
same in order that the mark will serve as a guide so that the strips will be 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL' 









































CORNICE WORE MANUAL 


161 


Correctly placed when soldered fast to the face of the column. If these 
lines of contact have not been marked on the metal before the columns 
have been formed to shape, and which is more than probable that they 
would not have been in a case like these turrets, I would advise to draw 
the triangle C B A, connected by the hypothenuse A to C (which latter lin 
is the line of contact for the upper edge of the spiral flute Y) out on paper 
Also make similar angles for the other lines of contact, that is, if those 

* i 

already made will not answer for the purpose of being used over again in a 
new position. If one of the foregoing described angles is cut out and the 
points A and B fixed correspondingly against the column X at points A 
and B, then if the triangular piece is wrapped around the column so that 
point C of it comes to point B of the column, a line drawn to the outline 
traced by the bypothebuse of the triangle against the face of the vertical 
cylindrical column X of the turret is the result as shown by the drawings 
of Fig. 136. This concludes ihn complete exposition of all the patterns, 
methods and tools used to produce a complete turret as shown by the Fig. 
lOi. 

Having disposed of and given a description of the entire details of all 
gable as well as the horizontal cornices, and a thorough exposition of the 
methods by which the patterns are developed for the pillars or turrets as 
shown by the Fig. 101, Chapter XXII, I will next give a detailed exposition 

of the remaining members of the cornices that have not as yet been de 
scribed and accorded detailed treatment. 

The two paneled end copings I will describe first. A front view of 
Ihese and also of their relative positions, together with the other members 
which I will describe, are all shown by front elevation This view shows 



V" <A ’ 1 '' -Scal-0 1 to t/u. ShtL 


Fio 137 


the front e levations of, first the end copings, the trusses or the head 
blocks, then the crown or cre3t cornice and surmounting it the 1" square 
cresting; the two finials and the front of the dormer window are shown to 
the scale of to the foot. 

In order to render the laying out of the copings easier, and 
to a more adaptable scale for ready work. I have drawn the profile 
Fig. 137 to the scale of 1" to the foot. This is a'so the scale 
that Figs, 95 and 9G, of Chapter XIX are drawn to, which give a 







162 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 



partial front and side elevation of the right hand end coping as 

\ 

shown by the front elevation of the cornice and of which Fig. 137 
is the profile. The first step to take to obtain all the necessary data for 
the laying out of the patterns for these copings is as follows: First meas 
ureup the girt or stretch-out. This has been done and is shown in Fig. 137 
to be 44". Then the next measure to be ascertained is the entire length 
of the coping. This is 9' 5" long over all; that is, if the lower part of the 
bead block is to be incorporated with the coping; or, in other words, if the 
upper end of the coping is to serve as the lower section of the head block, 
the joining together of this member with the coping proper occurring at the 
line shown by the dotted line 2 to 2 of Fig. 90 of Chapter XIX, the fore¬ 
going would be one way of planning out and measuring up this member. 
Another, and in my estimation a preferable way, would be to make the co¬ 
ping m two sections, one section 8' long, or as long as the material will 
allow, and the other sections top or upper end of the coping could be made 
as shown by Fig. 138. This figure shows the base of a trus3 or head block 
and also the upper end of the coping all made in one section. This method 
I regard as the simplest, and resulting in the most sub3tmtial form for a 
coping for the desired end sought in this case, therefore I have made use 
of it to the exclusion of any other method that would perhaps serve to the 
same end, but would not be as easily made or be of such simple construc¬ 
tion as the method described and made use of for these members. Another 
point, by this method both the cop ngs can be made each out of one sheet 
of 24" by 96" iron so that for these members there need be absolutely no 
waste of iron if the mtthods are used to lay them out as are shown and ex¬ 
plained in the following: 

Fig. 137 shows the cross-section of the panels to be J" high from the 
face of the coping and also that the inclined flat parts of the panels are 3J 
wide. The extreme length of the entire panels over all is 7' long, as deduc-. 
tions from the various elevations show. 






Cornice work manual i#8 



of cutting the shapes desired is different, the final result when the shapes are 



J lb Ju Fqoi 

Fig 137 


formed up is the same. I will only show two methods for these members, 
although there are several other combinations to cut these patterns that 
could be used and which would all lead to the same result. I regard these 
as ample for all reasonable requirements to cover this case. Method num¬ 
ber one: square a sheet of iron 24"by 96"; then draw lines at right-angles 





















































































164 CORNICE WORK MANUAL 



by lines a, a', and b, b' of Fig. 139. This leaves 7' of space between these 
line 3 so drawn, which is also the full length of the raised panels on the 
copings. Next, divide and spice the sheet into as many parts as the profile, 
Fig. 137, demands for the stretch-out of the copings; that is, across. 
This has been done in Fig. 139 and the sheet is shown to be divided into 
nine parallel parts, each one of the correct width as demanded according 
to the position it has or fills in the stretch-out of a profile such as Fig. 
137 is. Ig will be observed that the two center spaces, exch one of which 
is 3|" wide, are divided by line x, x, or the highest point that the panel 
has when formed up to shape. This dividing* line is as a mat er of course 
1\" shorter than the panel at the base or where the panel joins the coping, 




































































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


165 



as between the points o and n of Fig. 139. Next, draw oat tne triangular 
spaces S and S'; using the line x, x' as center line, mike the distance from 
O' the center point of the triangle S to point t on line x to x, equal to the 
slant of ihe panel, which is 3f ". Then the line k, t to R of the triangle 
S is to be equal in length to the distance between points 1 and 2 of the 
profile, Fig. 137. Add to this, as shown ia tbe drawing, the J" strip and 
then the remainder of the full she^t up topoiut x\ Next, draw Jine 1, 2, 
3 to 4 at right-angles to line x, x'; space off the required material between 
the lines 1 to 4, as shown between thehe points in Fi^. 
139, an I as demanded by ihe profile, Fig. 137. Next. cut the 
bottom section B on line 1 to 2, then up J" to point x K, then to 
C', next to R down f " to point 3 and then to point 4. This would com¬ 
plete the section B of the c >ping as far as the cutting out p trt by this 
method i» concerned, proviling that the lap3 as sh >wn were a'l to be left 
on the main piece ot the stretch out. These l ips may be left as wide as 
the f" space and also what is left from tbe difference between the slant 
deck of the panel and the straight horizontal covering of the top of the copings; 
that is, if the covering is laid out in the flat. Just how to arrange for the 
Japs is so clearly shown in the draw ng for both ends in this case th it further 
description is unnecessary. The top end can be cut on line b c n to 
b, so that all the laps are to be allowed for this end on the top section. 



Fi$ 140. 

The laps are all shown in this figure to lay under instead of over the lower 
section. I have shown them this way as some cornice men prefer to solder 







































166 CORNICE WORK MANUAL 

the laps thus, claiming that they can soak them better with solder when 
work is in position on a building. But as these members can, by the 
method described, be finished wholly in the shop, this way of lapping the 
joints would not be of any material gain over any other plan. If the 
student cares to reverse the order in which the laps are shown he is at 
liberty to do so. Fig. 140 shows the profile to which the two end sections 
are to be bent and broke when forming them to shape as demanded for 
their proper fitting together with the main part of the stretch-out, which is 
to be formed to 3hape in sections, as the Fig. 137 shows. The foregoing 
is one way to lay out the paneled copings. Fig. 141 illustrates another • 
method for the same purpose. This figure is drawn to the scale of 2" to 



Fij.m. 

the foot. From a to b shows the elevation or profile; the plan view is also 
shown above line c to d for part of the lower end of the paneled part of the 
right-hand end wall coping of the building as shown by Fig. 89. By using 
the method shown by Fig. 141 the entire paneled coping can be made out 
of one solid piece of iron, it being only necessary to cut out the required 
strips as shown by Fij. 141 so as to allow the iroi to be readily formed to 
the shape demanded by the profile of the same figure. The preliminary 








































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


167 


steps for this stretch-out are the same as described for the method shown 
by Fig. 139 as far as the division of the sheet for the various surfaces pre¬ 
sented by the coping in the profile is concerned. The foregoing applies to 
the entire coping, panel, etc., up to the line c a of both ends of the cop¬ 
ings. Beyond this line toward the ends is where the really difficult part of 
the patterns to be laid out in this problem will be found. In the elevatiou 
each surface of the coping presented is numbered and correspondingly 
numbered in the stretch-out. The parts 1, 2 and 9 may be drawn out fully 
the whole length of the sheets, as these parts of the profile are all bent only 
one way; that is, lengthways, the only point to be determined for them, is 
the length that they should have down or up from line c d, as the case 
may be. This is shown by the lines e f and s t. Then also the distance 
down from line c d to the dotted line m n can be made equal in length for 
all the sections numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 8 and 9, but not for the sections 5 
and G of the stretch-out, Fig. 141. 

Connect the points 0 and O' of sections 5 and 6 with the center point 
X, as shown by the dotted line. Next make line X to h equal in length to 
the slant of the panel; connect point h with point 0 of section 5. The 
line X to h is at right-angles to the line h to 0. Continue the line X, h 
down to point] k, making from point h to point k equal in length to the 
distance that the profile shows for the height that the panel is raised up 
from the bed of the coping, namely, J", and also to this add the length 
between line m and e. This has been done. Now connect point K with 
point y, and this point again with point 0. Next connect the triangle 
shown p, y and the 2\" base to the position it has, as shown. Then con¬ 
nect the points f and u of section 3, and from point u connect to point 0, 
thus completing the lower end of the section 4. A similar operation has 
to be done for the lines of the sections 6, 7 and 8 on the other side of the 
center line of the panel. All the foregoing described lines and how they 
are to be disposed of in the drawing is so plainly shown in Fig. 141 that it 

is needless to give a further description, as they can be readily understood 
without it. To cut the waste material from this stretch-out so as to allow 
its proper forming up to shape as demanded, proceed as follows: Cut from 
point e to f, then to u and to 0. If these joints were to be butted together 
the course of (he cutting could be continued from point 0 to r to w, from 
w to K, and from K to center point X. This would ^complete one-half or 
one side of the coping. But it is not at all probable that a job of this de¬ 
scription would be put together with the joints butted. They would proba¬ 
bly be lapped, which is the proper and better way, so provision must be 
made for the required laps. Material for the laps as shown is to be left 
when cutting the patterns. 


163 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


When forming up a piece of work such as this coping presents, if laid 
out as in Fig. 141, it would be best to break 'up the side shape first to the 
profile as demanded the coping should have when finished. After this is 
done the end pieces would have to be flattened and straightened out again 
and then formed to the required shape that they should have as demanded 
for them by the plan and profile of Fig. 141. The method as described 
in the foregoing is one by which the entire lower 8" lengths of the copings 
can be made out of a single piece. Which of the two methods as (described 
and shown by Figs. 139 and 141 is the better I leave the student to decide 
for himself. I have used both methods in actual practice and have found 
both ways to have some good points which would particularly recommend 
one or the other for some particular occasion. It is well’to be able to have 
either method at one’s command when occasion requires the use of such 
knowledge. 

The next members of this cornice which I will describe in detail are 
the head blocks. Fig. 95 shows a full front elevation of one of these, while 
Fig. 96 shows a side view. Both figures are drawn to the scale of 1" to 
the foot. As it would not be advisable to make such a structure as one of 
these head blocks out of large single pieces of material for the simple rea¬ 
son that such a method would be too wasteful, as the iron could not be 
cut to advantage, to meet this case the following order and methods of as¬ 
sembling and proportioning the various parts are suggested and recom¬ 
mended. A neat and well made piece of work is. the result, if the direc¬ 



tions as given are followed for the construction of the head blooks under 
consideration. The first section which will be given in detail is the base 
part of one of the head blocks. Fig. 188 shows the side elevations. 






CORNICE WORK MANUAL 169 

The outline bounding points A to F show outer part of right hand end 
block, and also the continuation of the side covering of the end wall above 
the coping as described before. For the inner part that fits against the 
crown or deck cornice the line H to K shows the inner boundary. As it is 
intended that these side pieces are to have the front part of the base sol¬ 
dered and laid up against them, suitable laps and edges must be provided for 
this purpose. This has been done as shown on the outline A to C of Fig. 
138. The J"x9|-" long patt as shown by the strip X X is added at the top 
above line A to B to provide for a suitable lap up into the mrin part of the 
head block to fasten the same to the base, and an equally wide but 12" 
long strip is also added to the stretch-out for the front of the base as shown 
by Fig. 142. As the head blocks and base are to show a 12" front the 
stretch-out has been figured at that measurement for width; the length is 
26", as demanded by the outline A to C of Fig. 138. All the bends are 
shown on the stretch-out, Fig. 142, by the lines 2 to 11; these corresponding 




Fig 14&. 

to all the various bands of the profile A to C of Fig. 138. Cut the two 
side profiles as directed and also the front; form thi* latter piece to shape 
and solder the three pieces together as demanded by the drawings. This 
finishes the base part of a head block ready to have the upper sections 
joined to it, which I will next describe. Fig. 143 shows the stretch-out of 
the back and the two sides of a block. The back is made 12" high and 

12" wide; at the bottom of the same an allowance has been made, shown 
by the f" strip X, X, for a flange to be laid off at right-angles to the verti¬ 
cal side of the block. The same amount for (dges has also been allowed 



















170 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 



for the inner side at its bottom edge, as well as at the top of all the three 
parts of this stretch-out; the top edge is to be turned inward while the two 
bottom edges are to be turned outward from the body of the truss or head 
block. The two ornamental rectangular tracings of lines shown by 1 and 





<V 

j Prof’tit. 

Vc 

Scale 1"to lie Foo t 



from b to c, to be made out of one piece. A complete stretch out of the 
diamond-faced cap is shown by B of Fig. 144. This part when formed up 
to shape will fit over the edge S of the front frame and thus complete the 
two on each one of the sides is to be traced or creased a design to pro¬ 
duce the effect as shown by the lines on the finished head blocks. The 
two parts shown by the projections 3 and 4 at each end of the stretch-out 
are here introduced in case it should be intended to mak*e two strips, shaped 



































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


171 


the same as strips 3 and 4, thus forming the outer frame of the head block, 
or, to be more explicit, this woul i finish the outer part of the front as 
shown by the profile from a to b, Fjg 144. This leaves an edge for the cap 
part, or a shape as demanded by the profile of Fig. 144. C of Fig. 144 shows 
still another method to make the front pirt of the head block. This is ac¬ 
complished by making the front out of four pieces. From a to b has to be 
made so as to correspond to the profile of the front. Each bend and break 
must be marked in its correct relative position; then each division must be 
marked and cut to the correct miter so that the pieces when b.-ht up to 
shape will fit together perfectly. All this has been done for the stretch-out 
C of Fig. 144 according to the data deduced from the front elevation, Fid. 
95, and the profile of Fig. 144. After the front, back and two sides of the 
head block have been laid out according to whatever method is deter¬ 
mine, cut the parts out and form them to shape as demanded by the 
profile of each respective part; then solder the parts together and join this 
to the base part of the head blocks before described. Fig. 145 shows the 



profile of the half of the front and also the side of a very desirably-shaped 
top to put on the block. To cut the template for a top which is to be 
raised to the required shape as demanded by the profile shown, it must have 
the sides curved outward, as shown in Fig. 145. How much to curve the 
edges outward from a straight edge is determined by measuring the swell 
of the profile, or the difference between the two distances, which deter¬ 
mines the amount of swell or curve to bo given to the template at its 
edges, as shown by Fig. 145 for the top of the head-block. After the top 
is cut out, raised and fitted, it may be fastened permanently to its position 
on the top end of the sides. 

Fig. 14G shows the tapering support for the ball surmounting the 
head-block; the numerals 1 to 4 give the outline and the stretch-out is 
shown by points 2, 4, 5 and 6 . As will be seen, the stretch-out has been 












172 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 





developed by the usual method used to lay out the frustum of. a cone; X is 
center point for both the elevation as well as the stretch-out of this part. 
Fig. 147 shows the elevations and also the two disks which are used for 


P,^,le% C^3 



these head-blocks. The larger one is placed on the top of the head-block 
and the tapering section described and shown by Fig.-146 is fastened to 
this, while the smaller disk is placed between the same section and the ball 
at the extreme top of the head-blocks. The positions of these disks just 
described, and also the tapering conical-shaped support, as well as all the 
other details of the pieces which constitute the make-up of these head 
blocks, are fully shown in Figs. 95 and 96. These two figures also show 
the position in which the cresting post is placed against the inside of the 
head-blocks. As these view§ denote, the cresting is made 1" square. 

Fig. 95 shows that there are two lines of horizontal cresting supported 
by square upright posts 18" apart from center to center. A of Fig. 148 shows 



□ 

c 


Fig 


















GORNICE WORK MANUAL 178 

how the full or solid posts are laid out in the flat before the posts are bent up 
to shape; C shows how the finished rail looks in section; B, shows the half 
posts, one of which is given in Fig. 95 soldered up against the head-block. 
Each one of the upright posts is surmounted by a 1£" ball. In making the 



square bars for the cresting make them as long as possible and have 
as few joints as convenient. This saves time in the making and also se¬ 
cures a neater job, being stiffer and firmer in every respect than if short 
bars and consequently many more joints are to be fitted together. The deck 
cornice, a profile of which is shown by line H to K of Fig. 138, measures 
18" wide for girt, and is 26' 3" long. This molding can be made in two sec¬ 
tions as to length, tho joints occurring where the apex of the gable cuts 
into the front of the deck cornice. For this member 2G in. wide sheets 
may be made use of, the sheets being split in two lengthways. 

The next members of the designs which I will discuss, are 











































































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


174 

the two finials of both the gable and the dormer window e. Fig. 97 shows 




a full front view of the gible finial, while Fig. 98 shows a side v,. w of 
the same; boih views are drawn to the scale of J in. to the foot. Fig. 
149 shows by B the stretch-out of one-half of the front or rear elevation of 
the fiuial for the main gable. The strip X X is intended to be bent out¬ 
ward and is to be used for a flange to fasten the finial down solid to the 
roof by long screws, etc. The part Sis half of the quarter-piece which folds 
over and closes the square opening at the top of section B of the finial. 

The part A is the stretch-out of the strip demanded for one of the ends of 
this finial shown by the side view Fig. 98. All the numbers marked on 
the same correspond to the front B of the same figure. The dotted lines 
show the lap to be allowed for these parts. When cutting out the fron~ 
part for this finial, of which part B of Fig. 149 is just one-half, or one 
side only, of the front, continue the cut along the line from point 1 to a, 
then gradually bend the part from point 6 to point a at the end of the cut 
outward, causing it to assume the shape of a spiral scroll. Then, when 
cutting out the piece A for the side, the part S, as shown from point G to 
the end at S, can be formed to the curve G to a. The raw edge of the flat 
front part B is to be soldered to this outward guiding part S, causing the 
part B to assume the spiral curve that is demanded for it by Fig. 98 for 

















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


175 





these parts of the finial when the parts are finally soldered together. The 
part S, which is to be added on the strip used on the other end of the 
finial, must be the reverse of that shown on the strip A of Fig. 149 
The parts described for the finial so far can now be put together, if it is so 
desired. 

Fig. 150 shows the development of the three tapering sections de 

manded for the staff and vane for the finial. These three sections are to 
be cut out, then formed to shape and their seams fastened -either soldered 























































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 



or riveted, as desirable. Fig. 151 shows the manner in which to make the 
swivel joint for the vane. The entire pipe part can be made of f in. pipe. 
Make the section a long enough to fit in a socket soldered on the cap S of 
section B bf Fig 149, and place it so that when the section A of Fig. 150 
is soldered to this part the swivel joint will have ample room and free play 
to turn easily, and not interfere with the tapering section a of Fig. 150, 
which fits over the pipe a of Fig. 151 when the same is placed in position. 




The foregoing points'being provided for, the pipe a can be permanently 
fastened to the section A of Fig. 150, which has previously been soldered 
to the base of the finial. The arrow vane, as shown in Fig. 151, consists 
of two pieces of J in. pipe, which are screwed into the ends of the cross 
X. Then fastened so that they cannot become loose or disarranged from 
the fixed position they are constantly to have, so that they always present 
their flat sides to the view in a vertical position. How to construct and 
fasten the spear head and also the feather end of the vane to the two 
artns or pieces of piping shown by C and D in Fig. 151 has been shown 
and explained in these articles on former occasions and need not be gone 
over again. It will be observed that the sleeve nut n on pipe A is fas¬ 
tened permanently into position, then the cross X above this, which has 






















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


been enlarged so that it turns easily around the section of pipe above the 
sleeve, rests on sleeve n and cannot sink down any lower, As shown in 
Fig. 97 a ball is fitted around the cross hiding it from-view when the 
finial is complete. The two sections and the two balls, as shown in view 
Fig. 97, can now he formed and put together, and to the ball which is 
fitted around the swivel cross of the arrow vane. The section of pip 3 
which shows above the cross X is to be long enough to fit up into the tap¬ 
ering section b to the second ball, thus rendering it impossible for the 
heavy vane and the two lighter tapering sections to lift up or off no matter 
how strong the wind may blow. By the arrangement as described in the 
foregoing the two small sections by reason of their being fastened to the 
cross or swivel joint turn along with the arrow vane every time it turns, 
but as these sections always present a vertical view and always have the 





Fiji 152. 

















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


178 

same position, this does not alter the general appearance of the finial in 
the least as far as the two sections above the arrow vane are concerned, no 
matter which way the vane itself may be tamed. 

The ornamental ball and star, as well as the other ornament shown by 

the front view, Fig. 97," can either be made to suit the design by hammer¬ 
ing them up by hand or they can be selected from among the many styles 
of stamped ornaments on the market. Designs that come very near to the 
drawings shown can be had from almost any manufacturer in this line 
The foregoing gives in brief the complete method of constructing a finial 
such as the designs, Figs. 97 and 98, call for and cover this case fully. Fig. 
152 gives the complete drawing for all the parts of the finial shown by Fig. 
99 on the dormer; a side view is also shown of the same by Fig. 100. The 
various parts as shown by Fig. 152 are developed as follows: First draw 
out the front and back parts of the base of the finial as shown by D of Fig. 
152; allow for laps as shown by the dotted lines, and also for the flanges 
X X on both the front as weil as the rear piece; then measure up and«cut 
out the end or narrow strips, one of which is shown by the section E. 
Two of these are needed. Then get out the tapering sections 1 and 2, The 
stretch-out of each one of these is shown by A and B. Form these parts to 
shape as well as all the rest of the parts of the entire finial, then assemble 
them in their correct positions to each other and solder and fasten them 
permanently together, making the finial ready to be put in its final position 
on the dormer roof. The members next in order to describe, and being 
the nearest and in a measure the connecting links between those members 
already described, are the ridge crestings of both the main gable and the 

dormer window. Fig. 95 shows a cross-section of the main cresting, 
while in Fig. 96 is shown a side elevation of the cresting where it connects 
with the deck cornice. 

From the measurements deducted from these two views the stretch¬ 
out as shown by the accompanying Fig. 153 has been drawn. Only one- 
half of the-first and last upward curving part onto which the 4" bales are 
fastened that surmount the cresting is shown. The center line shows where 
the drawing for each of these parts ends. The part A is that of one side 
of the cresting which joins the finial, while the part B shows where the 
cresting fits and joins to the deck cornice. The stretch-out from a to b gives 
the entire length that the outline of the profile' for the cresting has as 
shown by Fig. 95. I did not deem it necessary to show the full length of 
the cresting horizontally when laying out the full patterns; the student can 
add the parts omitted himself. The width of the strip which is to be 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


17 $ 



soldered on the top of the cresting, and which holds the two sides apart at 
their proper distance, is to be as is shown in Fig. 95 immediately under 
the 4" ball shown in that view. In putting this cresting together have the two 
sides formed correctly to profile, then let the strip lap over the sides about 
an eighth of an inch; solder the same fast, then fasten the three balls in 
their proper position as demanded for this design as shown in this case. 
Fig. 154 shows the stretch-out of the dormer window cresting. All the 
directions as given for the larger gabla cresting can also be applied to this 
case, suiting the measurements for this stretch-out as the Figs. 99 and 100 
demand. The end a of Fig. 154 shows where the cresting fits to the fiuial, 
while the end b shows where it lays up against the attic roof with the 
flange c. Thi§ cresting differs somewhat in its dimensions, but in every 
other respect is similar to the one shown in Fig. 158, and is to be treated 
in its construction in all its parts by similar methods as have been de¬ 
scribed for the cresting, Fig. 153. 

The profile of one side of the cresting, also placed in its proper relative 
position, the profile of the deck cornice shows how the proper outline of 
the stretch-out of Fig. 158 is obtained. First the profile a of the cresting is 
divided into as many parls as the student wishes, then from points thus 
determined extend lines to the profile of the cornice against which the 
cresting miters. Then draw .a line any distance away from the profile b, 
as the line d, e. has been drawn. When the stretch-out of the cresting is 
laid out draw a line corresponding to the line d, e on the,stretch-out, and 

























180 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 



transpose the distances found on the lines 1 to 12 of the profiles to those 
lines that correspond to them and are drawn on the stretch-out. The dis 
tances so found and established determine the outline or the position that 
the miter line has, which is to be cut out on the sides of the cresting as 



shown in Fig. 153. This completes the description that is needed for this 
member, so that the student can readily lay out all the parts that enter 
into the construction of the two styles of crestings shown in Figs. 153 and 
154. 


























































































Cornice work manual ibi 

The last member of the design, Fig. 89, that now remains to be de¬ 
scribed and all its parts laid out and explained, is the dormer window shown 
by Fig. 99 for front view, and by Fig. 100, the side view. Fig. 155 gives, 
a working drawing for the entire front and also for the sides of the dormer 
window. The drawings that this figure gives do not show the details of 
the cornice for the dormer but merely gives the correct position that these 
members have toward the others as far as necessary, so that the parts di¬ 
rectly adjoining or which are a part of the members of the cornice on the 
dormer window can be laid out. As is seen by the drawings the dormer 
is entirely flat with the exception of the projection at the profile of the oval 
window and the square bead or edge X, X, and also the spiral scroll or 
volute D shows. The distance and shape that this last-mentioned member 
of the front has outward from the face of the dormer is shown by B of the 
same figure. The shape that the sides have is shown by the right-angled 
triangular shape 1, 2 and 3. These pieces are to be cut out to this shape, 
and are to have sufficient material allowed at the edge 1 to 3 to lay against 
the attic roof. This edge is shown in the drawing by the strip 1' to 1". 

It is there shown to be 2" wide, but may be made to a greater width if the 
student so desires; then the top edge 1 to 2 can be made so that it will 
hook.on to the lower edge of the horizontal cornice, when these members 
are plaoed in position the joint thus made can be laid over or double-seamed 
together. The dotted line S to T shows the position which the sides have 
in relation to the other parts of the dormer. If the workman should deter¬ 
mine to have the sides and also the part which is directly behind the 
scroll D embracing all the space shown outside the dotted line S to T all 
out of one piece he can do so. These two parts could easily be made out 
of one piece of iron for this case, particularly as the entire width of both 
does not exceed 26". If so made the two parts could be bent at right- 
angles to each other at or on the line S to T. Of course there would have 
to be two pieces made as described in the foregoing, one for each side of 
the dormer, if this method were used to attain the result aimed at. Some 
cutters would make the sides separate from the back coverings of the scrolls, 
having the joints between the parts come in the corner of S to T. . Either 
way may be taken to do this part of the dormer covering as suits the stu¬ 
dent. If he should decide to adopt the last-described method he will have 
to get out four separate pieces for these parts, two for the sides and two for 
the back parts of the scrolls. 

To lay out the front of the dormer proceed as follows: Draw a com¬ 
plete outline of the front, bounded on the top by the line m n, which is 
the lower end of the gable cornice. A suitable lap or enough material is to 


132 CORNICE WORK MANUAL 

be allowed in addition to make a connection between the gable cornice and 
the flat front. It is presumed that the student is aware that Fig. 155 is 
only one-half of the front and in the directions given it is meant that the 
front extends up to a point, although this is not shown m the figure, but 
for this point Fig. 99 is lo be referred to, which gives a mdre complete 
front view of the dormer than Fig. 155. I did not think it necessary to 
give the full view in Fig. 155, but only the more important details. The 


















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


183 


flat front is to be bounded on the sides by the line from X X to point 
4 , then from point 4 continue the bottom line to point 3. For the other 
side of the front the directions apply the same as for the side described, only 
duplicated to the reverse in all its features from the left-hand side as shown 
by Fig. 155. After having made the foregoing drawings, or at least deter¬ 
mined on the boundaries of the outline demanded for this front, the next 
question will be, how to cover the same—whether it would be best to use 
two 26" wide sheets of iron with a seam in the middle of the front and 
the outside edge of each sheet cut to conform to the shape as shown by 
lines m m and X X, to point W to W, then continue around curve Y to 
point 4, then to point 3 or the center joint of the two sheets. 

Then if the foregoing method is followed the spiral section or volute 
can be made separate and can very handily be put on to the front after the 
center sheets are put on the same. The oval opening for the window is to 
becutoutof the sheet to the measurements demanded by the drawing; a 
half-inch edge is to be allowed which can be turned up and outward from 

the flat front and on which the metal window frame is to fit over. In Fig. 
155 is shown one-half front elevation of this oval window; then A shows 
the profile or section at A', A". 

The window frame is shown by sectional view of the frame by F. This 
section shows how to arrange the different members that compose the 
frame so that each part fits nicely one over the other. The frame as 
shown by this method is composed of three parts. To lay out these parts, 
cut three straight strips, equal in length to the entire circumference that 
each has as shown by the front view in Fig. 155; then make each as wide 
as demanded for it by the profile F. This dotie bend all three strips as 
shown by profile F, bub do not make the small bends which connect the 
pieces together. After the three sections 1, 2 and 3 of the window frames 
have been made as far as directed, take each one separately and stretch 
the curves for the top or outside surfaces by hammering them with a 
stretching hammer until they are shaped and conform to the curves as de¬ 
manded that each one should have, as shown by the front view of tho win¬ 
dow in Fig. 155. 

After the three sections have been shaped as wanted, the small up¬ 
ward or outward edges may be turned on sections 1 and 2. No. 3 
has a small edge turned inward or toward the flat front; this edge serves to 
fasten the small 1" strip at its outer edge around the entire outer edge of 
the window-frame, while the inner edge of the 1" strip is fastened over the 
i" edge which is turned out on the flat front of the dormer. After the 


184 cornice: work manual 

three sections have been made ready, as far as described in the foregoing, 
they may then be joined and soldered together so that when they are com¬ 
pleted they will assume the shape as the profile A shows for profile and 
as the oval curves show for front view. In getting out the volute-shaped 
scrolls, cut out pieces of iron as the curve from points U to 4, X and W 
from W to U. Then when the pieces are to be made to the shape, as B 
shows them by a side view, continue the cut on curve W to the center 
point K. The square bead or edge shown from X to the center K can be 
soldered to the same after the projecting point of the scroll has been done. 
How this operation is accomplished has been explained when the descrip¬ 
tion of Fig. 149 was given for a similar problem. 

The ornaments shown on this front, if so desired, can either be raised 
by hand or stamped zinc ornaments can be used as suits the student. In 



the foregoing has been shown how to arrange the sheets of iron if they are 
used with the seams vertically. In the following I will describe how to 
arrange the sheets if they are to be used cross-ways or with the seams and 
laps placed horizontally. If this latter style is to be adopted to construct 
the fiat part of the dormer window front use 30" wide iron. By using this 
width the entire portion of the front that is shown below the double line J 
A' to A" can be cut out of one piece. Then the next section of 30" would 
cover the front by allowing l"lap a line J A' A," up to the dotted line n 
















CORNICE WORK xWANUAL 


185 



to R; the rest of the front could be covered by a piece of the size that it re¬ 
quires or else this piece could be fastened to the second section and both 
these two last pieces could be put up in one. All the other items, such as 
fitting the oval window and the scroll part of the volute D, as well as the 
manner of constructing them, and also the directions for the ornaments 
used on this dormer window, are precisely the same for the last style of 
arranging the sheets for the front as they are for the first described way of 
putting them up. I have seen jobs of this kind done both ways. As a 
matter of preference I regard the first-described method as the easiest and 
also the way that would cut the least iron to waste in this case. I have 
given both ways—the student has his choice. 

Fig. 15G shows by 1, 2, 3 and 4 some methods of laying out the gable 
as well as the horizontal cornice of the dormer window. By 1 of Fig. 156 


























































186 CORNICE WORK MANUAL 

is shown how sometimes the profile of a raking cornice by using the profile 
of the horizontal cornice mitering to the same can be made to assume a 
shape that is entirely different from that which it was originally intended to 
be. This may occur by using the wrong profile, or if an architect should 
not take the pains to furnish what would be the correct profile in a case as 
presented by 1 of Fjg. 156; that is, if the gable cornice profile was to be 
arbitrary as the same is given by the line A to B of part 1 in Fig. 156 and the 
horizontal cornice as shown should miter to the gable cornice in such a 
form that the miter line would be shown by a straight line in a plan view 
of the two numbers as these cornices would show if joined to each other 
as the foregoing implies. As mentioned in the foregoing, if an architect 
were not as careful as he ought to be fora case of this kind and made the 
drawing for the horizontal cornice as shown by the profile C to D, without 
any care whether the same were correct for a square miter joint or not, and 
if the cornice man, instead of looking up this point as he ought to, proceed¬ 
ed at once and took his profile to start with from the incorrect outline, C to 
D, and then laid out the plan for the more conspicuous member, namely, 
the raking gable member, this would often cause the same to assume an 
exaggerated and disproportionate outline, which is the case in this in¬ 
stance, as shown by 3 and 4 of Fig. 156, 3 being the profile of the horizon¬ 
tal member, while from this is deducted and derived the disproportionate 
and incorrect profile of the raking gable cornice, as this figure presen ts by 
the profile 4 of Fig. 156. 

As has been stated in these articles, in order to attain a perfect miter 
line between two members of a cornice mitering to each other at right 
angles, but the two members having a different width or different profiles 
from each other, one or the other member must be adapted so that it con¬ 
forms to the outline which the member has at the miter line to which it is 
to join. The practical demonstration of a problem of this class is shown 
by Figs. 100 and 110 in Chapter XXI, and is therein fully described and 
explained. As a matter of fact the two members as shown, although their 
profiles C to D and A to B are in their present outline unsuited to 
other to miter them together, so that a perfectly straight plane would show 
a perfect union or joint between the two sections, the fact remains 
that a union between the two sections could be accomplished and a 
miter joint made between the two parts, but the miter line would not fol¬ 
low a straight line but would, if such a joint were made, adapt itself and 
follow all the in and out curves which would occur by reason of the various 
bends of one or the other section having to be followed by one section in 
Older to establish a junction between the two in one continuous 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 187 

joint from top to bottom of the members. The foregoing gives the reasons 
why two dissimilar moldings which have different outlines from each other 
cannot miter together at right angles, or at any other angle for that 
matter, and have the miter line straight or in one plane vertically as in 
this case, unless the profile of one or the other of the sections is first 
altered so as to be suitable and in the proper shape. 

Another point that the student will do well to remember and act. upon 
is, that he should not make his drawings from the original for some mem¬ 
bers where accuracy and detail are of importance to too small a scale, but 
rather in his studies should draw them out to the full size whenever 
practicable. The part 1 and 2 of Fig. 156 is an example of what is meant 
by the foregoing. It will be noticed that in a drawing of this kind the 
least little slip of a pencil, or even the width of a line, makes a very ma¬ 
terial difference in the measurement of the patterns drawn to so small a 
scale. I may add that it would be almost impossible to get the correct out¬ 
line of a miter unless the greatest pains and time-wasting minuteness of 
detail were observed in laying out a stretch-out as 2 of Fig. 156 shows. In 
contrast observe how much easier and more correct, even with less care, one 
can work if a larger scale is used to study out the various problems given. 

Then a large scale drawing of any object always gives more satisfaction to 
the person reading the same; all the details are easier understood; the 
various proportions are more readily grasped by the mind, and a more 
lasting impression produced by a large drawing than if such a small scale 
were made use of as shown by 1 and 2 of Fig. 156. In the foregoing de¬ 
scription of the profile and miter joint of the two members of the dormer 
window cornice, it has been shown to some extent how not to do them and 
the reasons therefor; in the following is shown how to do them so as to 
attain the end sought; namely, a perfect job with the least amount of labor 
consistent with good work. Fig. 157 gives the correct delineation of the 
profiles of both the gable cornice and the horizontal molding. The outline 
of the gable molding 1 of Fig. 157 is shown from point 1 to point 20, and 
has been deducted from the profile 1 of Fig. 99. The entire outline of the 
profile 1 of Fig. 157 is divided into 20 parts in such a manner as is most 
convenient and suited to the various curves which constitute the make-up 
of the profile of this member. The line A B shows the extreme inner 
point of contact that any part of this profile has with the dormer. At right 
angles to line A B, and catting the same at point 20, is the line C D. 
This line is the wall line of the sides of the dormer, and as a consequence 
the innermost point of contact thit the horizontal cornice has with the 
sides of the dormer window. Now the first step to take in laying out the 


188 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


miter joint for the two members for this cornice is to establish the miter 
line for the same in the plan X. To do this proceed as follows: drop the line 
2, 3, D to 2 of profile 1; make the length of the Hue from D to 2 equal to 
the distance that the profile 2 projects from line 0 to D to the point 8 of 
profile 2, thus establishing point 2 at the extreme point of contact that the 



two profiles have in common on the miter line from point 20 to point 2 
after it is drawn and Connects the two points just described. Now as to 
the particulars for the profile 2 of the horizontal cornice, the different 
moldings, curves and points all line in the same planes vertically on ibis 
member as they do in the profile of the gable cornice, the only difference 
being that the points as shown have different positions horizontally in the 
horizontal molding than the corresponding points have in the gable 
molding. 

How to determine the position of each point for the horizontal mold¬ 
ing is the next move. This is done by dropping line3 from each point of 
the profile No. 1 to the miter line, then at right angles to the lines 














































CORNtCE WORK MANUAL 18$ 

thus drawn and from where they cut or intersect the miter line drop or 
continue the lines down, each one as far beyond the line A, 20 to B as they 
are in length from the points 1 to 20 of the profile 1 to the line 0, 20 to 1). 
If the lines and distances are all drawn out as directed from the profile 1 to 
the profile 2, the termination of the lines if drawn and made the lengths as 
directed establish the line that the profile has as shown by No. 2 in 
Fig. 157. 

By these /operations the rectangular space which is cut by the 
miter line between points 20 to 2 is established, and also the length that 
each line commencing from the points 1 to 20 has between the lines 20 to 
D for the gable, and between the line 20 to B for the horizontal cornice. 
The outline as shown for No. 3 is merely added to show the outline 
that each one of the cornices has at the point of contact, as cut by the plane 

or miter line vertically. By Fig. 157 is also shown the raking miter line 
of the gable cornice of the dormer window. This is shown by the triangu¬ 
lar space between the points A, to 20, or the normal profile line as shown 
by No. 1, and then the line from point 20 to point E, the extreme or 
highest point that the miter joint between the two sides of the gable cor¬ 
nice has. As w 11 be seen by examining the drawing, that from the points 
1 to 20 of profile No. 1, lines are carried horizon f ally and parallel to 
each other until they cut or intersect the gable miter line from point 20 to 
point E. The disposition ot the lines 1 to 20 as shown in Fig. 157 by the 
profile 1 and the gable miter, makes it possible to lay out the gable miter 
line as well as the miter line between the gable and horizontal cornices by 
using only one set of lines for both purposes, as is shown in Fig. 158. In 
Fig. 157 is also shown tbe angle that the attic roof has; this is shown from 
point 20 to F for the angle-, from the line 20 to C considered as the vertical. 

The first step to take in getting out the stretch-out for the gable cornices 
of the dormer window is to measure up the stretch-out of the profile of 
section 1 of Fig. 157. This measures just 14"; next draw a line at right 
angles to one edge of a 14"-wide sheet of iron far enough away from one 
end to that enough material will be left for the proper laying out of the 
miter joint of the gable. The distance that the lino wcu'id have to be away 
from one end is to be equal to the distance between the line A B and point 
X of section 1 of Fig. 158. If the student desires to lay out the left-hand 
member, as well as horizontal cornices, he should proceed as follows: 
Draw the line A to B across the 14"-wide sheet, then step off on this line all 
the distances marked off on the profile 1 of Fig. 157. All this 
is shown done in Fig. 158. Next transpose all the distances 
from the lines contained between the lines A to 20 and 20 to 


lyu CORNICE WORK MANUAL 

E. of Fig. 157, to the corresponding lines of section 1 of Fig. 158. This 



has been done and at the points on these lines where the distances end, as 
on all the lines from 1 to 20, the miter line X to point 20 has been drawn, 
as shown in this figure, for the miter line of the raking miter of the gable 
cornice. For the other side, the miter line is only a reverse duplicate of 
section 1 of Fig. 158. The data of the outline for the miter joint X at the 
lower end of the gable cornice to the horizontal, and the length that each 
line has to come, where the miter line cuts it in the stretch-out, No. 2 
of 158, are all shown in plan X of Fig. 157, bounded by line 20 to D, and 
the miter line from point 20 to 2. All the distances and lengths of each 
line have been transposed to the stretch-out, number 2 of Fig. 158, each 
one on its proper and respective corresponding line to the plan of Fig. 157. 
The miter joint shows the proper quantity of material cut away for the space 
between the lines 1, 2 and 3 of the lower end of the gable cornice, in order 
to miter correctly to the shape that the horizontal molding has at this 





























































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


191 


point. 

The correct outline that the miter joint has for the end that miters to 
the gable cornice is shown, for the horizontal cornice, by section 1 of Fig. 
159. This stretch-out is only 12" wide for these members. All the par¬ 
allel lines from 1 to 20, as drawn in Fig. 159, are placed and correspond 



2 of Fig. 157. The distance that the miter lin 3 A to B is away from 
line C to D, of Fig. 159, corresponds to the distance or length that each 
similar line has from line 20 to B of Fig. 157, and the miter line from 
point 20 to 2. All the distances have been transposed from these lines to 
the lines 1 to 20 of section 1 of Fig. 159, and the miter line A to B of sec¬ 
tion 2 has been drawn through the points thus found on each line. In 
order to obtain the miter line for the horizontal cornice, where it miters 
against the attic roof, Fig. 160 has been drawn. This figure presents the 
correct pitch of the gable cornice, and also gives the correct angle that the 

horizontal cornice has when it is in its final position on the dormer win¬ 
dow. In connection with this is shown the angle that the pitch of the 
attic roof baa from the vertical. 

































192 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


7 



Draw lines from the points 1 to 20 of this profile, but in a 
horizontal plane, or, in other words, draw lines from the points 
1. to 20 of the profile to the line A B, or pitch line of roof; these 

lines drawn as directed must be at right angles to the vertical line C D. 
Next transpose all the distances contained between the lines A B and C D. 
on each line from X to X of Fig. 160 to the corresponding lines of. section 
2 of Fig 159, thus establishing the miter line for the horizontal cornices 

against the slate loof of the attic, which is shown and drawn out in full in 
section 2 of Fig. 159. All the foregoing miters, connections and joints can 

also be used for the opposite members of the dormer window cornices, onlj 
they will have to be laid out on the stretch-out in the reverse order from 
that shown in Figs. 157 to 160, when the other or reverse members belong¬ 
ing to these cornices are laid out and made. Suitable laps must be allowed 
for the miter joints. These I have not shown in Figs. 158 and 159. The 
student can supply the deficiency to suit his own taste for whatever style 
joints he cares to use for joining these parts together. 

A few remarks and seasonable hints at this stage in regard to how the 















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


103 



various members entering into the make-up of the cornices, copings, finials, 
crestings, etc., as shown by the designs, Fig. 89, are handled to the best 
advantage when put up and placed in position on a job of this kind, may be 
of benefit to the student. In putting up a gable cornice with raking miter 
Joints, etc., as the profile No. 7 of Fig. 93, or as shown to a larger scale by 
Fig. 116, there are several styles or methods whereby this end may be ac¬ 
complished. Fig. 161 shows two styles of wooden lookouts on brackets 
which would be suitable for this case. One style is shown by the solid 
block B, D and F C under the sheathing boards A, while a simpler, style is 
shown by the dotted outline B D and K to R. The profile of the gable 
cornice, as shown in Fig. 161, is the same as shown for it in Fig. 116; 
namely, the normal profile or the profile that the cornice pre¬ 
sents if/ cut at right angles as shown in Fig. 116. All the 
brackets or lookouts are also placed at right angles to the 
gable roof in the figures shown. Fig. 162 shows the cornice 
braced and secured in position by 3-16"xl£" iron lookouts, one of which is 
shown from point 1 to 8 in this figure. As will be observed in this figure, 
there are no wooden bracket3_or_lookouts shown immediately under the 












194 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


sheathing in connection with the iron brace3. At points 2, 4 and 6 are 
shown the places and positions where the braces are bolted to the pro¬ 
file of the cornice; at point 1 of brace, or at its upper end, a hole is left to 
connect a brace of strong wire to it to hold that end in position. In con¬ 
nection with the wire brace the crown molding of the cornice is nailed to 
the sheathing boards, thus securing that edge of the cornice firmly in place. 
It will be noticed that at or behind the foot molding is shown in both Figs. 
161 and 162 a strip of wood nailed fast to the brick wall, into which at 
suitable intervals wooden bricks have been placed for this purpose. 



Fig. 168 gives a side as well as a front elevation of the various wooden 
brackets and also the position of the strip behind the foot molding of the 
gable corifice. Fig. 163 also shows the cornice braced by iron braces from 
a to point 8, where the same project into the brick wall. At points 1 and 2 
the brace is fastened to the cornice with bolts and by an extra spike through 
the profile of the cornice and each brace to the wooden strip X against the 
wall of the building. At the upper end at a the brace is fastened by a wire 
as shown. Thep this figure also shows in connection with the foregoing a 
different style of wooden bracket from the ptyle shown by the solid line 
bracket of Pig. 161. The bracket for this Fig. 163 is shown from points 4 





























CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


195 



to 5 and 6 to 7, being the same as the dotted line bracket in Fig. 161. The 
front view for the bracket in Fig. 163 gives the position that these members 
have from this point of view. The upper end tits up snugly under the pro¬ 
jecting sheathing boards and the lower end rests on the strip against which 
the foot molding of the gable cornice is fastened. The foregoing descrip¬ 
tion gives some very good ways to put the members of these cornices up 
into position on the building. The methods as given for the gable cornice 
can also be applied to the horizontal members, but in a somewhat modified 
form, in short, the profiles and other items, such as the brackets, braces, 
etc., are to be suited to the shapes of the horizontal members as they may 
need to be in order that the same will fit and answer the purpose. What¬ 
ever method the student may use of the several thaf; have been described, 
the main point is to get all the brackets and braces in perfect unison or line 
on the buildiog; this point satisfactory, a good job can be done. In Chap¬ 
ter XV numerous hints and suggestions have been given which if thor¬ 
oughly mastered by the student will be of material aid to him in the plan¬ 
ning and disposition of methods to be used to fasten these cornices into 
position on the building. In regard to the operation of putting the mem¬ 
bers in position, providing all the measurements are ascertained and the 
members are made to these measures correctly, so that no deviation of 



































196 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 



lengths nor in the angles of the mitres as shown exists, one of the best 
methods is to take the two turrets and secnre them in position by projecting 
out from the corner of the brick wall two 2"x4" sticks which must be 
secured firmly to the wall, and to these anchors or braces fasten the turrets. 
Then place the two horizontal members A and B, as shown in Fig. 89, to¬ 
gether with the two return members which miter to the turrets and have 
previously been connected to the long horizontal members A and B, in po¬ 
sition as the design demands. Another plan would be to make the member 
B and the return and abo the turret all in one solid section and put these 
three up into position at once. Wnen the horizontal members are placed in 
position and provided for put up the two gable members; have the joint to 

fasten at the center and also both members to fasten to the turrets. The 
foregoing order of doing this part of the work will be found to give as good 
satisfaction as any other way that the work could be done. After the cor- 






































































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 197 

nices and their gutters have been attended to put the copings in place and 
the head blocks and the deck cresting, at well as tbe deck cornice. The coping 
on the main roof may next be put in place as well as the finial as shown. 
Providing all the angles and measurements are correct the cornices may be 
made in one piece entire; that is, if the same is not too large and unwieldy. 
If it is not possible to obtain all the foregoing required measures and data it 
will be best to either make these members each one separately or in two 
parts having only one joint and that in the center or gable miter. The 
horizontal cornices are to be kept away a suitable distance from the slate 
roof so as to allow for the step or counterflashing tins and slate to be 
properly placed; the slate adjoining the sides of the dormer are also to be 
flashed. The copings shown by Figs. 90 and 96 are to be soldered up tight 
to the finials and the other end for the dormer is to be flashed so that this 
part of the roof will not leak, while the coping on the main roof is to be 
both soldered to the deck-cornice as well as suitably provided with fastenings 
to keep it down tight to the slate of the roof so as to provide this part with 
a proper and secure joint. The cornices of the dormer window are to be 
nailed at the top or crown mold to the sheathing boards, while the foot 
mold can either be nailed or double seamed to the flat part of the front 
and the sides. This depends altogether on which method the workman 
getting out this job decides using. Suitable allowance is to be provided 
for whatever method is made use of to accomplish this desired end. 

The drawing presented in Fig. 161 shows the front elevations of a two 
story building and a tower, which is covered with galvanized iron above 
the main cornice line. Only those parts and features of this drawing have 
been given prominence which are necessary to show clearly and fully 
every part of this design that is connected with this cornice work and with 
the tin and slate roofing. These parts are in this drawing, the front and 
side porches or porticos A and B. As shown for both, they each have a 
lower and also a crown corn ice. The deck of each porch is covered with 
tin for the flat parts, while the curved parts are covered with tin shingles. 
The deck of each porch is surmounted at the outer edge by an ornamental 
railing. The gable of the front porch cornice is capped by a finial as 
shown in the drawing. The main cornice of this building extends from C 
to D; from D it extends around the octagon bay projection as shown, back 
to point E, where it joins the main cornice course of the square tower. 
Above the main cornice is shown a dormer window and four finials. The 
entire square part of the tower above the lowest part of the main cornice 
as shown by the line from E to G is covered with galvanized iron cornice 
work. The section H is the main tower cornice; section I is a paneled 


198 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 

































































































































































































































































































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 199 

•\ 

course with short pilaster columns extending from the top of section H to 
the bottom of the top molding of section I. Above section I is shown the 
section K and L. The tower changes in shape from a square at the top of 
section K or just above the lower part of the blind dormers shown at each 
corner of the tower, to an octagon, parts of the eight sides of the tower em¬ 
braced by the section L being covered by tin shingles, while the rest of the 
surface of the four sides, above the four corners of the lower part of the 
tower, have the roofs of the blind dormers mitering against them and are 
tnus covered. The pediments shown in section L are the last or highest 
parts of the tower which show the same as the ‘square parts. The gable 
of each dormer extends back from the front to where it miters to the 
octagonal surface of the section L. The roofs of these dormers are also 
to be covered with tin shingles. The pilasters of the window casing are 
shown extending from the top of section I to the top of section L. The 
section above L is shown by each side having an ornamental circular 
molding and fluted panel design. These eight sides are all in section M. 
Section N is the upper top cornice of the tower. Above this is shown the 
slate covered roof and the large finial surmounting the highest part of 
the entire structure. Fig. 165 shows a right-hand side elevation of the 
front bay extension, the front porch and of the tower. It also gives the 
angle that the front and baok roof have. All the details enumerated and 
partly described for the front elevation are almost the same for this eleva¬ 
tion. 

The only difference is that the paneled section I of Fig. 164 extends 
to and is partly cut into by the roof of the bay, thus causing the section to 
be cuj off at an angle as shown in Fig. 164. Fig. 165 also shows the 
finials on the tower, the apex of the bay roof and the side view of the finial 
on the gable of the porch pediment. A side elevation of the dormer on 
the roof of the bay is also shown. The plan, Fig. 166, shows all the roof 
surfaces of the main roof, the tower roof and also the roof or decks of the 
orches. These are shown by A and B; the porch deck C is the roof of 

dormer of the front bay. T shows the octagon tower roof and also the 
gable roofs of the blind dormers of the tower. The five finials capping 
the different roof ridges of the building and also the finial surmounting 
the apex of the tower roof are shown by E for the tower finial, by N for 
front porch finial and by D F H and K for. main roof finials. All the 
ridges, hips and valleys are shown by the hips being marked. The val¬ 
leys of the main roofs are all marked with a letter V. From point R to 
the gutter shown at S a strip of 20" galvanized flashing is to be used and 


200 


CORNICE WORK MANUAI 



Fig 165. 


3 
















































































































































































































































u 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


201 


for that portion of the roof shown by M M the proper size flashing tins 
are to he used under each slate and against the tower. The hips of the 
octagon tower are to be fitted with blind flashing and each slate is to be 
neatly and closely cut and mitered to the adjoining angle that the slate 
on the next side of the tower roof has. The four chimneys are all to be 
provided with suitable flashings. All the ridges and hips are to be capped 
with copings as shown in the drawing and all valleys are to have the slate 
laid close and neatly mitering against each other. These valleys in addi- 
tion to the regular valley tin are to have a blind flashing tin put undei 
each joint at the angle of the miter wherever two slates butt against each 
other. The entire gutters are to be 28" wide, of X tin. The gutters ex< 
tend for the front from X to X' and the back gutters from point S to poini 
L. At points 1, 2 and 3 the 4" tubes for the leader or down spouting arf 
to be placed. 

The front cornice extends from point C of Fig. 164, which 
corresponds to the position of the point X of Fig. 166, to the point 
U to point P in plan, shown by D in Fig. 164, and from these correspond¬ 
ing points as point P of plan and J) in elevation clear around the octagon 
bay to X, as shown us plan and in elevation by E, Fig. 164 From point 
X the profile of the main cornice around the tower changes somewhat from 
the profile that the main cornice of the building has, but both cornices 
are alike as to height and are easily mitered and fitted one to the other at 

point X show in Fig. 166. The main cornice also miters to the raking cor¬ 
nice of the main side gable of the building at the point X, also shown by 
Fig. 166 in plan. Fig. 167 shows a complete detail diawing of the main 




























































































































202 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


cornice drawn to the scale of 1" to the foot. In this figure the general 
outline of the profile for the cornice is shown to be about the same as Fig. 



164 shows it, but as to the matter of the enriched frieze course the 
stamped ornamental scroll work as shown in Fig. 167 may be used in¬ 
stead of the ornamentation shown in Fig. 164 for this part. The crown 
molding for this design is shown by the member A, Fig. 167; directly 
underneath this is shown a wide fascia band B. The profile of the cornice 
recedes from point 1 to the bed molding C and from there down along 
the dotted line D of the dental course to the bed molding F. The outline 
of the profile for the brackets is shown from point 1 to 2 between the 
lower part of the fascia band to the bed molding F. G is the enriched or 
ornamental frieze course and H is the foot molding of this cornice. G is 
the enriched or ornamental frieze course and H is the foot molding of 
this cornice. All the foregoing description gives the outline of the profile 
for both the main cornice and for the brackets. The wall line or the line 
from which the entire projection extends is shown by line x to x, all the 
rest of this design, Fig. 167, shows a front view of the cornice, the general 






















































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 203 

disposition of the different members, such as brackets, dentil blocks, mold¬ 
ings, etc. The girt of the entire profile of this cornice measures 53^", or 
say 54"=4'6" The distance around from point x to x' is as follows, mea¬ 
sured at the outer edge of cornice as shown by plan Fig. 166: From the 
outer edge at X of a to b is 5' 3"; b measures 11' 6", c is 2' 9", d is 8", e, 
f and g are each 5' 10", h is 8", i is 2' 9" and X' is 2' long, making a sum 
total of 43'5" for *he entire length of the cornice, or say 43' 6" x 4' 6"=l95f 
sq. feet. Now allowing 4J' ; Sq. ft. for waste we will make this say 200 sq. ft. 
Allow one squ-re foot for each bracket; there being 22 of these, makes 22 
sq. ft. more. Allow 5 >q. ft. for 75 dentil blocks, making the total 200 + 22 
+ 5=227 sq. ft. of iron for the main cornice shown from point X to X' in 
plan and from C to E in front elevation, Fig. 164. In this cornice there are 
two outside and three inside square return miters and one molding miter¬ 
ing to a raking cornice from the side gable at X and the other end at X 
mitering and fitted to the main cornice of the tower. Both these last-men¬ 
tioned joints are shown in the plan, Fig. 166. Thus is seen that this cornice 
has eleven miter joints in all. This item is to be taken into account when 
the time estimate is figured up for this cornice. The next section of the 
main cornice of this building which I will show how to measure up is the 
gable cornice for the left-hand side of building, a3 shown in plan Fig. 166, 
from points X, K to L, and extending back from the gable cornice proper 
with a square return to the point r. This section of the cornice from 
point X to r is designed in profile to correspond with its raking members 
in outline to the profile of the main cornice, Fig. 167, from point X to point 
O. This is shown by Fig. 168. Fart A is in outline the same as the sec¬ 
tion of the horizontal cornice, Fig. 167 is, and part B of Fig. 168 shows 
the profile of the corresponding raking cornice which miters to the section 
A. As can readily be deducted from the front elevation and from the plan, 
Figs. 164 and 166, the raking cornice will have three miter joints, one at 
the gable and two joints, one at each lower end where the raking cornice 
miters to the horizontal section. The section shown in plan from point L 
to r is to be in profile the same as part A of Fig. 168, or as shown from X 
to O in Fig. 167 for the same. The face of this cornice, Fig. 168, shows 
that there are to be no dentil blocks on the dentil course, but it is to be 
plain throughout. 

The length of the gable cornice is for each side 13'x2= 26' long 
for the both sides, or for the length of the raking gable cornice. The 
profile measures in stretch-out 20J", or say 21". Thus 26'x21"=45i- 
square feet, are required for this part of the cornice. The section shown in 
plan from L to r measures 8' long, the girt of profile is 23J". This adds 


204 CORNICE WORK MANUAL 

another 8 sq. ft. of mateiial to the list. The profile of the rear and the cor- 

V, 






nices at the back ends of the sides on the building are to be as shown in. 
outline in Fig. 169.? The stretch-out of this profile measures 17J", or say 
18", the entire length of all ihe members of the cornice having a profile as 
in Fig. 169 are from point r to point s as shown in Fig. 166 or plan. This 
length is 5b' 8 ".‘t Thus 58'8" x 18"=88 sq. ft. to be -added to the total 
quantity of material to be added for this section of the entire cornice. There 
are four miter joints in this section. The two end joints, one at point r, the 
other at point S, are each half-sections of a miter joint only/ The joint at 
point s is merely to be fitted to ihe outline of the main cornice course as far 
as required by this member. ' The other end .of the cornice at point r is to 
be fitted to the section L and r, but as may be noticed, the two profiles of 
the two sections are not alike in height or in profile. One peculiar feature 
in this joint is that a four-inch tube is to be let through the cornice at this 
point from the gutter; thus the greater part of both the dissimilar profiles of 
the two cornice sections will be cut by the outline that the four-ir ch tube 
has, and as a consequence the moldings of the two sections are to miter 
against this tube, thereby reducing the amount of contact that the two sec¬ 


tions of the cornice should have together, and greatly improving the ap¬ 
pearance of the remaining part of the irregular joint that these dissimilar 
moldings have when joined together. % The foregoing embraces all the cor¬ 
nices around the main building. ’ The next item will be the cornice around 
the square tower shown by H in Fig. 164 and in plan, Fig. 166, from point 
X' to Gto n for its entire length. This from point X' to point n is 21' 6" 
long. The stretch-out or girt of section H as shown by Fig. 170, drawn to 
the scale of one inch to the foot, is from point 1 to 14 2S§", or say 24"; 
















CORNICE WORK MANUAL 



from point 14 of profile to point 15 is 17£", or say 18" frjm point 15 to 24 
is 13£", making altogether 55£" girt measurement for this cornice. Thus 
21' 6"x55"=:99 ft. nearly, or to use even numbers say 100 square feet of 
iron. Now add to this the extra material necessary for the dentil blocks 
five square feet, and also allow for the extra material required to make the 
panels shown for these 10 square feet more, which will make the quantity 
of iron needed for this cornice 115 square feet. This completes the 
entire course of the main cornice around the tower and building and 
enves the iron needed for the same. This total so far is 483|- square feet. 

Fig. 171 shows a sectional elevation of one-half of the pediment 
cornice for the front porch. It also shows the profile of the main and 
deck cornices for both the front and side porch (A and B in plan Fig. 
166). The average width of the stretch out for the main cornices of 
both porches is 42". This includes from point C to D, E to H shown 
in profile Fig. 171. The stretch-out of the cap cornices for both of the 
porches is 15" wide each. The elevation as shown by Fig. 171 gives the 
correct position of the g*neral details of the entire jrofile for both cornices 





















































206 CORNICE WORK MANUAL 

of the porches, and it also shows the position and outline of the ornamen¬ 



tal scroll shown by X for one side of the pediment; the other side has a 
similar ornamental scroll, which is shown in elevation by Fig. 164. In 
addition to this it also gives a broken view of part of the ornamental finial 
which is to be placed on the apex of this pediment. From point C to D is 
shown a section of rihbed coping. The curved roof parts of both front 

















































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


207 


and side porch are to be covered with tin shingles. 



Fig. 17*- 


The two flat deck roofs are to be covered with flat seamed tin. Two roofs 
have curved corners Roof A of front porch has one square and one curved 
corner, while roof B of the back porch has two corners that are curved in 
plan but have a different radius from each other. The curve S of roof A 
and curve S of roof. B are alike, that is, they have the same radius in 

plan. Fig. 172 shows a complete plan of the three curved parts in plan of 
the two porch roofs. Every necessary line needed to give a correct plan 
view of both the two large curved parts and the smaller curve S" of Fig. 160 
are shown in Fig. 172. This figure shows by plan A the correct radius for all 
the lines of the larger curves and also a side elevation of the correct rela- 





































































































208 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


fcive position such a view has to the lines in plan A. By part B the com* 
plete radius of all the lines needed for the smaller curve are given. These 
curves are also placed in their correct relative positions that they have to 
the side elevation as in nart, a of Fig:. 172 The part C of this figure 
shows the profile of all the moldings of these cornices placed in such a 
position as to indicate the relative positions they have to each other in a 
plan view, but by the arrangement as given, are shown so place in profile* 
By this disposition of these members we are enabled to use both ways, 
either above or below the profiles, to show the correct relative positions 
these curves have to the profiles of the deck moldings and cornices, as well 
as the correct relation and position that the smaller curves of the curve B 
have to those of the larger curves of part A in a plan view. All this is 
shown in a general way by the rear porch plan B in Fig. 166 by S' and S", 
and is given in detail in Fig. 172. The amount of stretch-out for both the 
curved moldings as well as for a straight course, is in a sectional view 
about the same, but when the workman comes to lay out the curved mold- 
ngs he will find that they require considerably more material than is 
needed to make a straight molding of the same profile. Thi point is cov* 
ered by some cutters when they have a considerable amount of curved 
work to get out by allowing one-third more material for a curved molding 
than for a straight one, both being of the same profile in section. This 
method answers all purposes where it is not required to be too precise or 
where the absolute required amount has not to be determined in the prelim¬ 
inary stages of the estimating on the cost of any certain job of circular 
moldings for any cornice. I may venture to state in connection with this 
point that the additional one-third of material which some cutters add, 
amply covers all demands for this point, and for this case I have used it in 
figuring up the material required for the moldings as shown by Figs. 171 and 
172. The foregoing understood and by using the methods described, we 
may now proceed to figure up the amount of iron required to construct 
the cornices for the two porches shown in Fig. 164, the stretch-out of 
profile of both main cornices being 42", and for the deck moldings 15". 
The next step is to measure the lengths of these respective members. The 
total length of straight cornice on porch a is 20' 6"; on porch B 9' are 
required. Both being the same profile, add these two lengths together. 
Thus 9' -f- 20' 6" = 29' 6" -f- 42'" — 103 sq. ft. of material is re¬ 
quired for these sections. The curved moldings on porch A are 6 ft. in 
length, while those of porch B measure 10', thus 10' -f- 6' = 16' -f- 42" 
— 57 J, or say 58 sq. ft. To this amount add one-third or 19 sq. ft., as 
directed in the foregoing descriptions, and the result is that for the curved 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


m 


moldings of main cornices of both porches we allow 77 sq. ft. The total 
length of the deck moldings of the porches is 16' for porch A and 9' for 
porch B. Thus we have 9' -f- 16 = 25' x 15" the stretch-out = 31£ 
sq. ft. 

I will next give the methods for the same purpose for the remainder of 
the covering of the square and octagonal tower from the balustrade course 
or section I to the section N or top cornice of the octagon part of the tower. 
Section I of Fig. 164, or the balustrade course, is shown drawn to the 
scale of 1" to the foot by Fig. 173. This section in the plan and both the 
front and side elevations run around only three sides of the tower—the 
front and back and the right-hand side only, the left-hand side of the tower 
joining to the roof on a level with the top line of section I, consequently 
for this side theie is no course of covering as shown to be on the other 
three. The only point where the course would come around and on the 



left side is at the corner R shown in plan, but this part, instead of being 
brought around, the course is continued at the back in a straight 
line until the roof X and the roof 0 is brought over with its edge to the line 
bounding the outside of this course at the top. As will be seen, this course 
shows on each of the three sides a cap molding, a to b, Fig. 173, each 
side having two diamond capped panels and also two pilaster columns, as 
shown by c to d of the same figure. A detail elevation and profile of both 
the pilasters and the panels are shown. The stretch-out of the profile for 





















































210 CORNICE WORK MANUAL 

this section from point a to the bottom line of the cap molding is shown" 
from points 1 to 10, and measures 18J"; for the remainder down, I will 
take for the average, both pilasters and panels, the outline or profile of the 
panel shown in Fig. 173. This measures, from point 1 to 15, 27|"; add 
the length between the points 1 to 10 to this, and we have the total of 45|" 
for sfreteh-out. The length that this section has is from point XX to R, 
shown in the plan Fig. 166, and it measures 33". Thus we have 
38"x45i"=125 square feet and a trifle over. The front part of section I 
miters to the roof. This cuts away part of the section, but I do not deem 
the quantity sufficient to take it into account when figuring up the total, 
therefore this has not been done. The next sections which I will discuss 
are K and L, including the blind dormer fronts, the pilasters and window 
casings shown in the front elevation. Fig. 174 shows an enlarged detail 
drawing of the blind dormer fronts. There are eight of these fronts on the 
tower. Each front has two ornamental rosettes—one in the pediment and 
one fixed to the apex of the gable, as shown by Fig, 174. Both in eleva 
vation and profile or section these rosettes are either to be of stamped zinc 
or may be made by hand, of galvanized iron. The totil surface of the 
lower part of one of these dormers, as shown for section K, is from point 
a to b in profile, from point b where the sunken panel begins to its lower 
end c. from that point to point d at the lowest line of this section 46", and 
from X to X, which measures 38^. This multiplied by 46", the height, 
makes 13 square feet, nearly, which multiplied by 8, the number of dor¬ 
mers, makes the total for these fronts so far 13x8=104 square feet. 
Add to this the extra 3£ square feet of iron needed for tne nine panels and 
the half-round moldings R and S for each dormer, which makes 31 x 8=28 
square feet more to be added to the quantity found for these members. 
The gable molding K has a stretch-out of 6" for its profile, there being alto 
gether six feet of this molding for each dormer, making the hngth for the 
eight 6x8=48"; this length multiplied by 6", the stretch-out, makes the 
quantity of iron required for these members 24 square feet. The triangu¬ 
lar pediment behind each dormer measures IJ square feet; that is 8 x H=12 
square feet for these surfaces, making the entire total for the eight blind 
dormers of the tower 168 square feet. 

The quantity of iron required for the pilasters and frame for the 
in section K and L of the tower is shown by the Fig. 175. This figure 
shows the columns, both in section and elevation, and a profile of the 
frame which is to be covered. This is shown from point a to b and meas¬ 
ures between these two points in stretch-out 6". The length of this frame 
for the two sides and top is 14", thus 14" x by 6" = 7 gq. ft. X by 8, 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 211 

which is the number of windows in the tower, we have 21 sq. ft. for the 



frames. The pilaster columns may be taken as having an average of 13" 
in girt and for length each one has in stretch-out G' 3". This is for the pilas¬ 
ter columns for the tower; thus we have 6 x by 6' 3" -- 37' 6" x by 13" 
= 41 sq. ft. nearly; add to this the quantity found for the sash frames, 
which is 21 sq. ft. and this makes the total for these members of sections 
K and L 62 sq. ft. In connection with these figures given for the sections 
K and L it may be well to state that the side of the tower toward the hip 
roof which joins to it shows that the sides of the tower are cut by the 
dotted fines where the roof line is. These dotted fines show that the roof 
cuts away part of the blind dormers on that side and . the pilasters if 
arranged as the other three sides of the tower are. This for the case as 
shown would demand that some allowance be made for material to make 
the upper parts of the pilasters, but as the surface exposed is made flat as 







































































212 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 



Fi*176- 


the pilasters show, the material cut off from the lower part of the blind 
dormers and which will not be used there can be used for tha,t part of the 
section L for which no material has been allowed for and whioh is amply 
sufficient for those parts. 

The section M of the elevation showing the circular moldings and 
fluted panels are drawn out to the scale of I" to the foot and are thus 
shown by Fig. 176, both in profile and elevation. One-half of elevation 
being sufficient to show all the required details I have only shown that 
^uch for this section. 

The stretch-out of this profile is from a to b, not of course, in this case 
including the projections of the moldings C D, and the flutes E is 8' 10' the 
width of each one of the eight sides of the tower is 4'; 4" thus 4' 4" x by 
8 — 84' 8" x by 8' 10" = 183 sq. ft. nearly. Now measure up the pro¬ 
file of the moldings C and D: these together are 12" wide, the length of the 
sweep of these moldings is 6' long, thus we have 6' x by 8" = 48' x by 
12" = 48 sq. ft.; now add one-third of this last found, total for waste 
in cutting, etc., and we have 48 x 16 = 64 sq. ft. of iron required for the 
entire circular moldings of all the eight sides of the section M of the tower. 



























CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


213 


There are also 128 half-balls or hemispheres required for this eight-sided 
section. Sixteen 1£" spun zinc half-balls are shown for a full side by Fig. 
176. The foregoing deductions for the total quantity of iron required for 
this section were arrived at by the following disposition of the members 
and surfaces entering into the construction of each one of the eight sides, 
one-half of one of them being shown by Fig. 176. From point X to b is 
to be a straight or flat back, then the raised square panel X', the circular 
moldings C and D and also the flutes are to be soldered to tdis back all in 
their proper relative positions as demanded by Fig. 176. The total quantity 
of iron required for the flutes of all the eight sides of section M is 48 sq. ft. 



The crown molding or the top course of cornice for the tower is shown 
by Fig. 177, drawn to the scale of one inch to the foot. The stretch-out 
of profile for this section N measures 36"; the entire length for the eight 
sides of the tower of this cornice measures 72', thus we have 72 x 
36" = 216 square feet of iron required for this section N of the tower. 
There are 48 3" half-balls demanded for section N. Allow for these when 
summing up the total material required for this job. The next and last 
member of this structure, besides the finials, to measure up is the front 
dormer, projecting from the front bay roof. Au elevation drawn to the 
scale of one inch to the foot is shown hy Fig-. 178. This figure shows all 
the details of the front as well as the profile outlines at the extreme front 
outline. Fig. 179 shows a side elevation of the covered side and part of 
the slate covered roof in connection with the angle line that the roof has, 
as shown by line a, b. 

I will first instruct how to measure up the front as shown by Fig. 178. 

























214 CORNICE WORK MANUAL 

The stretch-out of the gable molding measures from the point a to b T . 
There are 6' 6" of this molding, making 6' 6" x 7" ~ a little over 
square feet, or say 4 square feet for this molding. The pilaster columns 
have an average width of 7" and measure in profile for their height each 






























































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


215 


33" Thus the two require 3£ square feet of iron. Allow 4 square feet 
of iron for the curved molding, the sash frame and the pediment flat front. 
Allowfor the two ornamental rosettes shown in this view. For the mate¬ 
rial required for the two sides measure the profile of the horizontal mold¬ 
ing mitering to the gable molding, then from line a of Fig. 179 to point 
a of the roof angle. This distance is 28": then from a to d 
is 18”; thus 28" multiplied by 18" equals 3J square feet. As each 
side has one-half the area that this result would make, by reason of 
the roof line cutting the side of the dormer as it does, but as there are two 



sides and each is just half this area, the result is correct as it stands, 
namely, ^ square feet for the two sides of the dormer. The iron required 
for the coping for this dormer is 3J square feet, making the total quantity 
of iron required for the entire dormer 18| square feet. 













CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


215 


Next ascertain the quantity of iron required to construct a finial to 
cap the tower drawn out to the scale of 1" to the foot in Fig. 180, both in 
elevation as well as plan. To accomplish this proceed as follows: Measure 
the outline of profile from a to b. This for Fig. 180 is 48". Next take 
the outline of the fluted or ribbed part of plan from a' to b', which meas¬ 



ures 12', then measure the width of the top octagonal part near the 8" 
ball. This is say 2" for each section. The average width of these pieces 





























CORNICE WORK MANUAL. 


21? 


would be 6", which would be an ample allowance to cut the sections from 
if they had a gradual slope from a to b, but as the design Fig. 180 is some 
wider on an average than the figures given before it would be well to allow 
for the entire width of the sections 6J"; thus 6i" x 48"=2 1-6 square 
feet for each section and 2 1-6 square ft. x 8—17^ square feet for the 
entire finial. One 8" ball is to be charged to the cost of this member. A 


similar method for the large finial can also be used to ascertain the quan¬ 
tity of iron required for the two smaller finials, Figs. 181 and 182. These 
two members have each a hexagonal column and are mounted on a square 



base. The iron required for the finial shown by Fig. 181 is 5 ] square 
feet, and for the finial Fig. 182 it is 4|- square feet. Both results have been 
arrived at by a similar method to that used to find the area of surface for 
the tower finial. There being two finials like the one shown by Fig. 181, 
11 square feet will be needed for these, making the total 151 square feet ol 
iron. Fig. 188 show r s the front and side elevations of a rather bizarre de¬ 
sign for a finial for the gable of pediment for the front porch, shown in 
Fig. 164. The design, although its appropriativeness for the general en¬ 
semble of the entire front of this building is to be admitted, still there is a 
certain effect of heaviness about it, that, when this finial is compared wilh 
the graceful and delicate design shown by Fig 184, would lead one to give 
the last-mentioned finial the preference for an ornament to be placed on 
the gable of a pediment, as shown by the Fig. 164. Precisely such a change 
as the above-mentioned took place and was ordered by the owner of such a 
building, as the designs show where the choice lay between two.desigus aa 





















218 


CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


presented by Figs. 188 and 184, and he had the choice of style. 

The foregoing described circumstances in this case induced me to give 



both designs in this instance. I have also given the manner of estimating 
the material required to construct either style. To ascertain that required 
for a finial as in Fig. 183 measure up the base of front elevation A. This 
is 1 square foot for the front and the same for the back. It will also re¬ 
quire 2 square feet for the two sides of the base shown by B, Fig. 183. 
Then for the circular column from a to C, shown by both views, it will 
take 8J square feet more. The shell head scroll and fan spray ornamenta¬ 
tion will require 5J square feet more for this finial, making a total of 13 
































CORNICE WORK MANUAL 


219 



square feet. The material required to construct the finial Fig. 184 will be 
considerably less. Each base from the roof to the large 4£" spheres or 
balls requires 1J equare feet; both together 3 square feet. The two coni¬ 
cal parts from above the 4£" balls to the apex of each lequire 2 square 
feet. It will take another 1| square foot for the base for the center ball 
and the connecting rail between the three posts, thus making the total 
surface of the iron required for this finial square feet. Add to this total 
two 4|", one 8", two 1J" and two f" spheres or balls, twelve f" hemis¬ 
pheres or half-balls and two ornamental 3" rosettes. This completes the 
total galvanized cornice work that there is about this building, with the ex¬ 
ception of the hip copings of the roofs. 


























































INDEX 


it 

A 

PAGE 

Allowance for Waste. 92 

Angles, Base Degrees of. 92 

Angle Tret . 10 

Architrave .10" 12 

Area in Ornamental Pillars. 91 

Area in Turrets. 91 

Arrow Head Pattern. 55 

Arrow Vane. 100 

Assembling Cornice Work. 114 

Attachment, Inking for Compass. 7 

Attachment, Pencil Point for Compass. 7 

Axonometrical Triangles . 10 

B 

Bale Sling . 82 

Ball and Star, Ornamental. 178 

Ball for Finial. 54 

Balls, Iron for Circular Supports of. 91 

Ball, Spun Zinc. 54 

Band Fascia, Face of. 12 

Bar Iron, Sizes of. 19 

Bars Square for Cresting. 173 

Base Angles, Degrees of. 10 

Beading Machine . 143 

Beam Compasses . ... 7 

Bed Moldings . 12 

Bend, Common. 79 

Bench Cutters . * . 1 

Bevel . 7 

Binding Timbers, Knot For. 79 

Block, End . 12 

Block, Head. 12 

Blocking Up Raised Work. 152 

Block, Pulley . 82 

Block, Rope Strapped. 82 

Blocks, Dentil.12-15 

Block, Snatch . 82 







































INDEX 


221 
PAGE 

Blocks, Tackle . 82 

Block, Stop .. .*.;. 12 

Bolts for Cornice Scaffoldings. 65 

Bowline Knot . 79 

Brace for Fastening Planceer. 61 

Braces, Fastening to Galvanized Iron Surfaces. 62 

Braces, Main, Made in One Piece. 62 

Braces, Wooden . 63 

Bracings and Fastenings of Cornices to Buildings. 56 

Bracket Patterns . 28 

Brackets .14-15 

Brackets for Staging.. 66 

Brackets Joining to Planceer. 29 

Brackets, Modillion . 12 

Brackets, Placing in Position. 58 

Bricks, Wooden. 60 

Butt, Mitres. 13 

Butt, Sling . 82 

C 

Gap of the Turret. 151 

Cartage. 22 

Cask Sling . 82 

Cast and Pressed Zinc, Specifications of. 88 

Cement, Roofer’s. 112 

Center Ornament for Pediment. 40 

Center Piece of Flute, Development of. 50 

Center Pieces . 15 

Chain Knot . 79 

Circular Ornaments for Cornice. 93 

Circular Supports of Balls, Iron For. 91 

Classification of Slate. 109 

Cheating Fascia Band to Planceer. 59 

Clove Hitch . 81 

Columns, Pediment. 40 

Combination Half Hitch and Timber Hitch. 82 

Common Bend . 79 

Compasses, Beam. 7 

Composition Die, Durability of. 75 

Computing the Surface of Slate. 108 

Conductors, Specifications of. 87 

Cone, Frustrum of, Stretchout For, Envelope For. 147 

Constructing Moldings for Turrets. 138 

Convenient Method for Putting up Cornices in Sections. 59 

Coping of Gable . hi 













































222 


INDEX 


PAGE 

Coping, Projection on Panel of. 98 

Copings, End, Paneled.161 

Copings, Iron For. 91 

Copings, Material For. 92 

Copper, Weight of. 19* 

Copper Work, Specifications of. 88 

Corbel Blocks. 14 

Cornice. 10 

Cornice, Circular Ornaments For. 93 

Cornice, Cresting . 83 

Cornice, Deck Material For. 92 

Cornice Gable .83-126 

Cornice, Gable, Material For. 92 

Cornices, Gable Stretchout For. 189 

Cornice, Horizontal . 83 

Cornice, Joining Parts of.„ . . . 3 

Cornice, Lintel . 13 

Cornice, Material For . 92 

Cornice, Method for Putting Up in Sections. 59' 

Cornice, Pediment . 205 

Cornice, Baking . 126 

Cornices, Bracings and Fastenings to Buildings. 56 

Cornice, Scaffolding Bolts For. 65' 

Cornices, Measuring of. 17 

Cornice Work, Assembling. 114 

Cornice Work, Defects In. 56 

Cornice, Working Drawings of. 96 

Cornice Work, Scaffolding For. 64 

Cornice Work, Staging For. 64 

Covering of Octagonal Tower. 209 

Covering of Square Tower. 209 

Crayons, Marking. 8 

Cresting Cornice . 83 

Crestings, Material For. 92 

Cresting, Specifications of . 88 

Cresting, Square Bars For. 173 

Crimping Machine . 140 

Crossed Fastening. 80 

Crown Molding. 12 

Crown Molding, Pattern For. 35 

Crushing Besistance of Slate. 109 

Crystallization Secondary, Planes of, in Slate. 110 

Curved Molding for Turret. 150 

Curved Molding Machine. 144 

Curves, Drawing. 7 















































INDEX 


223 


Cutters, Bench .... 
Cutters, Efficiency of 

Cutters, Tools . 

Cutters, Work. 


PAGE 

1 

37 

3-5 

o 


D 


Deck Cornice, Material For. 

Deck Molding, Pattern For. 

Deck, Pattern For . 

Defects in Cornice Work. 

Degree Scales . 

Degrees of Base Angles. 

Dentil Band Pattern . 

Dentil Blocks . 

Dentil Mold . 

Descriptive Geometry. 

Determination of Position for Each Point of Horizontal Molding. . 

Developing Square Plorizontal Mitres. 

Development of Center Piece of Flute. 

Developing of Spiral Stretchouts. 

Die Composition, Durability of. 

Dies for Ornament Stamping Machine. 

Differences in Horizontal Molding Mitering. 

Dividers . 

Dormer Window, Gable Cornice For. 

Dormer Windows, Material For. 

Dormer Window, to Measure. 

Double Rope, Knot On. 

Drawing Curves . 

Drawings of Finial. 

Drawings, Reading of. 

Drawings Should Be Large Scale. 

Drawings, Working of Cornice. 

Drawing Table . 

Drawing Tools ... 

Drawing to Scale. 

Dressing Stake . 

Durability of Composition Die. 


92 

35 

35 

56 

7 

10 

30 
12-75 

12 

13 

188 

31 
50 

159 

75 

73 

33 

7 

185 

92 

91 

79 

7 

99 

13 

187 

96 

1 

7 

90 

111 

75 


E 

Edge, Straight Steel. 5 

Efficiency of Cutters. 37 

Emergency Loops . 

End Block. 12 









































224 


INDEX 


End Copings, Paneled . 

Ends of Rope Fastening. 

Entablature .*. 

Envelope of a Molding. 

Erasers, Rubber. 

Estimating... 

Eye Splice. 

F 

Face of Fascia Band. 

Fascia Band, Cleating to Planceer. 

Fascia Band, Face of. 

Fascia Band, Pattern For. 

Fastening Crossed . 

Fastening Fluted Section to Pediment. 

Fastening Rope Ends. 

Fastening Stays and Braces to Galvanized Iron Surfaces 

Feather End . 

Feather End of Yane, Pattern For. 

Felting, Specifications of. 

Felt Roofing .. 

Figure-Eight Knot . 

Finial . 

Finial, Ball For. 

Finial, Drawings . 

Finial, Iron For. 

Finial, Pattern For. 

Finials, Material For. 

Finials on Gable. 

Finial Staff of, Section For. 

Finial Yane of, Section For. 

Flashing, Specifications of. 

Flooring for Upper and Lower Staging. 

Flute Center Piece, Development of. 

Fluted Section, Fastening to Pediment. 

Fluted Sections of Pendant. 

Flute Pattern . 

Flutes Spiral .. 

Foot Mold . 

Foot Molding, Profile of. 

Foot Ruler. 

Forming Machine, Use of. 

Four-Sided Pyramid, Frustrum of. 

Four-Way Swivel. 

Frieze, Panel Sunk. 


PAGE 

161 

80 

10 

25 

8 

20 

70 


12 

50 

12 

35 

80 

50 
80 
62 

100 

55 
89 

107 

70 

16* 

54 

00 
9-j iy 

/V 1 I 

51 
92 
91 

175 

175 

80 

67 

50 

50 

155 
49 

156 
12 
24 

6 

48 

51 

56 
15 















































INDEX 


225 

PAGE 


Frieze Section ... 12 

Front Elevation of Tower. 197 

Frnstrum of Cone, Stretchout for Envelope of. 147 

Frustrum of Four-Sided Pyramid. 51 


C 

Gable, Coping of. 91 

Gable Cornice for Dormer Window. 185 

Gable Cornice .83-126 

Gable Cornice, Material For. 92 

Gable Cornices, Stretchout For. 189 

Gable, Finials on . 91 

Gable Mitres. 13 

Gable Moldings . 13 

Galvanized Iron Sheeting, Specifications of. 88 

Galvanized Iron Surfaces, Fastening Stays to. 62 

Galvanized Iron Cornices, Specifications of. 87 

Geometry, Descriptive . 13 

Gutters, Specifications of . 87 


H 


Half Hitch . 

Half Hitch and Timber Hitch, Combination of. 

Hammer, Slater’s. 

Hammock Hitch . 

Haswell’s Table of Safe Load of Ropes. 

Head Blocks . 

Head Blocks, Iron For. 

Head Blocks, Material For. 

Head Molds . 

Heating Zinc Sheets. 

Hemispheres Ornamental . 

Flip Moldings . 

Hitch, Clove. 

Hitch, Half . 

Hitch, Hammock . 

Hitch, Timber .. 

Hoisting Tackle, Management of. 

Horizontal Cornice . 

Horizontal Cornice Miters . 

Horizontal Miter Patterns. 

Horizontal Molding, Determination of Position for Each Point of.. 

Horizontal Molding Mitering, Differences in. 

Horizontal Moldings with Different Profiles, Miter Line For. 


81 

82 

111 

82 

82 

168 

91 

92 
12 

74 
150 

13 

81 

81 

82 

81 

75 
83 

103 

113 

188 

33 

41 









































226 


INDEX 


PAGE 


I 

Inking Attachment for Compass... 

Inside Mitres . 

Iron for Circular Supports of Balls. 


Iron for Copings. 91 

Iron for Finial.. 217 

Iron for Head Blocks. 91 

Iron for Pilasters . 210 

Iron Lookouts. 193 


J 

Joining Brackets to Planceer. 

Joining Parts of Cornice. 

K 

Knife, Slater's. 

Knot, Bowline. 

Knot, Chain . 

Knot, Figure-Eight . 

Knot for Binding Timbers. 

Knot, Over-Handed . 

Knot on Double Pope. 

Knot, Eeef.. 

Knot, Sailor’s, Slip Clinch, etc. 

Knot, Square . .. 

Knot, Waterman’s . 

L 

Lever, Securing . 

Lineal Perspective . 

Lintel Cornice . 

Load Safe for Ropes. 

Lookouts, Iron . 

Lookouts, Wooden . 

Lookouts, Wooden, on Brackets. 

Loops, Emergency . 

M 

Machine, Beading. 

Machine, Crimping. 

Machine for Making Curved Moldings 
Machine, Farming, Use of. 


29 

28 


112 

79 

79 

79 

79 

79 

79 

79 

79 

79 

81 


72 

7 

13 

82 

193 

59 

193 

80 


143 
140 

144 
48 



































INDEX 


PAGE 

Machine for Stamping Ornaments. 69 

Machine for Stamping Ornaments, Dies For. 73 

Main Braces Made in One Piece... 62 

Making Sisal Ropes Heavy. 83 

Management of Rope and Hoisting Tackle. 75 

Marking Crayons. 8 

Marlin Spike . 79 

Material for Copings . 92 

Material for Cornice . 92 

Material for Crestings . 92 

Material for Deck Cornice. 92 

Material for Dormer Window. 92 

Material for Finials. 92 

Material for Gable Cornice . 92 

Material for Head Blocks. 92 

Material for Ridge Cresting. 92 

Material for Turrets. 92 

Material for Under Blocks. 92 

Measuring of Cornices.•. 17 

Measuring Dormer Window . 91 

Mechanical Generalship, Scope For. 114 

Metallic Skylights, Specifications of . 87 

Method for Putting up Cornices in Sections. 59 

Method of Stamping Ornaments. 75 

Mitering, Differences in Horizontal Molding. 33 

Mitering with the Turrets.. 122 

Mitre, Horizontal Patterns for. 113 

Mitre Line for Raking Molding. 127 

Mitre Line for Two Horizontal Moldings with Different Profiles. . 41 

Mitre Line with Profile Above or Below. 27 

Mitre Patterns, Right Angle Return. 35 

Mitre Pediment. 127 

Mitre Right Angled Pattern For.'. 23 

Mitres.•. 13 

Mitres, Horizontal Cornice . 103 

Mitres, Square Horizontal Development of. 31 

Modillion Brackets . 12 

Modillion Ornaments . 12 

Mold, Dentil. 12 

Mold, Foot. 12 

Molding, Crown. 12 

Molding, Curved for Turret. 150 

Molding, Envelope of. 25 

Molding, Mitering, Horizontal, Differences in. 33 

Molding Raking Mitre Line For. 127 














































228 


INDEX 


PAGE 


Moldings, Bed. 12 

Moldings for Turrets . 138 

Moldings, Hip. 13 

Moldings, Gable . 13 

Moldings, Ridge . 15 

Molds, Head . 12 

Mold, String . 12 


N 

Necessary Qualities of Slate. 



Octagonal Tower, Covering of. 

Ornamental Ball and Star. 

Ornamental Conductor and Heads, Specifications of 

Ornamental Hemispheres. 

Ornamental Pillars, Area of. 

Ornamental Scroll Work, Stamped. 

Ornamental Turrets . 

Ornamental Turrets, Position of. 

Ornamental Center for Pediment. 

Ornaments . 

Ornament “Smoking” Side of. 

Ornaments, Circular for Cornice. 

Ornaments, Method of Stamping. 

Ornaments, Modillion . 

Ornament Stamping Machine... 

Ornament Stamping Machine, Hies For. 

Ornament, Zinc for Pediment. 

Over-Handed Knot . 

Outline of Turret . 

Outside Mitres . 

P 

Packing Stick . 

Paneled End Copings . 

Panel of Coping, Projection on. 

Panel Section. 

Panel Section, Pattern For. 

Panel, Sunk Frieze. 

Panels, Washboard . 

Paper Patterns, Weight For. 

Paper, Roofing. 


109 


209 

178 

87 

150' 

91 

202 

103 

84 

40 

55 

74 
93 

75 
12 
69 
73 
40 
79 

_L nj & 

13 


80 

161 

98 

12 

33 

15 

15 

8 

107 








































INDEX 


229 


PAGE 

Pattern for Arrow Head . 55 

Pattern for Crown Molding. 35 

Pattern for Deck. 35 

Pattern for Deck Molding. 35 

Pattern for Dentil Band. 30 

Pattern for Fascia Band. 35 

Pattern for Feather End of Vane. 55 

Pattern for Flutes. 49 

Pattern for Pillar. 104 

Pattern for Planceer . 30 

Pattern for Rays. 49' 

Pattern for Right Angled Mitre. 23 

Pattern for Top Section of Pediment. 44 

Pattern for Volute-Shaped Scroll. 184 

Patterns, Bracket . 28 

Patterns for a Finial. 51 

Patterns for a Segmental Section of a Pediment. 44 

Patterns for Panel Section. 33 

Patterns, Horizontal Mitre. 113 

Patterns, Mitre, Right Angle Return. 35 

Patterns of Turrets . 135 

Patterns, Paper, Weight For. 8 

Pattern, Spear Head . .. .. 55 

Patterns, Pediment . 39 

Pediment .15-16 

Pediment Center, Ornament For. 40 

Pediment Columns .:. 40 

Pediment Cornice . 205 

Pediment, Fastening Fluted Section to. 50 

Pediment Mitre. 127 

Pediment Patterns . 39 

Pediment Pilasters . 40 

Pediment Pillar. 40 

Pediment, Segmental Section of Pattern For. 44 

Pediment, Stamped Zinc Ornament For. 40 

Pediment, Top Section of Pattern For. 44 

Pegs for Hanging up Rope. 68- 

Pencil Point Attachment for Compass. 7 

Pendant, Fluted Sections of. 133 

Perfect Alignment Essential. 136 

Perspective Lineal . 1 

Pieces, Center . 

Pilasters, Iron For. -1^ 

Pilasters, Pediment . ^0 

Pillar Pattern . 















































230 


INDEX 


Pillars. 

Pillars, Ornamental Area of. 

Pillars, Pediment . 

Placing Small Brackets in Position. 

Planceer. 

Planceer, Brace for Fastening. 

Planceer, Pleating Fascia Band to. 

Planceer, Joining Brackets to. 

Planceer Pattern. 

Planes of Secondary Stratification in Slate 

Polygons, Properties of. 

Position of Ornamental Turrets. 

Preservation of Tools. 

Pressed and Cast Zinc, Specifications of. . 
Preventing Unnecessary Waste of Rope. . . 

Profile Above or Below Mitre Line. 

Profile of Foot Molding. 

Projection on Panel of Coping. 

Properties of Polygons. 

Protractor Scales . 

Pulley Blocks . 

Pulley Wheel.:. 

Pyramid, Four-Sided Frustrum of. 


PAGE 

103 

91 

40 

58 
12 
61 

59 

29 

30 
110 

9 

84 

68 

88 

77 

27 

24 

98 

9 

7 

82 

82 

51 


R 

Raised Work, Blocking Up..« . 152 

Raking Cornice . 126 

Raking Mitres . 13 

Raking Molding, Mitre Line For. 127 

Ray Pattern . 49 

Reading of Drawings. 13 

Reef Knot . 79 

Resistance, Crushing, of Slate. 109 

Ridge Coping of Dormer Window, Surface of. 91 

Ridge Cresting, Material For. 92 

Ridge Moldings. 13 

Right Angled Mitre Pattern. 23 

Right Angle Return Mitre Patterns. 35 

Ripper. 112 

Roofers, Cement .-. 112 

Roofing Felt . 107 

Roofing Paper . 107 

Roofing Stake . Ill 

Roof, Slating. 110 












































INDEX 


231 


S 


Rope Ends, Fastening. 

Rope, Management of . 

Rope, Pegs for Hanging Up. 

Rope, Preventing Unnecessary Waste of 

Ropes, Safe Load For. 

Ropes, Sisal, to Make Heavy. 

Rope-Strapped Block . 

Rope, to Splice. 

Rubber Erasers . 

Rules, Foot . 

Rules, Scale . 


PAGE 

80 

75 

68 

77 

83 

88 

83 

77 

8 

6 

6 


S 

Safe Load for Ropes. 83 

Sailors Knot, Slip, Clinch to. 79 

Scaffoldings, Bolts For. 65 

Scaffolding for Cornice Work...! . . 64 

Scale, Drawing to. 90 

Scale Rules . 6 

Scales, Degree . 7 

Scales, Protractor .'. 7 

Scope for Mechanical Generalship. 114 

Scroll Pattern, Volute Shaped. 184 

Scroll Work, Ornamental, Stamped. 303 

Section, Frieze. 13 

Section, Panel..*.13-15 

Section, Spiral .’. 188 

Sections for Staff of Finial. 175 

Sections for Vane of Finial. 175 

Securing Lever . 73 

Segmental Section of a Pediment Pattern for. 44 

Shears. 9 

Sheeting, Galvanized Iron, Specifications of. 88 

Sheets, Zinc, Heating. 74 

Side of Ornament Smoking. 74 

Sisal Ropes, Making Heavy. 88 

Size of Zinc Sheets. 30 

Sizes of Bar Iron. 19 

Slate, Classification of . 109 

Slate, Computing the Surface of. 108 

Slate, Crushing Resistance of. 109 

Slate, Necessary Qualities of. 109 

Slate, Planes of Secondary Stratification in. 110 

Slater’s Hammer. Ill 

Slater’s Knife . Ill 













































*232 


INDEX 


PAGE 

•Slate, Square of. 108 

Slate, Square of, Nails for Laying. 107 

Slate, Weight of . 108 

Slating . 105 

Slating a Roof . 110 

Slating, Specifications of. 88 

Sling, Bale. 82 

Sling, Butt. 82 

Sling, Cask. 82 

Slip-Clinch. 79 

Slip-Clinch to a Sailor’s Knot. 79 

’“Smoking” Side of Ornament.,. 74 

Snatch Block. 82 

Spear Head . 100 

Spear Head Pattern . 55 

Specifications of Conductors.. 87 

Specifications of Copper Work.. . 88 

Specifications of Cresting . 88 

Specifications of Felting . 89 

Specifications of Flashing. 89 

Specifications of Galvanized Iron Cornice. 87 

Specifications of Galvanized Iron Sheeting. 88 

Specifications of Gutters . 87 

Specifications of Metallic Skylights. 87 

Specifications of Ornamental Conductors and Heads. 87 

Specifications of Pressed and Cast Zinc. 88 

Specifications of Slating. 88 

Specifications of Tin, Galvanized Iron, Slate and Copper Work. ... 87 

Specifications of Tinning. 88 

Spiral Flutes . 156 

Spiral Section . 183 

Splicing a Worn Rope. 77 

Spun Zinc Ball. 54 

Square Bars for Cresting. 173 

Square Horizontal Mitres, Development of. 31 

Square Knot . 79 

Square Mitres . 13 

Square of Slate. 108 

Square of Slate, Nails for Laying. 107 

Squares, Tee . 5 

Square Tower, Covering of. 209 

Square, Wooden . 7 

Staff of Finial, Sections For. 175 

Staging, Brackets For.. 66 

Staging, Flooring For. 67 















































INDEX 


Staging for Cornice Work. 

Stake, Roofing . 

Stamped Ornamental Scroll Work. 

Stamped Zinc Ornament for Pediment. 

Stamping Ornaments, Machine For. 

Stamping Ornaments, Method of. 

Stays, Fastening to Galvanized Iron Surfaces 

Steel, Straight Edge. 

Stick, Packing. 

Stop Block. 

Straight Edge Steel . 

Stratification, Secondary Planes of, in Slate. . 

Stretchout for Gable Cornices . 

Stretchout of Envelope for Frustrum of Cone. 

Stretchouts Spiral, Development of. 

String Mold. 

Sunk Frieze Panel . 

Surface of Eidge Coping of Dormer Window 

Sweeps . 

Swivel, Four Way. 

Swivel Joint . 

Swivel Joint for Vane. 


T 

Table, Drawing . 

Tackle Blocks . 

Tackle Hoisting, Management of. 

Tacks, Thumb. 

Tees, Three Way. 

Tee Squares. 

Three Way Tees . 

Thumb Tacks. 

Timber Hitch . 

Timber Hitch and Half Hitch, Combination of 

Timbers, Knot for Binding. 

Tinning, Specifications of. 

Tools, Cutter’s.. 

Tools, Drawing . 

Tools, Preservation of . 

Top Section of Pediment, Pattern For. 

Tower, Front Elevation of. 

Tret Angle . 

Triangles, Axonometrical. 

Truss. 

Turret, Cap of . 


233 

PAGE 

64 

111 

202 

40 

69 

75 

62 

5 

80 

12 

5 

110 
189 
. 147 
159 
12 
15 
91 
7 
56 
56 
176 


1 

82 

75 

9 

72 

5 

72 

9 

81 

82 

79 

88 

3-5 

7 

68 

44 

197 

10 

10 

12 

151 













































234 


INDEX 


Turret, Curved Molding For. 

Turrets, Area of. 

Turrets, Material For. 

Turrets, Mitering With. 

Turrets, Moldings For. 

Turrets, Outline of. 

Turrets, Ornamental . 

Turrets, Ornamental, Position of. 

Turrets, Patterns of. 

U 

Fse of Farming Machine. 

Under Blocks, Material For. 

V 

Valleys. 

Vane, Arrow . 

Vane, Feather kind of Pattern For. . . . 

Vane of Finial, Sections For. 

Vane, Swivel Joint For. 

Volute. 

Volute Shaped Scroll, Pattern For. . . . 

W 

Washboard Panels. 

Waste, Allowance For. 

Waste of Rope, to Prevent. 

Waterman’s Knot . 

Weight for Paper Patterns. 

Weight of Copper. 

Weight of Nails Per Square of Slate. .. 

Weight of Slate. 

Wheel Pulley . 

Windows, Dormer, Material For. 

Wooden Braces . 

Wooden Bricks . 

Wooden Lookouts. 

Wooden Lookouts on Brackets. 

Wooden Square. 

Working Drawings of Cornice. 

Work of Cutter. 

Worn Rope, Splicing. 

Z 

Zinc Ball, Spun. 

Zinc Ornament for Pediment. 

Zinc, Pressed and Cast, Specifications of 

Zinc Sheets, Heating. 

Zinc Sheets, Size of. 


PAGE 

150 

91 

92 
122 
138 
122 
103 

84 

135 


48 

92 


94 

100 

55 

175 

176 

183 

184 


15 

92 

77 

81 

8 

19' 

107 

108 
82 
92 
63 
60 
59 

193 

7 

96 

3 

77 


54 

40 

88 

74 

20 





























































